ToxicWS6

basically, ive had issues with my windows for awhile now and finally quick fixes arnt cutting it and its completely jamming up now(waiting for summer to fix it better anyway), thinking on this was i want to thoroughly go through it and fix everything and do a clean job on it, take my panel off and fix the cracks/do the cracked door panel mod, fully take out window/window track, clean up/fix/weld tracks back together, re do fiberglass on door as the whole window regulator assembly twists and moves in the door as the rivet holes are wallowed out, anyway....

real question is, if i take my WHOLE door off the car to do all this so its in my garage and i have the room to do it etc, what issuses could i have? things ive thought of were....

1. is the door being shut on the car help hold the integrity of it/will it hurt the rest of the body at all with out the door on it for a few days

2. how hard would it be for a friend and i to remove/reattach the door and have it line up ok and shut like before

3. would i have to make quick disconnects for all the wires or are there connects close by that will pull through the grommet?

also dont know if this should be in body section of ls1 forums or not but

1320Chicken

iTrader: (4)

There is a plug in the pillar. Best way to do it is if you have the fender off. Pull the 4 bolts holding it to the pillar unhook the wires then open the handle and pull it right off as an assembly. Then when you put it back on the car latch it to the striker(door closed) reinstall bolts and wires. It makes it a one man job and you'll be in the ballpark of original alignment. Still have to tweak a little.

The structural integrity is in the jamb itself. Both pillars being tied together by the rocker and roof panel.

xxrillixx

iTrader: (118)

Exactly that chicken said.

With the harness removed... If you pull the fender off, close the door (window down) and remove the 4 bolts in the 2 brackets. Then with your body against the door pull the handle lightly, lean it towards you, one hand in the door (wear gloves) and you can move it freely by yourself.

I re-install them the same way.

Really only thing you have to worry about is dropping it / scratching the bottom.

You could make quick connects... are you planning on doing this often? if its just once, then i wouldnt.

ToxicWS6

thinking just a one time deal thing to get the doors/windows back to full working condition, thanks guys ill give it a shot!

barkerpa3466

iTrader: (3)

I am replacing my driver side door because the window motor/regulator mounts are riped to shreds and I can't mount my new unit.

So my understanding is that the best way to go about it is to remove the fender and that there is a harness conector for the door harnees so disconect that, then remove the four bolts holding the door then the whole thing comes off.

Am I missing anything?

1320Chicken

iTrader: (4)

That's it. Pretty straight forward.

98cobrakiller

this helps me alot too. i have to remove the drivers side door on my t/a because the fiberglass door panel is starting to seperate from the door so i have to remove the door and re attach that. where is the door harness pigtail behind the fender? or under the dash area

barkerpa3466

iTrader: (3)

That is what I was about to ask.

1320Chicken

iTrader: (4)

When you open the door pull the rubber boot out of the body and you'll see it. There's just enough slack to pull it through the door frame.

xenergyx

iTrader: (3)

I did a manual to automatic power conversion on an older firebird door for my 02 TA.... PITA drill out the rivets i believe their are 3 or 4 take that crappy actuator and window motor completley out and replace ....I got parts off ebay for about 140 ie actuator and window motor....motor comes with hardware to attach to the actuator self locking nuts and washers...I got some High temp grease from walmart to survive heat here in FL and smeared it all over the gears/ rails and reinstalled. I reinstalled not using rivets but full fledged bolts and fender washers so the areas wouldnt crack(idea is pressure distribution over a small area and I kept that lil piece of bent metal which is used as a brace centered in that hole that way it never sets and wears out that whole use self locking washers or regualr with RED lock tight it keeps vibrations from breaking the thread lock. I can send pics later if need be I plan on doing my passenger door in the near future with new internals. PS: window is fast as hell.

As for door alignment I no longer have the same 2 doors that originally came with my O2 TA theyve been replaced with a 95 firebird door and a 97 I think. Once removed they will never sit right IDC how much you tweak windows and the 4 bolts ....if u have issues use the trim as a guide with a jack and a piece of woon on the bottom of the the door to match(one man)(or be a jerk and make your friend hold the door inplace if you think thats to neandrathal like I did ) to the read quarter panel and you can also control the tightness of the seal around the door by adjusting the double bar latch on the rear quarter ie if you pull it out the tighter your door will be and the further in the looser.... if its too tight the window will roll up slower due to friction but on the upside it doesnt leak GL

Firebirdguy1999

[QUOTE=1320Chicken;17486860]That's it. Pretty straight forward.[/QUOTE where exactly is the harness connector that I need to unplug I can't find it and my door is just hanging here by wires what do I do?

Viper

iTrader: (6)

You unplug the connectors from inside the door (like power windows, connector to motor, connector to power locks) and pull that through the door, through the rubber knockout. There is no connector inside the door or dash that lets you disconnect as one wire harness. Hope that helps.