Jc803

iTrader: (2)

First I'd like to know what cross member I need. Its a 96 LT1 w/T56 and line lock going to turbo LQ4 with 4l80e.

Would I need the LT1 with 4l80e x member
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=325

Or the LS1 with 4l80e x member
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=326

And if I do need the LS1 x member, then could I use the LS1 with 4l80e and torque arm relocation x member
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=products&productid=336

Also could someone explain what the different torque converter stalls actually mean. Just from what little common sense I have I'm thinking a 3500 stall for example means it wont enguage till 3500 rpms, and after you get moving then the lock solenoid will keep it from free spinning after a certain mph even if you're under 3500 rpm. Is that about right? What stall speed are you guys using on turbo builds?

And for the trans lock, what exactly is the point of this. I have a front wheel line lock. Say I have a 3500 stall, and I'm using the line lock to keep from rolling, why would I want a trans brake?

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

Also if it helps any I'll be using 3.42 gears and everything that is not absolutely needed has been removed for weight reduction. I'll be shooting for 550rwhp, 700 eventually.

SF 1HOTLS1

iTrader: (24)

call either yank, or FTI for a converter and tell them what your setup is. they will lead you in the right direction.

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

can anyone explain if i need a trans brake even though i already have a line lock. I dont know if I understand completely but it seems as if I wouldnt need one

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

A line lock will only get you so far eventually the motor will over power it. With a trans brake the solenoid valve will actually lock the transmission against itself in fwd and rev at the same time so you can load the engine and converter without moving until you release the actuator button. You don't NEED a trans brake but it will help a lot with launching at the track.

justin hover

With the stock stall 1800rpm, as soon as you touch the gas pedal you start moving. With a 3500 stall you, you just have to push the gas pedal in alittle harder/a few more rpms to get moving. Theirs a couple vids on YouTube, check those out...it'll make more sense after you whatch them

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys, that sort of what I was thinking just making sure.

So say I get a 3,500 stall, then I should be able to use the line lock to hold it at like 3,000-3,500 safely without any movement right? And in that case I wouldnt need a trans brake if I only want to launch around 3000-3500 rpm right?

FTICONVERTERS

iTrader: (3)

If we build a 3500 converter then it will go to 3500 when a transbrake is used. It will most likely not reach that number with a line lock

Greg

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

a line lock won't hold to 3500,the drivetrain will be pushing thru the brakes,line lock would be used in the burnout box to warm the tires. the transbrake will be used for launching at the line. a transbrake affects the driveline like a 6speed does,not too friendly on the little 10 bolts,break,break,break.

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the great info guys. Its all pretty clear now. But I'm hoping someone can answer this question for me that I've asked on three other threads and no one knows.

If I get a 4l80e with the LQ4 dropout, what trans crossmember do I need from BMR, the LT1/4l80e, or the LS1/4l80e. I have a 96 Z

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

Idk but I've read the BMR crossmembers suck. Call Midwest Chassis and tell them about your combo. I bet their piece is cheaper too.

Jc803

iTrader: (2)

Sounds great, will do

shepss217

iTrader: (5)

give yank a call, most likely will set you up with like a 4,000 stall pro series converter

Gray Ghost Silverado

iTrader: (1)

I'm just gonna throw in my .02

Do the T-Brake. You're welcome.