Clutch install gone wrong
05-13-2013, 05:49 AM
#1
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Clutch install gone wrong Finally got my clutch in over the weekend. Of course it took longer than I ever anticipated, but I was just glad to get it done. Now on to the bad news, seems the clutch isn't fully disengaging now. I had to start the car in gear just to get it back from the shop (which is only 2 miles away thank god), and I I can't shift unless everything is perfect. I bled the living crap out of the slave, so the only thing I could think that could be the problem would be overtorqued pressure plate bolts. Is there an actual specification for the PP torque for this setup (LS7, F1 Flywheel), or is everyone just using ~48 ft-lb? I torqued mine to 48 +/- 1 and I have the symptoms mentioned above. Could there be anything else causing the problem?
05-13-2013, 06:41 AM
#2
Finally got my clutch in over the weekend. Of course it took longer than I ever anticipated, but I was just glad to get it done. Now on to the bad news, seems the clutch isn't fully disengaging now. I had to start the car in gear just to get it back from the shop (which is only 2 miles away thank god), and I I can't shift unless everything is perfect. I bled the living crap out of the slave, so the only thing I could think that could be the problem would be overtorqued pressure plate bolts. Is there an actual specification for the PP torque for this setup (LS7, F1 Flywheel), or is everyone just using ~48 ft-lb? I torqued mine to 48 +/- 1 and I have the symptoms mentioned above. Could there be anything else causing the problem?
What slave did you use?
If you used the stock LS6 slave is would not work. You will need to use the LS7 slave.
CTS-V slave on the left, C6 LS7 slave on the right.
05-13-2013, 07:13 AM
#4
If he unevenly torqued the pressure plate, he'd feel a significant amount of vibration during clutch engagement/disengagement.
Barring the possibility that he bought the wrong slave, I would say that the system needs to be bled better. GA95, are you doing a one-man bleed or do you have a helper? What kind of equipment are you using (if any)?
Barring the possibility that he bought the wrong slave, I would say that the system needs to be bled better. GA95, are you doing a one-man bleed or do you have a helper? What kind of equipment are you using (if any)?
05-13-2013, 08:43 AM
#5
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Fuzzy, I had a helper. I had him pump iy 30-40 timess, then I released the bleeder screw. We repeated this for about an hour. It has a pedal, it just doesnt fully disengage. My speedbleeder didnt make it in time unfortunately.
NICK, I used the ls7 slave that came in the kit. Ive even verified the part numbers off of another post before I did anything else.
NICK, I used the ls7 slave that came in the kit. Ive even verified the part numbers off of another post before I did anything else.
05-13-2013, 10:15 AM
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I'm going to try bleeding it again, and see if anyone local has a mityvac. If that doesnt work, I guess i'm relegated to pulling the trans and retorquing the pressure plate (which I'm not looking forward to by the way).
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05-13-2013, 11:04 AM
#10
05-13-2013, 11:17 AM
#11
Was it torqued using the star of david technique? Or did you just go around in a circle? At 48 pound you're actually low so....i hope that is not the problem. For your sake anyway. I'm also assuming the alignment tool was all the way in the pilot bearing while the torque sequence was done?
05-13-2013, 11:30 AM
#12
Was it torqued using the star of david technique? Or did you just go around in a circle? At 48 pound you're actually low so....i hope that is not the problem. For your sake anyway. I'm also assuming the alignment tool was all the way in the pilot bearing while the torque sequence was done?
05-13-2013, 02:48 PM
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Nick, yes it was done in the star of david techniqie. Same way I did the flywheel. Alignment tool was all the way in the pilot bearing. Im gonna spend a good bit of time using my mityvac tonight, using the method where you put in into the hole in the master, and see what I get as far a bleeding goes.
05-13-2013, 03:16 PM
#14
Nick, yes it was done in the star of david techniqie. Same way I did the flywheel. Alignment tool was all the way in the pilot bearing. Im gonna spend a good bit of time using my mityvac tonight, using the method where you put in into the hole in the master, and see what I get as far a bleeding goes.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 05-13-2013 at 03:22 PM.
05-14-2013, 02:27 AM
#18
I know your immediate concern is getting the car on the road, and you may not want to look past this short-term scenario, but I guarantee that you'll want to be bleeding your clutch periodically once you realize how much of a difference good fluid makes. I recommend buying a Motive Power bleeder as soon as you can, as well as a set of speed bleeders for the brakes and one for the end of the remote clutch line. All told, it'll cost you under $175. If you need part numbers, let me know.
05-14-2013, 04:37 AM
#19
1. Pump the pedal several times.
2. Open bleeder....close bleeder....raise pedal.
3. Open bleeder....press pedal to the floor....close bleeder....raise pedal.
4. Repeat step 3 until fresh/clean fluid comes from the bleeder.
I repeat step 3 about 3-4 times before I refill the reservoir and I put 3-4 reservoirs through for a complete flush. On the last pedal push I close the bleeder before the pedal hits the floor.
05-16-2013, 04:39 AM
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The service manual says to do it this way and it has always worked for me when I don't feel like breaking out the Motive power bleeder. I would recommend disconnecting and reconnecting the connector between the master and slave cylinder lines.
1. Pump the pedal several times.
2. Open bleeder....close bleeder....raise pedal.
3. Open bleeder....press pedal to the floor....close bleeder....raise pedal.
4. Repeat step 3 until fresh/clean fluid comes from the bleeder.
I repeat step 3 about 3-4 times before I refill the reservoir and I put 3-4 reservoirs through for a complete flush. On the last pedal push I close the bleeder before the pedal hits the floor.
1. Pump the pedal several times.
2. Open bleeder....close bleeder....raise pedal.
3. Open bleeder....press pedal to the floor....close bleeder....raise pedal.
4. Repeat step 3 until fresh/clean fluid comes from the bleeder.
I repeat step 3 about 3-4 times before I refill the reservoir and I put 3-4 reservoirs through for a complete flush. On the last pedal push I close the bleeder before the pedal hits the floor.
Just a quick comment, I'm using the F1 clutch kit with the multifriction disc, and the pedal effort is alot lighter than stock in my opinion. It engages about halfway through its travel and feels great. Also, for anyone not using the Redline fluid combo mentioned by Fuzzy (I went with 3:1 because of the miles on my trans) , you don't know what you're missing! It feels like a brand new trans. The notchiness is gone, and its as quiet as can be.
