Seeking Advice, 1997 Z28 LT1
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Seeking Advice, 1997 Z28 LT1
Well everyone, it's getting to be that time of the year again. Spring is right around the corner here in Michigan and that means it's soon time to get my camaro out of storage.
Advice that I am seeking would be where to go with my car. It's been in my families possession now for 4 years, and it currently has about 170,xxx miles on her. My question is should I take the motor out and send it to a machine shop to have the block bored and honed to start a rebuild, or should I just purchase a new motor out of another F-Body LT1. My Dad and I have been clashing heads on what the best option would be. We are also currently building a 383 Stroker that he is dropping in an S10.
What do the fellow LT1 heads recommend we do?
Advice that I am seeking would be where to go with my car. It's been in my families possession now for 4 years, and it currently has about 170,xxx miles on her. My question is should I take the motor out and send it to a machine shop to have the block bored and honed to start a rebuild, or should I just purchase a new motor out of another F-Body LT1. My Dad and I have been clashing heads on what the best option would be. We are also currently building a 383 Stroker that he is dropping in an S10.
What do the fellow LT1 heads recommend we do?
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No issues what soever with the motor. What I am wondering is should I replace anything before adding mods/bolt ons. Everything is stock on the car aside from a K&N Cold air intake and the head gasket was replaced in 2010. Looking to add a little more power to it. Money isn't too big of an issue, but I won't be doing anything crazy either. Just wanting to breathe a little fresh air into her.
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I agree with the others on if it aint broke dont fix it. YET. The LT1 is a durable motor with the proper care and matinence. My 2 cents would be run it till she pops. Then yank it out, port the heads, hone the block, cam the hell outta it and have a bad *** motor. Now if your trying to get some more HP out of it for the time being, spray it. This will also help it along in the countdown to your rebuilding time as well.
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Any mods that anyone would recommend for a boost in performance? Like I said earlier I'm not expecting to add a few bolt ons and gain 100+hp, just looking to get a little more action. It is a 6spd manual, forgot to state that earlier.
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After that if you want some more you can throw a cam in there.
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I've always considered the 4.10 gears, my brother had them in his 02 WS6. As far as exhaust goes, the guy before us had custom exhaust built for the car, hooked to a butterfly valve which controls the flow from either straight off the headers or back to a magnaflow muffler. Any specific recommendations on a tune and headers? Thanks for the feedback.
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#8
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I've always considered the 4.10 gears, my brother had them in his 02 WS6. As far as exhaust goes, the guy before us had custom exhaust built for the car, hooked to a butterfly valve which controls the flow from either straight off the headers or back to a magnaflow muffler. Any specific recommendations on a tune and headers? Thanks for the feedback.
Pacesetter makes decent ones and they come with a y-pipe and are fairly priced for ceramic.
Kooks makes nice headers too but they are very expensive.
People have said good things about the Ebay OBX headers too.
If you have a reputable dyno shop nearby, have it dyno tuned. Or send you PCM to PCMforless and have a mail order bolt-on tune done.
#10
^^^+1 Thats exactly what i did with my 94z. Had 155+ on it before i yanked motor and built mine---had a 12bolt w 4:11's full exhaust LT's tune etc and car ran 13.3 for me w bad 60 times.. Thats the same route i went and was happy for a few yrs.
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So it does have headers? Or are you referring to the stock exhaust manifolds as headers? Depends how much you want to spend. I have Ceramic coated Dynatech LTs on my car, they fit absolutely perfect and don't rub on anything. They are expensive but for good reason and you also have to buy the collectors seperate too which sucks. You'll have to have a custom Y-pipe made up for them though.
Pacesetter makes decent ones and they come with a y-pipe and are fairly priced for ceramic.
Kooks makes nice headers too but they are very expensive.
People have said good things about the Ebay OBX headers too.
If you have a reputable dyno shop nearby, have it dyno tuned. Or send you PCM to PCMforless and have a mail order bolt-on tune done.
Pacesetter makes decent ones and they come with a y-pipe and are fairly priced for ceramic.
Kooks makes nice headers too but they are very expensive.
People have said good things about the Ebay OBX headers too.
If you have a reputable dyno shop nearby, have it dyno tuned. Or send you PCM to PCMforless and have a mail order bolt-on tune done.
