FinkenTA

The car is a bone stock 01' TA. I bought it about a week ago and the guy I bought it from said it might need a new clutch. But I'm thinking different. Clutch grabs fine, and holds power.

Only problem I'm having is taking off from a dead stop, the clutch will start to grab, then the pedal will physically push back at me, and then it seems the clutch grabs the rest of the way and thunks. Then im stuck in first. I then have to press the pedal down, which at this point is super stuff, let up, and at this point it's super mushy, pump it a couple times, and then I can shift into second. This scenario is especially prominent taking off from an uphill incline.

Another thing it is doing is at full throttle, when I go to shift, it won't let me, it's stuck in the gear, and I have to go through the same process as explained above to get into the next gear.

Normal driving shifting gears is smooth and effortless. This is only at a stop and full throttle. To add, it is usually random. But happens 80% of the time. I flushed out all the old black fluid that was in the car and bled it for a good hour till it was "clear." Same issue.

I bought a new master from GM and I am hoping it fixes it, and ill be doing the drill mod in the process.

Any input guys?

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like the clutch is on it's last leg as you say it is worse the more you slip it and put heat into the diaphragm springs, I would save for a new clutch as I don't think the master is going to help imho.

FinkenTA

I beg to differ on the clutch being shot. These are 3500rpm drops in first. Grabbed fine just couldn't grab second. And this was my buddy who drove it who has 10+ years on f body know how. He's saying slave or master ad since I got the master just toss it in.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

That proves nothing, as long as it has enough bite left to break the tires loose then there isn't a strain on the clutch after that. The heat from it has weakened the diaphragm springs though and that is why it won't disengage or the fluid is boiling possibly from the slipping if you're not using Dot 4. People seem to think when a clutch is starting to slip it's all or nothing...that's not necessarily the case.

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

I assume you have already flushed the fluid in the reservoir to see if that helps before you replace the master?

FinkenTA

Yes I have already flushed, refilled, and bled it.

FinkenTA

Just put in a new master. When I took the old one out the reservoir had black muck at the bottom. Cleaned the hell out of it and the new master came with a new rubber line to the res. Having trouble bleeding it now, but I did some research and guys have had great luck with the mity vac system. Waiting for the girlfriend to hurry home in the slow 3800 bird to take me to harbor freight to grab one :p

FinkenTA

Mityvac worked awesome. Sucked tons of air out. Now just for a test drive

FinkenTA

Clutch works and feels great till I did a 1-2 punch. Clutch pedal got all sloppy and barely had any engagement in it and couldn't go into third till I pumped it a little but much better then before. I'm just gunna say fugg it and get a new clutch/fly/slave.

FinkenTA

Btw I did the drill mod while I was in there

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

I'm sure the new master having clean fluid and free of all gummed up clutch dust from slippage helps initially, but it won't stay that way for long

FinkenTA

Just invested in a stage 2 monster clutch premium package from ws6store. Should be here soon

AmarilloWS6

iTrader: (3)

Best decision you'll ever make

FinkenTA

So I figured I'd update this. Replaced the clutch after the car quit going in and out of gear and once the clutch wasn't fully disengaging. Also replaced the slave and throw out. Drives like a dream now