TA_Freak

I took a couple of days off so that I could take my time on it. I pressed in all new A-arm bushings.

It's a completely different ride. The ride had become pretty harsh at times with 250K on the original bushings. They were pretty shot... to say the least. it was a very satisfying repair to say the least.

I've got a brand new set of Moog lower A-arm bushings to sell. I couldn't find them (previously purchased) until after I finished the job and bought another set at NAPA. If anyone is interested, send me a PM.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

I'm about to do this myself. I have a lot of wander on the road, including some loose feeling in the steering. My car only has 120k miles on it, but after inspecting them a few weeks ago, they look ready for replacement. I am doing everything in the front with the highest end MOOG parts possible, all from Rockauto. I'm doing upper and lower control arm bushings, front and rear sway bar end links, upper and lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends, and spring mount insulators. It's going to be one fun day! Got any tips you'd like to share?

TA_Freak

That's where I bought my parts. I love that place. I'll sell you the Moog lower control arm bushings for half price + 10.00 for shipping if you want them.

Here's what I can offer regarding some tips:
Remove the coil over shocks, then the lower A-arm. Then ... I found it to be easiest to press out the inner rubber of the upper control arm bushings, then with a saws-all or hacksaw cut through the outer sleeve of the bushing. Then chisel and fold the sleeve and it will fall right out. There's not much to press onto if you're going to try to press out the whole bushing.

I also found that pulling the bolt out of the lower A-arm front was a PITA due to the rack and it's boot. Try to be careful not to tear the boot. I wasn't going to disconnect the rack.

FYI - It took me about 8 hours to get it all done.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Great thread. Would read again.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

I already have all the bushings I need. All I need as of right now is 1 outer tie rod end, and both upper balljoints.

I have access to a whole auto shop with unlimited tools, lifts, and a press. I should be good. I've read about not pressing the bushings in all the way to the seat, what did you do? Thanks for the advice!

NoHope

My car feels wobbly and unstable at speeds over 70MPH. Any idea what suspension parts I have to replace? FYI, my car is at 100,000 miles.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

The only way to know that for sure is to jack the front end up and check the ball joints, inner/outer tie rod ends, bushings...

TA_Freak

I haven't heard about not pressing to the seat. I did. Hopefully that's not a problem .... maybe the gurus can chime in on that.

Also ... one of the lower control arm bushings I couldn't hit with the press. I think it was the horizontal one (it presses from the inside out).... I had to press the control arm into the bushing. You'll see what I'm talking about soon enough.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I need to do this. I'm thinking of the Strano rebuild kit with Moog upper and lower ball joints, all new A-Arm bushings. My steering is wandering a bit and the whole front end squeaks when I go over any sort of dip or bump.

My P/S pump is also whining and leaking. I figure if the tie rods are going out too, I might just pull the whole damn rack and put a manual in along with the Strano rebuild kit. Will make it loads of fun until I get into a parking lot... lol

AmDWs6

i'm into this too.. trying to change lca bushings atm ... but it seem's unworthy the more i'm looking into it.....

wheel hops...

00firebird

iTrader: (3)

I just did the upper balljoints and upper bushings... I was lazy and I'm going to hold off on the lowers until I get crazier machinery/tools for the job. Did you do both uppers and lowers? Hopefully I notice a big difference as well, it's in the garage as we speak.

AmDWs6

is there any bushing kit that includes all the bushes?

i think its better to spend the money replacing with after market than doing stock.

NoHope

I too am looking for a set of complete bushing replacements. Though I think I'd like to stick with the OEM rubber ones rather than aftermarket polyurethane ones, because I like having a somewhat decent ride quality.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Best price you are going to find is buying them all from RockAuto. Get everything MOOG. They are all rubber, but better than OEM.

NoHope

Is there actually a complete set on rockauto though? I'd get some MOOG bushings if they all came together, be pretty convenient too.

BDsSlowbird

iTrader: (1)

Some other tips...
Turn the steering wheel to full lock on the side you are working on and you won't have any problems getting the front control arm bolts out.
Measure your toe and camber before you start, and mark the lower control arm bolts so you can get the alignment close when you put it all back together.
As far as pressing the bushings in, again take measurements of the gap between the bushing flange and the control arm before you remove the old ones so you can put the new ones in the same place.
It's a relatively easy job, just time consuming. Give yourself a full day or two.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

They have sets for each upper and each lower. There isn't really a kit of everything that I'm aware of.

K6689 is the two upper control arm bushings, and K6490 is the lower control arm bushings. Each has 2 bushings in it (front and rear bushing for that arm), so you'll want two of each if you're doing both sides.

NoHope

Thanks for the great help!

02TransAm/Batmobile

iTrader: (32)

Do you think you could provide us with a list of part numbers? Do you think spring mount insulators are necessary to renew?

AmDWs6

The part numbers :

bushing's for rear lca's is 6718 fronts 6490
rear uca's 6178 front uca's 6689

2 bushings each.