ceta4zng

So I finished my Kooks LT install - went great. Took the car out for a test drive. First drive in 3+ months. Car ran great, no codes, drove, turned, shifted, stopped just fine.

So I park it on my KWIK-LIFT (its one of those drive on lifts - you drive up the ramps, jack up the back, fold down the legs and the car is like 3 ft in the air) in the ramp-like position (front in the air, back of lift on the ground). So I leave it like that to change the fuel filter and then lower the ramp for good for the rest of the season.

As I get in the car to drive it off the ramp, the clutch pedal is against the floorboard - but with pressure. So I get underneath - nothing looks amiss, no leaks. I get back in the car and feel the clutch pedal with my hand - I pull on it and it pops back into normal position - I sit in the seat, pedal feels fine. Pumps up and down just fine.

Anybody ever seen this - was it I was parked on an incline and put it in second gear to keep it from rolling and the pedal just hung up there? I've never seen this before in my years of driving manual transmissions. Should I worry about this?

Thanks for any input in advance

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

Did you route the CSC feed line too close to the headers? Be sure it is not picking up too much heat.( boiling the fluid)

ceta4zng

but this happened after the car was parked for 24 hours. Plus there was still pressure - it was just about 2 inches of travel. I will check if the pedal just got hung up on something.

Thanks for the suggestion - I will go back and check that CSC feed.

ceta4zng

looked at the fluid last night - it is black. Probably 11 year old brake fluid in there and then the extra heat from the headers (although the headers are not THAT close to the feed line) caused the boil. I will flush, bleed and figure a way to insulate the line somehow. Thanks for the input.

calhoon

iTrader: (6)

I know the CTS-V has a sleeve that fits over the line to reflect heat. There may be others out there.

ceta4zng

thanks - I'm going to try that as well - after I get the new fluid in. My mechanic/friend suggested the seals may be shot and to change out the master and slave. I think that is a little drastic right now - I will start with the easy stuff and see how it goes.

2000Hawk#317

iTrader: (3)

I know what happened...well maybe...lol.... there's a two piece rod that connects to your master. The top portion (with the eyelet that goes to pedal) and the rod (that runs to the piston inside the master). What happened to mine is that the two "crimps" on the eyelet portion that hold the rod in place slipped down onto the rod. Easy fix...if you weld or know someone... Pull the master, pull the plastic gromit like eyelet off the metal eyelet, take two vice grips and pull them apart while twisting....you will see where it has been sliding down the rod, once fully extended (they will not come apart), make a mark with marker, place on table vice, and weld together. Both materials are the same and not aluminum so it will weld fine. While your at it, do drill mod...install, bleed, enjoy life again! BAM.... lol :-)

2000Hawk#317

iTrader: (3)

If someone sends me a broke master, I will do a write up and post it. I will take some pics tomorrow as well to show you. One picture of what I am talking about and you will know.

2000Hawk#317

iTrader: (3)

Did that help?

ceta4zng

thanks - the previous two drives after the fluid flush have been fine - pedal doesn't stick and feels as it has for the past 3 years. I am keeping an eye on it and not doing anything drastic (like throwing parts at it or tearing anything apart) just yet until I can drive the car a little more. Should the time come when it starts acting up again, I will look check out your suggestion and writeup.