#12
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If I'm not mistaken, I cannot remember off the top of my head but I belive it has the stock exhaust manifolds as headers. The guy essentially had a custom exhaust built on the car from the manifold back so he could run the butterfly valve setup. (He had a baby at home so he need to control when the exhaust could be loud and quieter) Essentially what was the cost for your headers setup? Also in regards to the tuning of the PCM, would it be beneficial to spend the $175 to have it sent out and tuned if I am only doing minimal mods to the car? I know it says 10-40hp gain depending on your setup. With doing what you said, could i be looking at a gain of 10-40hp with the headers, CAI, PCM tune? Thanks.
A tune is always beneficial, especially after some bolt-ons. A dyno tune will run you $300+ but it will be more accurate.
Do you have emissions checks? If not, get rid of the AIR pump when you do the headers. The tune will get rid of your SES light that will come on after you delete it as well as deleting the rear O2 sensors since you have a '97.
I have a little over $1,000 in my exhaust setup and that was with a used catback. You can do it cheaper since you have the catback already.
Headers $450 (used but never installed), Y-pipe $200, SLP LM1 $150, Collectors $220.
I gained about 15 HP on the stock tune after that. I have a tune now but it could be better I think.
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Okay so it has stock manifolds. Get those off and get some Long Tubes! You can sell your stock manifolds for 50-100 bucks to guys who run Hobby Stock cars. Apparently they're popular for them. I got $75 out of mine. Anyways...
A tune is always beneficial, especially after some bolt-ons. A dyno tune will run you $300+ but it will be more accurate.
Do you have emissions checks? If not, get rid of the AIR pump when you do the headers. The tune will get rid of your SES light that will come on after you delete it as well as deleting the rear O2 sensors since you have a '97.
I have a little over $1,000 in my exhaust setup and that was with a used catback. You can do it cheaper since you have the catback already.
Headers $450 (used but never installed), Y-pipe $200, SLP LM1 $150, Collectors $220.
I gained about 15 HP on the stock tune after that. I have a tune now but it could be better I think.
A tune is always beneficial, especially after some bolt-ons. A dyno tune will run you $300+ but it will be more accurate.
Do you have emissions checks? If not, get rid of the AIR pump when you do the headers. The tune will get rid of your SES light that will come on after you delete it as well as deleting the rear O2 sensors since you have a '97.
I have a little over $1,000 in my exhaust setup and that was with a used catback. You can do it cheaper since you have the catback already.
Headers $450 (used but never installed), Y-pipe $200, SLP LM1 $150, Collectors $220.
I gained about 15 HP on the stock tune after that. I have a tune now but it could be better I think.
#14
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I've found Hooker Headers on JEGS website. The Super Competition Headers with 1.75"x30" Primary Tubes and 3"x10". It is the Silver Ceramic Metallic coating. http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker+Headers...231-1/10002/-1. They do offer a non-ceramic coating for about $200 cheaper. The Y pipe that fits the kit is $225.00. I would assume it is worth it in the long run to spend the extra cash on getting the ceramic coated headers is my best option? Just want to make sure, if I am going to invest money into the car I want to make sure it is going to last. Thoughts?
Don't forget also, you have to get O2 sensor extensions when you get the LTs. The placement of the sensor is moved down about a foot from the original location. You can either make them or there are kits too. Pretty simple.
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While you're deleting the AIR pump, I would delete the EGR also. You can get some cheap block off plates for those or you can easily make your own. It's not required to get rid of EGR but it's just more junk out of the way.
The EGR and the AIR tube from the stock manifolds go into the back of the intake manifold if you didnt know also.
You will be surprised how much more room there is on these cars with the stock junk out of the way haha.
The EGR and the AIR tube from the stock manifolds go into the back of the intake manifold if you didnt know also.
You will be surprised how much more room there is on these cars with the stock junk out of the way haha.
#16
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After all that, get a nice CAI, then I'd get your gears and then tune to compensate for the exhaust, deletes, and gear change. It will make a world of difference.
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Thanks so much for the info Formula, just got one final questions for ya. Where did you purchase your hurst short throw kit for your Trans? I have had a tough time finding one online. Whats the ease of an install on that? Am I better off just having my shop guy throw it in for me?
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I've found Hooker Headers on JEGS website. The Super Competition Headers with 1.75"x30" Primary Tubes and 3"x10". It is the Silver Ceramic Metallic coating. http://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker+Headers...231-1/10002/-1. They do offer a non-ceramic coating for about $200 cheaper. The Y pipe that fits the kit is $225.00. I would assume it is worth it in the long run to spend the extra cash on getting the ceramic coated headers is my best option? Just want to make sure, if I am going to invest money into the car I want to make sure it is going to last. Thoughts?