AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

01 WS6 M6 with 55K miles.

228/236 588/595 XER 112+3
Weiand intake (I know...but it was already on the car when I bought it)
Hedman headers with off road ypipe
Monster Stage I triple disc (sitting in a box)

I have a now complete P1SC fbody kit with 3.5" IC and 6 rib system already.
It was missing the radiator hold down, large splash shields and hardware, cruise control and AIR brackets, Air filter and hat tubing, as well as the single large bolt that secures the head unit to the J bracket.
The plenum has been modified to accept the big red bypass, so I need to figure out how to cap off the J tube and air filter hat since those ports won't be needed; there are 2 pieces of generic steel pipe that may have been used instead of the j pipe.

Also the metal Y tube that connects the head unit to the intercoolers looks strange; the straight/merged end of the pipe looks too long as if it would extend past the head unit, although I haven't mounted the kit yet. This one piece appears to belong to a corvette kit.

I plan to keep the 6 rib system for now as I only am shooting for about 500rwhp at first. I also plan to upgrade the intercooler system at a later time, but I will use what I have for now.

I will purchase the Lonnies dual in-tank pump kit. I also plan to use Seimen 60 lb injectors immediately.

...I've done my share of searching, and still do, but wanted to post my build and ask a few qustions in the meantime.


My questions:

1) Regarding capping off the bypass system ports on the J pipe and air filter hat: were the extra 2 pieces of generic steel pipe(see MY IC SETUP PIC) used for this purpose? If so, what about capping off the air filter hat?

2) Can anyone with a 3.5 IC kit confirm that their Metal Y Pipe looks like mine? Or has anyone ever seen one like this?

3) Is my fuel system adequate? Are 60 lb injectors appropriate at this point?

4) Anyone else have rubber IC hose damage from bottoming out like mine? See pic.

5) Anything else I'm missing? (I plan to add an alkycontrol kit later)


MY INTERCOOLER SET UP:


BRUTESPEED PIC:


EXTRA LONG(?) METAL Y PIPE:


MISSING BOLT:


RUBBER HOSE DAMAGE:

2002 T/A

Yikes, don't want to sound like an ***, but that's why I bought new! 38lbs are good for 7 maybe 8 psi. Looks like the plumbing was too long to start and that's where the damage is from? I do have a brand new external pump in the bag, but in tank is for sure better. What about the upper and lower brackets that the fan mounts to?

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

I know what you mean about buying new. I had a chance to, but I bought a Civic as a daily driver instead.

Yeah, I need the 2 piece fan shroud assembly. It's gonna be about $700 to finish off the kit, not including the fuel set up.

You said 38 lbs is good for 7-8 lbs, which is probably the amount of boost I'll end up doing (or whatever psi gets me around 500 rwhp reasonably without exceeding my fuel capabilities). But with my pre-existing mods, I assume that I'll need more than 38 lb injectors. Texas speed sells FIC 50 lb injectors that state you only have to change the IFR, which would be one less thing to tune. I wonder if 60 lb Siemen injectors will be too big for my current engine mods and therefore cause idle tuning problems?

Also, I don't see why I couldn't cut off a little of the metal y pipe if needed, right?

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Well I believe the metal y pipe belongs to a C5 dual intercooler set up. I'm cutting that joker shorter most likely.

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

I've been told by a vendor that the Bosch 52# (at 43psi) are the way to go. I'm guessing they would flow around 62#'s on the LS1 fuel rail?

steelgraygtp

iTrader: (12)

I have a pro charger shroud and fan that I don't need. I'll sell it to you. Pm me if you're interested. My ypipe is a lot shorter than the one you have too.

I8UR4RD

iTrader: (16)

7-8 lbs is going to need 60lb bud. promise.

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Aw dang, 60 lbs? Don't they flow 72lbs on a LS1 fuel rail? Even if they come with basic tune data, and if I tune the injectors on top of that, will I have idle problems with SD 60 lb injectors in a LS1 with only a cam, intake manifold, and long tube headers?

