Numba20

iTrader: (1)

FIrst off im going to apologize for my lack of knowledge about intricacies of internal motor mods. And also, ive googled this for the past couple hours. Almost found an answer... But for some reason guys respond to the question with questions not answers. So...

Im getting a stock LT1 t56 DD for cheap. Its not intended to b a money pit. But i want a little extra out of the motor. I want to know exaxtly what i'd need to buy/ modify in order to install the LT4 hot cam kit? Ive heard some have had trouble with the valve covers rubbing the rocker arms. And i know the 95+ lt1's have the different timing than previous motors. And they kit dont come with roller tappets. (dont know what those are) and some say the springs are weak that come in the kit. Also where is the cheapest place to get this kit? I think samtaylor.com has the kit for $489. Or is there a possible better set up (with stock bottom end) thats in the same price range. I plan on porting and polishing the Heads, Intake and TB. Upgraded exhaust, plugs and plug wires. Thats about it. So theres my intentions, im welcoming instructions, or suggested revisions.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Put the project off at least a year.

97z28K&N

Before you do a cam you should do full bolt ons so you can even get what you want out of the cam. Do intake, exhaust, and you will definitely want to upgrade your rockers/ springs. Doing that will let the cam breathe.

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

Okay i didnt want to get into the small detail, but ive got about 2000 in my tax return coming my way in a couple weeks. So to further explain, the car has long tubes, and im going to do true duals and do some 2 chamber race mufflers dumped just before the rear axle. I will be doing all these things with a small time frame. What i wanted to know was not what other modifications would optimize the cam, what other parts do i need to buy/install inorder for the cam to be put in and be able to start the car without serious damaging something internally. Ive continued researching and have found some info, but would like sone input with ppl who have experience / knowledge from this kit.

nitrous2fast

iTrader: (2)

4.10 gears will make it more fun.

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

Its a Daily driver. I need economy too. And spinnin aint winnin brother!

97z28K&N

True duals will hurt your performance unless you are pushing 500 HP

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Get a new GM oil pump drive and also a new GM timing set to go with the new cam.

I'm sorry but this is just not true.

97z28K&N

If you don't believe me then believe the physics.

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/exha...t-info-371087/

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

I thought since the car wasa 95 that the timing set was good to use? They changed it in 95. 93 & 94 used a different one which has to be swapped in order for the new cam to work. Or do you have a different underlying reason for the advice? Id like to try to understand and absorb everything i can here. And as far as the oil pump, is that a necessity for a "baby cam"? I wouldnt have thought the current one would be unsufficient seeing there is not a drastic change? But hey, i love learning new things!

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

Interesting... I must agree. I owned a LT1 Z28 and cut the SLP loudmoth system i had off, car lost lots of torque, i was running it cut off just behind the Y pipe until i got it to the shop. Had true duals made for it, and regained the TQ, but never seemed like all of quite came back. But if i loose a little low end tq ill be okay, its not a drag car. Lol just a DD that i intend on sweetening the exhaust note on a bit. Lol

97z28K&N

No doubt true duals sound good! If you decide to go true duals, try to stay under 3" so you keep as much low end *** possible. So much for that being "not true"...

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

If the engine has any kind of milage on it, changing the timing set during a cam change is a good idea. The size of the cam has no bearing on whether to change the oil pump drive stub. IMO it is desirable to have a new oil pump drive mate with the new cams drive gear to avoid potential gear wear issues. Sometimes even then the cam will wear the oil pump drive gear.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Read your own article, it says back pressure increasing torque is a myth. Only thing you would feel different would be until the computer adjusts for the increased flow. Needing back pressure for torque is total and COMPLETE MYTH. However, adding scavenging can increase power, by using the pressure of one exhaust pulse to pull out the next pulse.

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

So ive added a new timing set and oil pump to the wish list. Lol ive also decided to go with the cc306 cam, beehive springs (havent yet figured out which spring rate to get), upgrade to some hardened push rods, and go with the comp cams pro magnum 1.6 rrs. They have a slef aligning set so if i chose them would i also need alignmetplates then? Or no? Also ill want the 3/8 stud ones right? Not the 7/16 with stock heads that is. I also like to know if this set up compliments itself well and if there are any mismatches or leak links you see that i would need to correct. Keep in mind the intake, TB, and heads will be ported and polished. And finally tuned.

TexasTarnation

If your doing head work with bolt ons get a custom grind cam from loyd Elliot to maximize your gains and have a better DD!

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

Budget build... Only looking spend around $1000 total on the motor. + labor. But i will be calling him for my ls1 383 build.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Are you confusing the oil pump drive with the oil pump? The oil pump drive bolts into the lifter valley. Because GM used most of the traditional SBC architecture when they designed the LT1 it needs what is essentially the bottom of a regular distributor to drive the oil pump drive shaft.
You don't need to change the oil pump itself when replacing the camshaft.

Pick up this book, it covers all the basics and is worth the money.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hpb-hp1393/overview/

97z28K&N

I never said anything about back pressure reducing torque so maybe you should go back and reread my posts.

nitrous2fast

iTrader: (2)

It's a t56 with a second overdrive.