300rwhp - converter options
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300rwhp - converter options
I have read almost all threads on this topic. I am now after personal experiences from whoever has tried a converter qith a similar setup to mine. I have unopened LS1, CAI, exhaust and Edit putting out approx. 300rwhp. I want to mate it up to a torque converter. I have been recommended the following:
Vig 2800 2.5 STR
Yank 3000 2.0 STR
Yank SS3200 (I have no idea what this is - cant find the SS on their website)
What are your opinions?
The car is to be used for street use, mainly city driving with some ET track work once per month. I am looking to get into the low 13s, possibly high 12s.
I am also considering a SuperYank 3500, but am worried about streetability with the lower STR of 1.61, but the graphs show it has similar torque to the VIG 2800 2.0.
All your thoughts and/or ideas would be greatly appreciated...
Vig 2800 2.5 STR
Yank 3000 2.0 STR
Yank SS3200 (I have no idea what this is - cant find the SS on their website)
What are your opinions?
The car is to be used for street use, mainly city driving with some ET track work once per month. I am looking to get into the low 13s, possibly high 12s.
I am also considering a SuperYank 3500, but am worried about streetability with the lower STR of 1.61, but the graphs show it has similar torque to the VIG 2800 2.0.
All your thoughts and/or ideas would be greatly appreciated...
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tci ssf 3500 2.5 STR.
With TQ mgmt on, it will shift at 6089 and SE to 4600 roughly. Wheres your dyno plot?
thats how you want to choose a TC. the SE is key. You'll need drag radials at the min.
i drive 99.999% city, here's the deal. My car locks up in OD(4) at 40mph and doesn't drop until 35mph (900rpm with 3.42 gearing).
You gas mileage will SUCK butt below lockup. I get 10-11mpg due to heavy traffic (alot of 0-40mph stoplight).
probably true for any of those verters listed up there too.
With TQ mgmt on, it will shift at 6089 and SE to 4600 roughly. Wheres your dyno plot?
thats how you want to choose a TC. the SE is key. You'll need drag radials at the min.
i drive 99.999% city, here's the deal. My car locks up in OD(4) at 40mph and doesn't drop until 35mph (900rpm with 3.42 gearing).
You gas mileage will SUCK butt below lockup. I get 10-11mpg due to heavy traffic (alot of 0-40mph stoplight).
probably true for any of those verters listed up there too.
#4
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Vig 2800 2.5 STR (This converter is actually a 3200. Don't be fooled by the "2800" designation. However, this is a good entry level converter.
Yank 3000 2.0 STR (Too tight. It would feel almost like stock and wouldn't give the gains of other converters.)
Yank SS3200 (No such thing. The tightest SS converter is a 3600 which is a very streetable converter due to it's 21 blade stator design.)
You also mentioned the SY3500. This converter would be a bit looser due to it's low STR but don't let that make you think that this is a REAL loose converter, it's not. STR has alot LESS to do with the streetability of the converter than does the stall speed...and afterall, this is only a 3500 stall. Anyway, this converter is best used by those who have NO plans of ever running drag radials or slicks. It hits softly and that's great for regular radials tires but is not so good if you have more traction.
You'll almost surely upgrade to a 3500 stall or higher eventually if you pick a tight converter now...so you might as well save the money and trouble by doing it right the first time.
Yank 3000 2.0 STR (Too tight. It would feel almost like stock and wouldn't give the gains of other converters.)
Yank SS3200 (No such thing. The tightest SS converter is a 3600 which is a very streetable converter due to it's 21 blade stator design.)
You also mentioned the SY3500. This converter would be a bit looser due to it's low STR but don't let that make you think that this is a REAL loose converter, it's not. STR has alot LESS to do with the streetability of the converter than does the stall speed...and afterall, this is only a 3500 stall. Anyway, this converter is best used by those who have NO plans of ever running drag radials or slicks. It hits softly and that's great for regular radials tires but is not so good if you have more traction.
You'll almost surely upgrade to a 3500 stall or higher eventually if you pick a tight converter now...so you might as well save the money and trouble by doing it right the first time.
#5
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BTW, SAM made a great suggestion with the TCI SSF3500. That's a badass converter and it's nice and streetable too. Only takes just a little getting used to for most people.
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Originally Posted by samz28
tci ssf 3500 2.5 STR.
With TQ mgmt on, it will shift at 6089 and SE to 4600 roughly. Wheres your dyno plot?
thats how you want to choose a TC. the SE is key. You'll need drag radials at the min.
i drive 99.999% city, here's the deal. My car locks up in OD(4) at 40mph and doesn't drop until 35mph (900rpm with 3.42 gearing).
You gas mileage will SUCK butt below lockup. I get 10-11mpg due to heavy traffic (alot of 0-40mph stoplight).
probably true for any of those verters listed up there too.
With TQ mgmt on, it will shift at 6089 and SE to 4600 roughly. Wheres your dyno plot?
thats how you want to choose a TC. the SE is key. You'll need drag radials at the min.
i drive 99.999% city, here's the deal. My car locks up in OD(4) at 40mph and doesn't drop until 35mph (900rpm with 3.42 gearing).
You gas mileage will SUCK butt below lockup. I get 10-11mpg due to heavy traffic (alot of 0-40mph stoplight).
probably true for any of those verters listed up there too.
My dyno plot reads like this. Max. torque at 4100rpm and max. power at 5000-5350rpm. Greater than 95% max. torque is reached at 3400rpm continuing all the way trhough to 4800rpm, ie., a nice flat torque curve.
I wil be hosting my personal web site soon. I can provide a dyno readout then.
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I would suggest a Yank SS3600, but you always wanna go a little higher so consider an SS3800 or SS4000
I have the SS3800 with 2.73 gears
The looseness is not bad, feels almost stock, I even let my girlfriend's mom drive it and she didn't notice a difference. Its basically about 500-1000rpms higher than normal driving with the stock converter.
Good luck
I have the SS3800 with 2.73 gears
The looseness is not bad, feels almost stock, I even let my girlfriend's mom drive it and she didn't notice a difference. Its basically about 500-1000rpms higher than normal driving with the stock converter.
Good luck
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FYI...
I found the SS3200 converter on the Yank website. Its under Converters by brand. Its not tested anywhere. Heres what Mike has to say about it:
=====
YANK C-5 SUPER STREET 3200 (258mm, 3200 stall, 2.1 STR) $895 The Yank C-5 Super Street 3200 is for enthusiasts running stock 3.15 gears, but want more "thrust" off the line. It bridges the gap between the Yank 3000 and Super Yank 3500, but will hit the tires harder for excellent throttle response.
=====
Would be good to hear from anyone running this converter or who knows what bridging this converter really gives between SY3500 and Y3000. Is it the same as the SLP3300?
Thanks all...
I found the SS3200 converter on the Yank website. Its under Converters by brand. Its not tested anywhere. Heres what Mike has to say about it:
=====
YANK C-5 SUPER STREET 3200 (258mm, 3200 stall, 2.1 STR) $895 The Yank C-5 Super Street 3200 is for enthusiasts running stock 3.15 gears, but want more "thrust" off the line. It bridges the gap between the Yank 3000 and Super Yank 3500, but will hit the tires harder for excellent throttle response.
=====
Would be good to hear from anyone running this converter or who knows what bridging this converter really gives between SY3500 and Y3000. Is it the same as the SLP3300?
Thanks all...