RickyB0bby

iTrader: (3)

I would recommend the Siemens 60lb injectors. If you are just shooting for 500 wheel, you could also use LS3 42# injectors, and you can pick up a set on here for around $100. Also the Siemens 60# injectors make it a lot easier to tune, and may save you some money when it comes time to tune it.

My Y-pipe is different than yours, I believe that you have the set up for a Corvette. On the F-Bodys, the superchargers are mounted on the drivers side and a bit lower on the front of the engine, and backwards, making them reverse rotation I believe. On the Corvette's they are mounted more towards the top of the drive assembly on the passenger side. I would check to make sure you have the reverse rotation head unit as well, this could be a huge problem. (I'm not 100% sure that the head units are different, I just remember reading somewhere that F-Body head units are reverse rotation from all others.

The bottom of your piping that is damaged appears to be from the front end bottoming out, or maybe being parked on top of a curb a few times. It sits a bit higher in the F-Bodys, so just be careful, and you shouldn't be having any problem. (Until you upgrade the rear end and make more power and start doing wheelies, )

The reason that you are missing that 5th allen head bolt is because it is a B*TCH to get it in when installing the procharger to the bracket while the bracket is already mounted on the car. The bolt is right f*cking in front of the front sway bar, leaving you about 1/2 an inch to get an allen wrench on it, and because of this, a lot of lazy people just leave it out. What I did to get it in was put a 2/4 piece on the oil pan so the pressure would spread evenly, and jacked up the engine about an inch higher, giving myself a little more room to get it in.

You will be fine with a single Walbro 255 for now, they will support up to around 600. But if you do any other mods, you will need to either use a Aeromotive 340 or a twin fuel pump set up with one one a hobbs switch, which is what I'm doing.

For the J tube and the hat, most auto parts stores sell caps that should fit and can be hose clamped on and will hold in the boost pressure with no problem.

Hope I gave ya some help. I just installed mine not too long ago (P1sc on a 2001 Trans Am), and just went through all of this, so feel free to PM me if you have any more questions.

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the informative reply RickyB0bby. Nice!

I have purchased a Procharger fan and shroud assembly from Steelgraygtp.

I guess I'm going to get the correct Metal Y pipe.

I have checked the procharger PDF catalog and my rotation is reverse, as it should be. The clocking is correct, if you assume that the oil slinger is in the same position as the oil drain plug.

So I'm also getting Siemen Deka 60 lb injectors and a dual in tank set up right off the bat. Anyone know of any vendors that include tune data with these injectors? I know Greg Banish has some proprietary tune data on these...That's not what I'm requesting. Surely some vendor has done some tuning with them. Thanks!

tilly

iTrader: (5)

I just finished putting together my father's setup, the car made 540hp/480ft-lbs through a 10-bolt and t-56. I have FLP long tubes and y-pipe through a flowmaster muffler. I ran bosh green top 42lb injectors backed with a single 255. The duty cycle was at 80% to 85%. I made about 7 to 9 lbs depending on weather on a 6-rib setup with a 3.2in pulley. The car also has a 224/226 duration 575/575 lift with a 114 LSA cam in it. I am pretty much at the limit of the setup for fuel and boost. My AFR was good, but fuel pressure drops from 60PSI to about 52 PSI by the top of the power band and if I wanted to spin the blower faster, I needed to upgrade to the 6-rib setup.

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Excellent info tilly. Thanks a bunch. That's what I'm looking for: real world experience. I like your dyno numbers as well. Did you tune it yourself?

I'm going with Siemen 60 lb injectors and a Lonnie's dual in-tank fuel pump setup right off the bat.

I wonder if Bob @ Brutespeed would care to chime in?

tilly

iTrader: (5)

I had a buddy of mine tune it for me.

