Pushing Water
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Georgetown TX.
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pushing Water
6.0 Iron Truck block 408. TFS 245 heads. Super Vic. Nitrous Outlet Direct Port and coolant cross over.Diamond Nitrous piston with 10cc dome. Cometics .060 MLS head gaskets. ARP head studs. Stock F body radiator. Meziere Electric race water pump. We tuned the car on a 28 jet and ran it a few weeks with no problem. We up'd the jet to a 33 and started having trouble with it puking water in to the catch can. It was doing it on a chassis dyno right at the top of the pull. It charges the catch can soo fast that it sprays out the vent hole at the top of the can. Car never shows signs of getting hot. Never goes over 180 degrees. Running 14.5 degrees of timing, and have been as high as 17. NGK -10 heat range plug. So i assume the combustion is pressurizing the coolant system.
So, if someone who has experience with this could educate me on what is taking place here I would appreciate it. Or is it as simple as cylinder pressure leaking past the head gasket and charging the coolant system. There is no water leaking around the head on the outside. With no thermostat, it does not seem like the coolant system is trapping air. It fills and circulates water fine.
Thanks for any input
Roger
So, if someone who has experience with this could educate me on what is taking place here I would appreciate it. Or is it as simple as cylinder pressure leaking past the head gasket and charging the coolant system. There is no water leaking around the head on the outside. With no thermostat, it does not seem like the coolant system is trapping air. It fills and circulates water fine.
Thanks for any input
Roger
#5
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Georgetown TX.
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Trending Topics
#9
Teching In
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would do a cooling system pressure test and check for leak down. Definitely sounds like your lifted your head or heads, or have hurt the head gasket. I have also seen this problem from a micro cylinder head crack that opens up under heavy load, WOT operation.
If the coolant system test passes, I would check head stud torque and maybe cinch them down a bit more...IF the cooling system pressure test checks out. Follow all testing procedures per the equipment!
If the coolant system test passes, I would check head stud torque and maybe cinch them down a bit more...IF the cooling system pressure test checks out. Follow all testing procedures per the equipment!
#11
FormerVendor
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Dyno Tuning in KY
Posts: 390
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Like Martin said I'd like to see the plugs from a fresh pull if you have them.
I would guess too much timing but wanted to see plugs to verify.
I would guess too much timing but wanted to see plugs to verify.
Last edited by James@ShorTuning; 05-15-2013 at 11:38 PM.
#12
Teching In
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If water is getting in the mix, the plugs will be clean and most likely will give you a false reading. Anyone else experience this?
#14
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Georgetown TX.
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We did pressure test the coolant system, and it held. Timing was at 14.5 on a 33 jet with a -10 plug. Plugs looked rich. It's a stock radiator and fans. And it has a Summit catch can on mounted down on the frame rail. I'm going to try a new radiator cap this weekend, and see what happens. I will pull another degree of timing out too. I am not able to log egt's as asked above. Thanks everyone for the help.
#15
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (29)
I had a similar issue. The problem was that the catch can was too small and the fans would cut off at 30mph so at idle it would be fine but when I would stop after spirited driving or a wide open throttle pull it would fill the catch can up and when I would stop, I could see where it pushed water out. I set the fans to come on and stay on even while I was driving and it fixed the problem for me.
Just something to look into.
Just something to look into.
#17
FormerVendor
iTrader: (4)
I would run C116 at minimum. If your pushing water on the Dyno then it will only get worse at he track. If your pushing water 99% of the time you got a head gasket already. I pushed water on a 125 jet and check it everything at the track and everything looked good. Against my crews recommendation I dropped back to a 110 jet and turned on the progressive. About the second the progressive hit 100% it blew all water out instantly and took two pistons and a cylinder. First time I ever hurt one, lesson learned the hard way. i would pulled the heads before spraying it again. Gaskets are a lot cheaper than pistons.