FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Well, it was inevitable: I snapped one of the lug bolts off one of my rear wheels. I've already got replacement bolts, but the question is, what tools and steps do I need to take to remove the old ones?

Last year, I replaced all of the lugs on my front wheels, but the rear wheels pose a greater challenge, since those disc brakes are in the way. You can't just pound out the old bolts once the wheel is off. I suspect I need a huge socket and a breaker bar, but I'm not 100% sure.

Thanks!

Brian in GA

I am going to install longer/heavier studs on mine in the future. I hear this job is a bear. There's a write or two on CTS-V Owners .com for your viewing pleasure.

B.

DMM

If memory serves correct, the easiest way is to remove the hub bearing. It's a PITA no matter how you do it.

ryridesmotox

It blows when there is no easy way out. I would probably take it somewhere sometimes some things aren't worth e pain in the ***

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like people on the Cadillac Forum have successfully drilled an access port in the dust cover. I'm going to try that, provided that I can find an acceptable plug for the hole.

vmapper

iTrader: (8)

do you have a link as to where you purchased replacement lug bolts?

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

out of curiosity how many miles do you have on your car?

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

When I get home tonight, I'll get you a part number. They're just Raybestos lug bolts. Better than OEM, but not as good as ARP. I'm probably going to replace the front lug bolts with slightly longer ones, since I recently installed a set of front wheel spacers fabricated by MightyMouse that eliminate that slight underbite the CTS-V has. The part number I'll give you is more than sufficient for all of the wheels and lugs we can use.


A touch under 29,000. If you're worried about your bolts, don't. I have a nasty habit of over-torquing stuff. I have to use a torque wrench for critical stuff that's torque sensitive and so that I don't accidentally break something I can't easily replace.

To date, I've broken 7 of the stock lugs and 11 pieces of 3/8" drive hardware (sockets, wrenches, and extensions). 15 if you count that Popular Mechanics rounded bolt extractor kit. Those things lasted all of three seconds apiece.

Never broken a Raybestos lug bolt.

vmapper

iTrader: (8)

Thanks fuzzy, ill take that pn when you get it.
also would you happen to know the ARP pn equivalent?

MN_V

iTrader: (5)

tophat on the other forum just went through this... he had some complications though. good luck.

98cobra

iTrader: (32)

I guess gm isn't building lug nuts to your specs....

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Lug bolts/studs, you mean. But yeah, they definitely don't have sufficient tensile strength to handle being torqued 100+ times per year. I also had to upgrade to solid lug nuts after I torqued the covers right off the stock nuts. Since upgrading to Forgestar F14 wheels, I've been running 24 matching gloss black spline drives, which were worth every cent. The finish on the cheaper black lug nuts wears off pretty quick.

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

ohh im not worried about mine, i've broken many before. I dont pull my wheels off often enough to worry about it and i also use a tq wrench due to the ones i've broken before.

That and its something you learn once you see someone snap one at a track event.

I was just curious to get an understand of your vehicle.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

I'm not sure what knowing my mileage tells you about the CTS-V. It's all about how the vehicle is maintained.

A car with 500 miles on the clock and no oil in the engine is going to be in much worse condition than a car with 50,000 miles and a fastidious owner. As a stickler for cleanliness, I go right for the engine bay to get a feel for how someone maintains their car.

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

you seem to always be on edge on both of these forums. no one called your maintenance routine or ability into question.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

You're going to have to get used to the fact that I'm a hyper-analytical engineer.

I was simply pointing out that your basis for asking the question didn't adequately support the question.

And for what it's worth, I wish people would call me out more often. Praise doesn't do anybody tangible good.

liqidvenom

iTrader: (2)

You arent that hyper-analytically....not even close to it.

Hyper-analytically is well found in many people in my industry. and my basis for asking, i never disclosed. general understanding is not the basis for anything tangible.

FuzzyLog1c

iTrader: (4)

Raybestos 2093B. M12x1.5 with a 40mm underhead length. They cost about a buck apiece, but most shops usually sell them in boxes of five for about $6. So you'll end up spending about $30 for all four wheels, and have one left over.

After searching for about 20 minutes, the best I could find in ARP was the 100-7709 (sold in boxes of four, but otherwise identical to the 100-7710, sold in boxes of five). They cost about $4 apiece and have a 1.850" (47mm) underhead length, which may be too long unless you a) have big lug nuts or b) need that extra 7mm to compensate for a thin wheel spacer.

jclayc

iTrader: (8)

ARP 100-7708
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-7708

longer than stock

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

One would think a hyper-analytical engineer would torque things properly. And would stop using 3/8" sockets on things with high torque values.

Just out of curiosity, how many of the wheel studs you've broken were with the cheaper lug nuts you were running at one point, and how many were with the Spline Drives? Years ago, I broke I think 3 or 4 stock wheel studs over the course of 18-24 months on my Subaru while running generic chrome lug nuts. Since switching to quality lug nuts (Spline Drives and RAYS duraluminum) about 9 years ago, I haven't broken a single wheel stud, despite countless wheel changes for brake work, auto-x events, track events, winter/summer swaps, etc. I didn't change anything about my technique for installing the lug nuts (always done by hand with a ratchet and torqued to spec), and the hubs still have stock wheel studs, so the only variable that changed was the quality of the lug nuts.