k_garretson23

iTrader: (8)

Im bolt-ons with 4.11s. The gears are killing me since my limiter is only 6400 rpm and my window switch deactivates at 6100. Im on a 27" hoosier qtps. I only picked up 3.5-4mph from motor to a 100shot and Im trapping the same on a 125 as a 100. Am I just out of gear, or is there an issue? Im pulling plugs tomorrow. Im also saving for a cam package so I can spin higher rpms and still make power.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Wow, no you should get a good 8-10 mph off a good running 100 shot. When I had my Mustang I gained 102 rwhp on a 100 shot, and gained a consistent 9-10 mph at the track

Italianjoe1

Are you shifting at 6400? The window switch should be closer to the shift point if you feel like that's slowing you down.

It's a different platform but my car gains 10mph at least on bottle, and I have to shift an extra time. On motor I finish the 1/4 at 104 in 3rd gear. I'm at 114-115 in 4th gear on bottle.

k_garretson23

iTrader: (8)

Im shifting at 6400. I was told not to have the window switch too close the the limiter because if you hit the limiter it'll hit the fuel cut and you dont want it to bounce in and out of your nitrous range.

FoHawk

iTrader: (3)

Thats why you need a fuel cutoff safety switch. Fuel gets cut and the N20 gets shut off.

brandon@nitrousoutlet

iTrader: (2)

Do you have a dyno graph on the bottle?

k_garretson23

iTrader: (8)

i have a fuel pressure safety switch . I completely forgot about it.
Graph attached the afr looks whacky on the graph but my gauge says it holds steady at wot at 11.9. Friend of mine and myself are actually about to do a couple pulls for data log.

brandon@nitrousoutlet

iTrader: (2)

That looks fat on motor and then on the bottle the A/F is all over the place. Can I get some more info on your setup? timing on motor? nitrous kit components? Another thing is why are you shifting so high? Even on your motor pull it looks to be done pulling in the 6k to 6100 range.

k_garretson23

iTrader: (8)

02 bolt ons car m6. 1 3/4" headers, lid, TDs, moser 12 bolt with 4.10s, monster stage 2 clutch, tick master. I run my nitrous tune all the time, its 4.5* retard. I run a 27" hoosier qtp bias ply tire.

I spin the motor that high so I can make it through the traps in 4th gear. I dont know why the afr is so whacky on the dyno graph we just did some pulls and riding around its between 14-15, wide open on motor its steady 12.3 on spray steady 11.9.

my kit is mixed matched plate kit. -4an lines NX lighting solenoids, dyno tune purge, nos plate, dyno tune bottle heater, spraying at 1000-1200 psi

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

One of my main concerns would be possible valve float from the added seat pressure to the springs from the nitrous while spinning that high. The stock cam and valve springs simply aren't made for that, and when you combine the extra pressure of the nitrous on top of it....well that's not good IMO lol. Something you might want to consider...

k_garretson23

iTrader: (8)

Its definitely something Ive considered since I know I dont make power that high anyway. I was told by some friends with VERY good running ls cars that Ill be fine spinning it that high and wouldnt worry until I start spinning past 6500 which I wont be dont until I upgrade the cam and valvetrain.

Dynospeed

iTrader: (3)

Rejet your fueling so you have a proper afr with the nitrous at 900 to 950 max. We pick up 9mph in the 1/8 on 100 shot. My car is set up completely for nitrous though. 6.75@107.3 to 5.94@116.73. Are you pulling off the fuel rail?

shortdog

iTrader: (1)

It causes more problems than saving a motor from being blown up.
That's probably your problem right there. https://ls1tech.com/forums/nitrous-o...pss-users.html .. along with many other threads about that junk switch. Do a search.

DWK

I have a stand alone cell which had it's own pump switch which I have since changed and added to the Nitrous arm switch. I changed because once I forgot to switch it on, and if I had no FPSS I hate to think what could have happened. Nitrous and no Fuel. Thanks FPSS.

100 shot for me is around 9 or 10 MPH.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

This is a hard one to tech.

1'st problem I see is the air-fuel on the dyno graph is all over the place. If its flat on the pulls you did on the street thats good. 11.9 air fuel is not agressive by any means and you should have no problem picking up the times at that. Unless your wide band is off.

2nd problem I see is that you are twisting this poor little motor for everything its worth. Its done at around 5800 to 6000 RPM. If you are twisting it to 6400 at every shift that means its hitting a flat point in pulling 3 times down the track then its struggling to make it across the traps. You very well may be floating the valves like stated above. You need a gear change..

3rd problem. You said you have bottle pressure of a 1000 to 1200 psi. Keep a consistent bottle pressure of about 950 psi.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

For the guys that hate on the FPSS. 9 out of 10 times its because they do not understand the proper way of adjusting it. Every install I do gets one and we have no problem. I have seen them save many motors.
Dave

N2RACINGLS1's

iTrader: (2)

I would have to agree with this. Maybe I got a good FPSS but I have used the same one for 10 years with no problems.

For my setup I usually pickup 8 MPH to 9 MPH in the 1/8 mile on a 100 HP shot.

Good luck on your next outing.

N2

1998silverbird

iTrader: (29)

Wouldnt the shop that tuned his car see this and make the proper adjustments? He has a full dyno tune for the N20. I looked at his graph in person and could not believe the shop let him out the door with that kind of crap A/F!

I thought the same thing for the Rpms as well. Why did they tune it to spin so high on a stock motor?