Might be coming to the dark side.. T56 to 80e!
#1
Might be coming to the dark side.. T56 to 80e!
ok, after some thinking and searching around, i think ive decided to go auto....somewhat anyway. Im currently rebuilding the car. I pay off the new motor in a couple of weeks which is an AES 390, and ive custom made a twin turbo kit. Im shooting for 1000rwhp. and itll be 95% street driven. I've always loved shifting gears, makes me feel more in cintrol and its more fun to me than an auto. But, im going to be making some big power and need something strong enough to handle it. my only choice for a T56 is a T56 Magnum, which run about $5000, plus another $1400 for a clutch, and thats ******* ridiculous. since im like to shift, i think ive decided to go with a Stage 4 4l80e w/ full manual shift, forward style with a D3 trans brake for $3550. its built to handle 1000hp/tq.. my questions though...
1. Is there a list or write up or anything that i can use for this swap?
2. Being a manual valve body, is there still going to be computer controlled components in the tranny that will need a special harness/adapters and whatnot?
3. i want to go with a 245mm Circle D triple disc converter, but im stuck on what size stall to go with. Any input here as well?
4. I have a PST 3.5" drive shaft going to a MWC 9" what needs to be done here.
5.do i HAVE to swap pedals? I dont mind having a non-working clutch pedal.
Any tips or comments?
thanks!
1. Is there a list or write up or anything that i can use for this swap?
2. Being a manual valve body, is there still going to be computer controlled components in the tranny that will need a special harness/adapters and whatnot?
3. i want to go with a 245mm Circle D triple disc converter, but im stuck on what size stall to go with. Any input here as well?
4. I have a PST 3.5" drive shaft going to a MWC 9" what needs to be done here.
5.do i HAVE to swap pedals? I dont mind having a non-working clutch pedal.
Any tips or comments?
thanks!
#2
12 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
You do not have to swap pedals. In fact some people even like the dead clutch pedal being there. You can actually use it as an actuating pedal for any number of things: line lock, trans brake, etc. You would just use the clutch switch to actuate that certain electronic.
#5
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
I pulled out my T-56 for a 80e swap also. Just havent had time to put the tranny for sale and buy a 80e. I removed my clutch pedal but might put it back on since it could be usefull for another things. As far as the electronic wiring goes youll need the 80e wiring, im sure there is a write up about this.
#6
talked to jakes performance. apparently there isnt much wiring for the manual valve bidy setup. Just from the clutch switch to the shifter for reverse lights, and gotta wire in neutral safety switch plus your lockout switch on ur shifter. I gues ill be going with a Stage 3 full manual 80E. i can do thise set for like $1000-1200 less than what the manual setup was gonna run me, plus i wont go through clutches like crazy and drop $1400 every time i have too replace one. Im not going to buy a trans brake since im not gonna really be going to the track much. I gotta get a new yoke for my driveshaft, crossmember, and the trans cooler, which is like $200 for evreything. And i have to decide on a shifter. As far as the clutch pedal, i may rewire my line lock to it, Jake said most guys just tuck it under the carpet.
Do you have to use an A4 Center console with a MVB 80E? or can I use my M6 one? i need to read the stickies, i didnt even think about it. sorry if this the 1,000,000th time this has been asked..
Do you have to use an A4 Center console with a MVB 80E? or can I use my M6 one? i need to read the stickies, i didnt even think about it. sorry if this the 1,000,000th time this has been asked..
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#10
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
talked to jakes performance. apparently there isnt much wiring for the manual valve bidy setup. Just from the clutch switch to the shifter for reverse lights, and gotta wire in neutral safety switch plus your lockout switch on ur shifter. I gues ill be going with a Stage 3 full manual 80E. i can do thise set for like $1000-1200 less than what the manual setup was gonna run me, plus i wont go through clutches like crazy and drop $1400 every time i have too replace one. Im not going to buy a trans brake since im not gonna really be going to the track much. I gotta get a new yoke for my driveshaft, crossmember, and the trans cooler, which is like $200 for evreything. And i have to decide on a shifter. As far as the clutch pedal, i may rewire my line lock to it, Jake said most guys just tuck it under the carpet.
