Cadillac CTS-V 2004-2007 (Gen I) The Caddy with an Attitude...

Which Rocker Arms?

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Old 04-25-2013, 08:24 PM
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Default Which Rocker Arms?

Trying to decide on rocker arms, don't really need them but after 100k I'm either doing the trunion upgrade or full on rocker arms, wth why not just go all in and do it right from the start.

Looking at :
Yella Terra
Harland Sharps
Comp gold something something the aluminum ones
Lunati Voodoo

Sticking with the 1.7x ratio unless there is a reason to do otherwise, let me know what your thoughts on the above are, and if you have a different suggestion I'm all ears. In the hunting and gathering information stage at this point.
Old 04-25-2013, 08:32 PM
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Scorpion is worth a look. Although it seems like all aluminum rockers are prone to breakage.

Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 04-25-2013 at 08:41 PM.
Old 04-25-2013, 09:05 PM
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I use Yella Terra, obviously the new version
Old 04-25-2013, 09:41 PM
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Id stick with the stock rockers. Very very rarely do they have any issues. If you have to do rockers Yella terra would be my other choice. Harland sharps dont have a great reputation. Id put the money elsewhere but thats just my .02.
Old 04-25-2013, 11:01 PM
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I have the comp ultra golds on my car. I havent broke them or any thing.but. I did drop one off my work bench (36" tall) and it put a significant dent in the rocker. They must be made of tin foil.
Old 04-25-2013, 11:34 PM
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Thanks guys, keep it coming. I will look into scorpion as well. At this point I would love to start working on some bigger power adders, but I just don't have the time to get into a bigger build; rockers arms for now, If I do one little thing here and there when I have time it adds up in the long run for me.
Old 04-25-2013, 11:45 PM
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Had Crane gold rollers in mine and never had an issue. They are supposedly accelerated lift so they open farther faster and they are actually around 1.72. I later switched to the 1.8 (1.82) and they were flawless as well. They come with chomoly pushrods to replace the factory ones (if you have a cam that requires a length other that stock the pushrods will not work) guide plates, studs, and poly locks.
Old 04-26-2013, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by raven154
Had Crane gold rollers in mine and never had an issue. They are supposedly accelerated lift so they open farther faster and they are actually around 1.72. I later switched to the 1.8 (1.82) and they were flawless as well. They come with chomoly pushrods to replace the factory ones (if you have a cam that requires a length other that stock the pushrods will not work) guide plates, studs, and poly locks.
I was going to go with these 'quick lift' 1.7's on my new build since my comp trunion upgrades wore out but decided to go with stainless Jesel shaft mounts.
Old 04-26-2013, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by raven154
Had Crane gold rollers in mine and never had an issue. They are supposedly accelerated lift so they open farther faster and they are actually around 1.72. I later switched to the 1.8 (1.82) and they were flawless as well. They come with chomoly pushrods to replace the factory ones (if you have a cam that requires a length other that stock the pushrods will not work) guide plates, studs, and poly locks.
In regard to the rocker ratio I understand what the different ratio's will do. That said will running a 1.8x vs a 1.7x put a lot of additional stress on the valve train, or any other adverse effects?
Old 04-26-2013, 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 07CTS-V
I was going to go with these 'quick lift' 1.7's on my new build since my comp trunion upgrades wore out but decided to go with stainless Jesel shaft mounts.
I would love a set of these, but I don't see it happening.
Old 04-26-2013, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Dmax/04V
In regard to the rocker ratio I understand what the different ratio's will do. That said will running a 1.8x vs a 1.7x put a lot of additional stress on the valve train, or any other adverse effects?
The higher ratio opens the valves farther which may cause some PTV clearance issues and may bottom out your valve springs. The higher lift also puts more stress on the rocker arm itself and if you have bronze guides they may wear out faster because of increased side loading on the valve stem. There is also increased stress on the lifters and camshaft because of the increase in open spring pressure.

With all that said, is it something to worry about? Probably not. As long as your PTV clearance is good and you keep an eye on the rocker arm trunions. The additional spring pressure is only about 15-20 pounds.

Last edited by 07CTS-V; 04-26-2013 at 08:29 AM.
Old 04-26-2013, 11:17 AM
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I run a Comp Cams #1500 system.

You have to modify the valve covers to get them to fit.
Old 04-26-2013, 08:38 PM
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I would honestly go with OE replacements from GM. They have revised bearings and are not the problem they used to be. In speaking with Brian Tooley, he said for most applications OE is just fine and most problems come from valve train instability rather than outright weakness of parts.

You can send him an email, might take a little while to get back to you, but he's a really good dude and freely shares information.

No need to spend big money on rocker arms on a street motor IMO.
Old 04-27-2013, 07:10 AM
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The V is mostly on autocross duty at the moment, that said I've got new valve springs and valve seals in already. Any reason to do newer lifters, pushrods, or other bits and pieces in the valve train? I'm just trying to make this thing as bulletproof motorwise as possible.
Old 04-27-2013, 11:19 AM
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Stock heads= OEM
Aftermarket with bronze valve guides= roller rockers.



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