Which Rocker Arms?
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Which Rocker Arms?
Trying to decide on rocker arms, don't really need them but after 100k I'm either doing the trunion upgrade or full on rocker arms, wth why not just go all in and do it right from the start.
Looking at :
Yella Terra
Harland Sharps
Comp gold something something the aluminum ones
Lunati Voodoo
Sticking with the 1.7x ratio unless there is a reason to do otherwise, let me know what your thoughts on the above are, and if you have a different suggestion I'm all ears. In the hunting and gathering information stage at this point.
Looking at :
Yella Terra
Harland Sharps
Comp gold something something the aluminum ones
Lunati Voodoo
Sticking with the 1.7x ratio unless there is a reason to do otherwise, let me know what your thoughts on the above are, and if you have a different suggestion I'm all ears. In the hunting and gathering information stage at this point.
#5
I have the comp ultra golds on my car. I havent broke them or any thing.but. I did drop one off my work bench (36" tall) and it put a significant dent in the rocker. They must be made of tin foil.
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Thanks guys, keep it coming. I will look into scorpion as well. At this point I would love to start working on some bigger power adders, but I just don't have the time to get into a bigger build; rockers arms for now, If I do one little thing here and there when I have time it adds up in the long run for me.
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Had Crane gold rollers in mine and never had an issue. They are supposedly accelerated lift so they open farther faster and they are actually around 1.72. I later switched to the 1.8 (1.82) and they were flawless as well. They come with chomoly pushrods to replace the factory ones (if you have a cam that requires a length other that stock the pushrods will not work) guide plates, studs, and poly locks.
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#8
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Had Crane gold rollers in mine and never had an issue. They are supposedly accelerated lift so they open farther faster and they are actually around 1.72. I later switched to the 1.8 (1.82) and they were flawless as well. They come with chomoly pushrods to replace the factory ones (if you have a cam that requires a length other that stock the pushrods will not work) guide plates, studs, and poly locks.
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Had Crane gold rollers in mine and never had an issue. They are supposedly accelerated lift so they open farther faster and they are actually around 1.72. I later switched to the 1.8 (1.82) and they were flawless as well. They come with chomoly pushrods to replace the factory ones (if you have a cam that requires a length other that stock the pushrods will not work) guide plates, studs, and poly locks.
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With all that said, is it something to worry about? Probably not. As long as your PTV clearance is good and you keep an eye on the rocker arm trunions. The additional spring pressure is only about 15-20 pounds.
Last edited by 07CTS-V; 04-26-2013 at 08:29 AM.
#13
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I would honestly go with OE replacements from GM. They have revised bearings and are not the problem they used to be. In speaking with Brian Tooley, he said for most applications OE is just fine and most problems come from valve train instability rather than outright weakness of parts.
You can send him an email, might take a little while to get back to you, but he's a really good dude and freely shares information.
No need to spend big money on rocker arms on a street motor IMO.
You can send him an email, might take a little while to get back to you, but he's a really good dude and freely shares information.
No need to spend big money on rocker arms on a street motor IMO.
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The V is mostly on autocross duty at the moment, that said I've got new valve springs and valve seals in already. Any reason to do newer lifters, pushrods, or other bits and pieces in the valve train? I'm just trying to make this thing as bulletproof motorwise as possible.