Do you have to use an A4 Center console with a MVB 80E? or can I use my M6 one? i need to read the stickies, i didnt even think about it. sorry if this the 1,000,000th time this has been asked..
Do you have to use an A4 Center console with a MVB 80E? or can I use my M6 one? i need to read the stickies, i didnt even think about it. sorry if this the 1,000,000th time this has been asked..
#11
I decided to ditch the T56 when I was planning my turbo build. The biggest factors in my decision were built T56's were expensive, and they'd still break. The second was that if I was going to spend all the money on a turbo build, I didn't want to be leaving ET on the table because I stuck banging the gears manually.
I found a 4L80e locally (wasn't aware of Jake's transmissions at the time), bought Jake's Performance rebuilt kit, and paid a local guy to do the overhaul. The T56 in my car was still low mileage and mechanically perfect so I was able to get a pretty decent price for it.
I probably only came $800 out of pocket after selling my T56, and that's including the Circle D torque converter. Of course there are a bunch of other things to buy (pedals, shifter, center console, etc) but I was able to sell all my M6 parts to fund most of that. So in the end, I had a transmission that could handle far more power, would squeeze every bit of ET out of the car, and didn't break the bank doing it.
I found a 4L80e locally (wasn't aware of Jake's transmissions at the time), bought Jake's Performance rebuilt kit, and paid a local guy to do the overhaul. The T56 in my car was still low mileage and mechanically perfect so I was able to get a pretty decent price for it.
I probably only came $800 out of pocket after selling my T56, and that's including the Circle D torque converter. Of course there are a bunch of other things to buy (pedals, shifter, center console, etc) but I was able to sell all my M6 parts to fund most of that. So in the end, I had a transmission that could handle far more power, would squeeze every bit of ET out of the car, and didn't break the bank doing it.
#13
I don't remember how much the rebuild kit was, it's been at least a year and probably closer to two years since I bought it. It's on the Jake's Performance site for $750. My 4L80e is a 1993 unit, but the rebuild kit I purchased from Jake had everything needed to convert it to the later style electronics.
#15
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
I don't remember how much the rebuild kit was, it's been at least a year and probably closer to two years since I bought it. It's on the Jake's Performance site for $750. My 4L80e is a 1993 unit, but the rebuild kit I purchased from Jake had everything needed to convert it to the later style electronics.
#16
TECH Resident
iTrader: (4)
Allout, if you're ordering from Jake's, it won't be a MVB. The valve body itself will be like a stock auto shifting valve body. You will have a "little black box" that connects to the internal wiring harness via the external port that is simple to wire up (2 wires in your case, no TB) and that is what gives you the full manual control
As for the rebuild kits, the parts in the kits themselves do not update any of the electronics. They are new replacement shift solenoids, a pressure manifold switch and an internal wiring harness.
As for the rebuild kits, the parts in the kits themselves do not update any of the electronics. They are new replacement shift solenoids, a pressure manifold switch and an internal wiring harness.
#17
Allout, if you're ordering from Jake's, it won't be a MVB. The valve body itself will be like a stock auto shifting valve body. You will have a "little black box" that connects to the internal wiring harness via the external port that is simple to wire up (2 wires in your case, no TB) and that is what gives you the full manual control
As for the rebuild kits, the parts in the kits themselves do not update any of the electronics. They are new replacement shift solenoids, a pressure manifold switch and an internal wiring harness.
As for the rebuild kits, the parts in the kits themselves do not update any of the electronics. They are new replacement shift solenoids, a pressure manifold switch and an internal wiring harness.
n e way, i think ive decided to just go full auto and say **** shifting all together lol.. im still foggy as hell on the wiring though. some ppl say i need the t56 to 80e harness along with a segment harness? iv essen u only need a segment harness and re pin the other stuff? ive seen ppl buying A4 engine harnesses... uggg i hate wiring!! is the segment harness and the t56 to 80e harness the same thing? i was under the impression you only need the speartech harness to go from a T56 to 80e... fml
also im stuck on which converter to buy. im gonig to go with a circle D 258mm triple disc converter. but i dont know what RPM to buy. Circle D recommended a 3200rpm, and AES recommended i go with a tighter converter, like a 2500-2700. so im clueless in that area too..