TheInferno

Basically as i see it i have a few decent options. But i don't know what would sound best per dollar.

6 channel amp, nice speakers front and hatch, and nice 6.5 subs in the middle, (or a 4 and 2 ch amp)

5ch amp, nice speakers front and in the sail panels, ditch the hatch speakers, and a JL stealth box.

6 ch amp and a mono, nice speakers in all 6 places, and a mono with stealth box.

Either way i think ill fit some 6x9 in the hatch area, maybe 5x7 if i feel lazy.

Any other combination suggestion will be nice, im focused on full range quality more than stupid bass, so no box in the T top area, as, my bottle goes there.

EDIT; Obviously this will get a nice HU , but, i can decide pretty well on that. I just want to know who had done the trial and error on the rest.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

honestly the best setup is ditch the rear hatch speakers entirely, do components up front, 6.5 subs or midrange (with frequency response no higher then 2-3,000 Hz) and a sub in the back, putting anything in the hatch speakers is just going to pull the sound stage to the back of the car. personally I always believe in running a dedicated amp for the sub but you could get by with a 5 channel.

Avaric3

iTrader: (3)

ditch the hatch speakers no matter wut route you go. without them there, you wont miss a thing at all from them

TheInferno

I Didn't get notifications of replies, odd.
I think that's what i'm going to do, but im thinking about components in the front and back seat (reallllllly nice components, and a 4ch) then a small mono or bridged dual for the JL stealth to go in the hatch

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT put components in the back seat, you will NEVER be able to balance the system right if you do that, it will ALWAYS sound like everything is coming from behind you. to give you an idea of how bad an idea that is, on non-monsoon cars the front door 2-ways are 4 ohm and the rear seat 2-ways are 10 ohm, they did this for a REASON, a speaker running at 10 ohm uses a fraction of the power the 4 ohm fronts do and was the only way to balance it out, if you put matching components in the backseat you will never hear sound from your doors.

TheInferno

This is the kind of answer i was looking for, people who have tried it. I dont want to have to redo anything if it sucks. i want to get it right the first time.

In that case instead of ditching the hatches. what about going ahead and putting some decent speakers back there with a 4ch, and the 6.5 subs in the back seat. I'm after a really nice system.

Avaric3

iTrader: (3)

forget about the hatches as well. it drags the sound stage to the back. not as bad as the sail speakers do, but still do a noticeable amount. i didnt believe it until i tried it myself that JUST having a single component set up front is plenty for loud and quality sound. if you must have sail panel speakers, then those would be strictly midbass 6.5" "subs" that you would use there.

Capricio

A modest fill effect from the back can be beneficial in blending your stereo elements in an enclosed cabin area. Just don't go any larger than the stock 4" drivers in the hatch, and use your fader control appropriately.

TheInferno

I understand dragging the sound to the back some, but i do want the whole cabin filled as Capricio states below.

That's what I was planning on, I do want to fill the cabin with sound, and i already use the fader stock to balance it a little bit more.

blown97ss

iTrader: (8)

This is what I did. a 4 ch amp a mono amp, components up front and regular pioneers in the hatch with a w6 in a stealth box. I balanced out the front and rear speakers and I love it. Before I ran components in the back seats and it seemed to me that they were too close to my ears and it was just annoying.

TheInferno

That sounds good, but here is what i was thinking now.

4Ch amp, really nice components up front, 6.5" woofers in the sail panels
since a good 4ch am i can run ch 1 and 2 front with HPF and run 3 and 4 with LPF from the sub output on the HU. Then use the Calcutta speaker output form the HU to power the speakers in the hatch, just to fill the sound since i don't want too much power from them anyhow.

blown97ss

iTrader: (8)

I would say if ur going with a sub, just leave the sail panels off. Then if u find the need for them get them. Just my opinion.

TheInferno

sorry, nah, if i was going with the previous stated setup, id leave out the sub for now. then add it if i want more. since i may as well get a 4ch anyhow.

Capricio

My car has been gone for a long time, but here is what I have, and I think it works really well.

Get an HU with full pre-amp outs: front, rear, and sub. 75-100 WRMS/channel

Get a pair of good full range class D bridgeable 4 channel amps, like these, 75-100 WRMS/channel: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...eries/GM-D8604

Run your doors and hatches off of one of them.

Set up EVERYTHING as a single 4 Ohm load, including your 10" driver side cubby sub and both of your sail panel mid-bass cones. Go for reliable, you will have plenty of power for most sane purposes and this will allow for tighter bass response. The class D's will offer the greatest level of efficiency compared to AB amps.

Run the sub output to the other amp, with the HU low-pass setting on highest value. Bridge two channels together to drive your 10" sub (250-300 WRMS @ 4 Ohm), set the LPF to about 80 Hz. Drive the two sails independently with the remaining two channels, LPF set to around 150 Hz.