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Ordered everything today. It's no longer an incomplete kit ...minus a few bolts. And thanks for the fan shroud and fan Steelgraygtp.

Somebody wanna do me a favor and look at their procharger J bracket and tell me about how wide the washer is on the tensioner pulley (the side that actually keeps the pulley secured to its shaft). I'm pretty sure it should be wide enough to retain the inner sleeve of the bearing, not just the tensioner shaft.

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

I was gonna get the Alkycontrol kit, but unless there are some major problems with DevilsOwn kit I'm going with it. It's cheaper but still has dual controls with a level sensor and low level indicator light. And it's cheaper. Anyone have a bad experience with the DevilsOwn kit?

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

The Siemens 60lb injectors and Lonnie's kit are a great way to go. Bob

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

Thanks Bob. You da man.

Going with DevilsOwn Methwnol kit and their 50/50 premix. Any tips on where to mount two methanol nozzles?
I want to put them in something metal, and pre IAT by at least 6 inches.
I was thinking of putting one in each of the metal tubes that are just before the special molded rubber tubing that lead to the plenum.
Or should I put the nozzles before the intercoolers?

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

You're welcome Justin. I'll reply to your e-mail as soon as I wake up.

Thanks. Bob

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

So I finally have everything installed, just waiting on some more standoffs that will be here Wednesday as I had a shorter one for an auto trans car which made my idler pulley crooked... ran for ten minutes and you could see the belt wanting to jump off the idler pulley even at idle. Sounded good for ten minutes though!

I have a ridiculous amount of special screws and bolts from Amazon and eBay, which would come in packs of 25-100!

I purchased little allen head "bits" and used a 1/4" wrench to tighten all the socket head cap screws on the head unit--Fit perfectly.

Bought some high pressure rubber caps with built-in worm style hose clamps off of Amazon to cap off the ports for the procharger bypass system.

Installed Lonnie's double pumper(beautiful piece) and SD 60 lb injectors.

Planning on installing the DevilsOwn pump below the driver's side headlight/above the intercooler.

Having Edc on here help me with the tune as I've nevr tuned a FI car before.

Still have to wire up my vacuum manifold, Vac/Boost gauge, and my little flat0.5" thick) fuel pressure gauge that's the size and shape of an oil change sticker(and will velcro to the windshield where the sticker approx goes).

I'm using a 3.5" pulley to start with. But from tilly's post I may need a smaller pulley to reach my goal of 8-10 lbs and/or 550rwhp. Hopefully with methanol/water injection I won't pop #7, whatever the amount of power I end up with.

About how small can a 6 rib pulley get before belt slip becomes a problem?

AbsolvedJD

iTrader: (12)

I know the alignment of these kits isn't the best right out of the box, but this is ridiculous.

None of the three pulleys are in line(which I could possibly fix)... But the idler pulley is just as crooked as it was 2 weeks ago before I bought all 3 new standoffs. You can see how crooked the whole J bracket and idler pulley is without the belt even being on there. Something is wrong with either the crank pulley, J bracket, and/or idler pulley. The crank pulley is seated well with an approx 2mm gap between the lips of the two pulleys. The idler pulley has no washer between the backside of the pulley and the J bracket(which could affect its alignment).
The head unit pulley has a 0.075" and 0.100" shim, buts still not shimmed enough. If the head unit pulley was to be shimmed out far enough to be in line with the crank pulley then it would hit(or almost hit) the alternator pulley. It looks as though the crank pulley needs to be shimmed more toward the front of the car.

Then on top of all that I would still have to machine down the standoffs to get the J bracket straight AND in line. I know alignment issues are normal, but I haven't found anyone who has had a problem this bad, nor have I found anyone having a crooked J bracket. I have almost spent enough money on this used kit to equal a brand new 8 rib kit...If I spend any more money I'm just going to get the Aster bracket setup.

HAS ANYONE HAD THIS MANY 6RIB ALIGNMENT ISSUES?!?!