Super hard clear coat
#1
Staging Lane
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Super hard clear coat
I have a black car and its taking for ever to buff out the 8 years worth of swirl marks and light scraches, and longer if I have to buff a spot i wet sanded with 2000.
I have been running my buffer so long one of the springs on the brush heated up and lost its tension and now I need either a new buffer or new brushes. this might be a good reason to replace this cheap one with a makita.
I have been running my buffer so long one of the springs on the brush heated up and lost its tension and now I need either a new buffer or new brushes. this might be a good reason to replace this cheap one with a makita.
#2
what compound and pad combo are you using? it usually takes 2 passes with an orange pad and m105 to remove any scratches with a PC for mine
then again, black is the worst color if it's not immaculate as it shows everything.
then again, black is the worst color if it's not immaculate as it shows everything.
Last edited by gangnam style; 04-09-2013 at 04:53 PM.
#4
i found the newer MF pads available, increase the cut substantially vs a foam pad.
they are a bit more fragile than foam but so long as you dont overwork it or change them out more frequently, should be a non issue. otherwise they may start to delaminate if they overheat. a vented/drilled backing plate will help as well keeping the pad cooler
they are a bit more fragile than foam but so long as you dont overwork it or change them out more frequently, should be a non issue. otherwise they may start to delaminate if they overheat. a vented/drilled backing plate will help as well keeping the pad cooler
#6
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I am using 3M extra cut compound and a 3M foam cutting pad on a makita buffer. followed by 3M machine polish, then meguires hand glaze with a carnauba wax on top of that.
#7
I'd say the clear isn't super hard compared to European clears, but it's fairly hard for domestics. It seemed a lot harder to get the correction I wanted compared to the ease to put swirls in the clear.
I did a 95% correction on my car during the winter. My car is an '07 and had likely never been fully detailed (I bought it in 2010). In order to get a really deep cut, I started with a purple LC wool pad and M105, switched to a Meguiar's MF correction pad with D300, then finished with an orange LC pad and Menzerna SF4000 to remove hazing from the D300.
I wish I had used something other than the M105 because it dusted like crazy, and the Menzerna had a lot of oil that I had to remove before applying OptiCoat. It took a fair amount of time to do everything because it was with a DA. A random orbit polisher or a more aggressive pad/compound combo would reduce the detailing time.
I did a 95% correction on my car during the winter. My car is an '07 and had likely never been fully detailed (I bought it in 2010). In order to get a really deep cut, I started with a purple LC wool pad and M105, switched to a Meguiar's MF correction pad with D300, then finished with an orange LC pad and Menzerna SF4000 to remove hazing from the D300.
I wish I had used something other than the M105 because it dusted like crazy, and the Menzerna had a lot of oil that I had to remove before applying OptiCoat. It took a fair amount of time to do everything because it was with a DA. A random orbit polisher or a more aggressive pad/compound combo would reduce the detailing time.
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#8
If you went from a heavy duty compound straight to machine polish, that may be your problem. I just used the same products as you on my cts-v that had never been buffed in it's entire life. After the compound I used 3-m Finesse-it, then machine polish, it turned out very nice !! I broke down and bought Zaino products for the last steps by hand because I have a black car. Very nice paint after all the work !
#10
Last spring/summer I did my first exterior detail. I spent months reading, asking, and learning at Autogeek forums before I went ahead with the job. I got a PC DA, the Meg's microfibre kit with both types of pads in 3" and 6", d300, d301, and collinite 845 and a few LC crimson pads for my final step. I spent a TON of time on it, and the results were awesome IMO. Unfortunately, I didn't do quite as well as I'd thought because by the late fall I could see many of the imperfections "reappearing". My washing techniques were always very careful and I knew these imperfections weren't (all) newly installed. It seems as though the Meg's MF DA compounds employ some fillers which tricked me into thinking that I'd "corrected" the finish, when in reality I just covered up the imperfections for the most part.
Ill be trying it again this spring (since I have all the equipment and materials now anyway) and we'll see if I can do any better this time...
Ill be trying it again this spring (since I have all the equipment and materials now anyway) and we'll see if I can do any better this time...
#12
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im a newbie to detailing, i was looking into this kit any thoughts?
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-por...l-remover.html
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-por...l-remover.html
#13
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im a newbie to detailing, i was looking into this kit any thoughts?
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-por...l-remover.html
http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-por...l-remover.html
I have used www.detailersdomain.com with coupon codes for supplies. I like Menzerna products.
JunkMan2000 on youtube has some great tutorials, funny guy as well.
#14
I wish I had used something other than the M105 because it dusted like crazy, and the Menzerna had a lot of oil that I had to remove before applying OptiCoat. It took a fair amount of time to do everything because it was with a DA. A random orbit polisher or a more aggressive pad/compound combo would reduce the detailing time.
My paint is pretty swirly right now. I would like to get either a PC or flex and work it with m105 (orange pad) then po85rd (white pad). I'm just not sure where I want to go after that. I usually use zaino, but was thinking maybe zaino as a sealant and then Opti-Coat to seal that in. Maybe a carnuba after that. What are your guys' thoughts?
#17
OC is more for durability than to make your paint pop. it'll protect the correction you've made, not necessarily enhance it.
i'd try collinite 845 for the wet look as well as decent durability
i'd try collinite 845 for the wet look as well as decent durability
#18
The posters above are correct. Need a clean oil-free surface for Opti-Coat to adhere to and remain permanent. It provides some shine, but more like the "just washed" look, not really any depth. I applied it more for protection since I currently have to use rinseless washes. I did mess up in applying the Opti-Coat. I didn't get a great wash/degrease before applying the Opti-Coat and have some dust underneath a small section. Now I'll have to compound off the Opti-Coat, correct the surface, and try again. I wouldn't recommend it if you're new to detailing and are in a time crunch.
I applied Blackfire Wet Diamond over the Opti-Coat. There's a zillion different waxes/sealants offering insane gloss. I don't have the resources to try them all, so I only know what I like.