Isolde

iTrader: (4)

Okay, I has this perfectly goof car that was available with optional AWD. But the 222-HP 3.0L V6 is ruined, as these engines FREQUENTLY do, and this version of the Mitsubishi 6G72 wasn't used in any other chassis.
Plus the car comes on factory 16x8" wheels and easily fits 245/50R16 drag radials at all 4 corners.
Best of all, I got the car with no rust, no crash damage, and a clear title for $300.
I'm thinking a 5.3 to make a start.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

May be a good candidate for an LS4. Not sure how you'd get the AWD to work though.

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

Thank you.
You hit on the exact point I'm stuck on. Do I use the twin turbo 3.0's 5-speed and transfer case and front axles, or do I turn the engine 90* and borrow an Astro AWD TC like the Syclone / Typhoon, with custom axles and custom rear driveshaft? Which gives mis-matched diff gearing front-to-rear.
But the rear 8.8 from a Mustang Cobra offers me 3.08:1 or 3.73:1 gearing I can get for a Syclone-style 7.25" front diff, which has the option of a low-cost Lock-Right, or the stronger 8.25" from a K1500, but I can't find any traction diffs for that. The K3500s 9.25' front had lots of diffs, but I don't need that monster even if it does fit, and it has no 3.08:1 gears that I can find.
So I can have a way-overgeared engine swap, or I can gave a decent-MPG drivetrain swap.
Whatever happens, I need to get the ruined V6 out of the engine bay this weekend. Then I can measure to see which might fit easier.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

If the Mitsubishi stuff can handle the power, maybe an adapter plate would be the easiest way to go about it. I think they had around 300hp in TT form, so it shouldn't be too much to handle an LS4.

If you're up to the task, a full drivetrain swap would be much cooler. And it would be RWD biased, rather than FWD biased.

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

Well, I currently have no TC and no rear driveline, but I know where there's a T-boned '96 Astro AWD with a bad 4L60E, but the TC and front diff should be salvageable.
To me there's some temptation to try for a solid 8.8" axle, especially since the cost of 31-spline axles with a 5-on 4.5" lug pattern is so cheap. That's the lug pattern of these wheels. But since I owned and drove my old '85 300ZX, my first IRS car, I don't want a solid axle if IRS is practical.
I did some spreadsheets, and for a non-turbo 4.8L I like a 4L60E with 3.73:1, but for a ported, cammed, and turbocharged build I like a 4L80E with 3.08:1
I'm thinking run it non-turbo and RWD while gathering everything else.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

If you want IRS, maybe look at the R200 setup from an S13? The shortnose R200 should have plenty of gearing options and is pretty stout from what I hear. Entire subframes are fairly cheap from what I see (Z31 300ZX guys have been swapping to S13 stuff for a while now). 5-lug hubs will be on 5x114.3mm (4.5") bolt pattern. 5 lug hubs and an LSD will be the expensive parts.

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

Wow! I had no idea. I rather liked the IRS under my Z31, I can't see changing it out for anything else since it's plenty strong even when lightened, there are poly bushings available, and the camber gain is actually too good, needing slight correction.
No, I wasn't clear enough. I have no problem with the IRS from a TT AWD Stealth / 3000GT, but I'd swap the Mitsu rear diff for a Ford 8.8" diff for the 3.08:1 rear gearing, then need hybrid halfshafts. Same problem with the Chevy Astro 7.25" 3.08:1 front diff. need custom axles to connect that to my Mitsu-splined hubs.
The Cobra 8.8 was aluminum-housed, where the T-Bird version it's based on was iron-housed. Plus there are more designs of diffs for the ford 8.8 than for any import, and every one of the 8.8 diffs that isn't driver-selectable is better priced for what you get than any of the import options. I'm leaning toward an Auburn or a Lock-Right, or maybe trying a TrueTrac.
This afternoon I start on removing the V6, so pics tonight or tomorrow morning.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

If you had the cobra diff in mind you would be better off with a Thunderbird / Cougar / Mark VIII 8.8 unit because they are plentiful in salvage yards. Same internals, tons of available ratios (all the 8.8 solid axle ratios fit) and optional limited slip units factory and aftermarket. If you take the entire cradle you can get them with rear disk brakes. Only problem is the bolt pattern is 5 x 4.25, but there are people who drill them out for other patterns.

i r teh noobz

iTrader: (4)

I completely forgot about the 8.8 IRS. That should be way easier than swapping the entire subframe.

Who makes the Mitsubishi diff? The Subaru rears are R180s if I remember correctly. Maybe the Mitsubishi unit is also an R180? Pretty sure they came in the older Datsuns as well. That might open up more gearing options for the factory unit.

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

pic-posting after church. I over-slept.

Isolde

iTrader: (4)

I didn't get the engine out, but I'm showing why, and I was able to determine that the LSx will easily fit in a RWD orientation.

99MUSTANG5.3L

I think this would be a cool swap in RWD config with the Cobra IRS.

91StealthTT

I have been seriously thinking about doing this same swap with an ls1 for so many reasons. I say go for it! The outcome would make for one seriously fun car.

supercharged024

You need to look at the guy putting the LS4 from a front drive impala SS into his fiero. I'm sure it will be much easier to have an adapter made to mount the engine to your existing drivetrain. You can take an off the shelf flywheel meant for a V6 camaro, have it machined to fit the crank flange of the LS4. So you can keep your AWD.

91StealthTT

AWD is overrated in my opinion. The added weight and complex parts that tend to break just isn't worth it to me. At least for how I intend to use my car. (not drifting lol)

supercharged024

Sure AWD is sometimes overrated but for ease of installation if all you have to do is adapt the Ls4 engine to the restof the drivetrain that makes the swap a little easier.