tastyZL1

iTrader: (6)

Hey Guys,

I'll be going to my first track event next week and I was just looking for some advice. I just picked up Hawk quiet slot rotors along with Hawk HP+ rear pads and Hawk dtc-60s for the front. However I'm wondering if I should also just pick up some cheap solid rotors since I hear the dtc60s eat through rotors pretty quick. Anyone care to share their thoughts on this?

With the event being scheduled to have 3 sessions per day for 2 days, how many sessions (average) have people seen out of the dtc60s? I will have brake coolers routed but I'll still be using the stock calipers and rotor diameter with AP600 fluid. Just checking to see if I should also bring my set of HP+s for the fronts as a backup.

Thanks in advance for the input!

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

1-2 track days wont kill a rotor, and theyre not as hard on rotors as some people think. plus since its your first time, you wont be driving at the limit, or even near the limit. 80% is all you need.

im only seeing dtc-60 as rear fitment for fbodies on tireracks site. dtc-70 is listed as front. make sure you have the right pad.

you dont need any upgrade to the rear at all. if anything, you can downgrade the rear, since brake hop is a very big problem with fbodies. you want less initial bite in the rear. for all my track days, i only used plain no-name parts store rear pads, and thats what alot of professional racers use for TTs, CMC, etc. once you start changing around suspension geometry and reduce or eliminate brake hop, you can then upgrade rear pads.

bringing spares is always a good idea, though i highly doubt youll ever wear anything out in 6 sessions, unless something is wrong. i got at least a full season of track days; around 5-6 per year with 4 sessions per day out of full race pads, with C5 brakes. depending on how you drive, you can easily get more. brake ducting is not needed with proper pads. if you have them, fine, but its NOT needed, no matter what some people say.

keep an eye on your hubs. if they wear out, and they do with track use, they will cause massive brake wear. i wore a brand new set of HT10s down to the rivets in 2 sessions because the hubs went bad, and caused excessive and uneven wear.

tastyZL1

iTrader: (6)

I got the dtc-60 part number directly from Hawk's website for my car but maybe this is why they are taking so long to show up? Should I run solid rotors up front or just keep the Hawk quiet slot? Thanks for the info by the way, I really appreciate it!

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

i always had track pads/rotors, then different street pads/rotors, even though street use was extremely limited. its a good idea to have dedicated parts just for the track, so you keep street parts fresh and safe. there is always a chance of warping a rotor at the track. id say to be safe, get a cheap set of blanks, and keep them for the track. either consider them a use once and toss, or keep them for your next track day, if you have one (and you probably will).

it wont hurt, and that way you wont be using up street parts. which brings me to this: are you driving to the event in your car? how far is it? can you trailer if possible? do you plan on swapping brakes/tires before the event if you drive there, or traveling on what you race on.

tastyZL1

iTrader: (6)

She will be on a trailer for sure. With the new brake I also picked up new tires I think I will grab a set of cheap blanks I think summit has some for dirt cheap like 35-45/each. Unless there is a preferred set of blanks?

Thanks for the advice btw

EchoMirage

iTrader: (3)

brembos were usually the best, but if youre just going to use them once, or a few times, it doesnt matter. get the cheapest, and either toss them after, or make sure theyre true and have them cut if they arent. if you start doing track days more often, then invest in quality blanks.

brigade24

next week is today...how did it go or how is it going?

most of hawks compounds (race) will eat rotors but you get good bite...i ran the HT-10s front and rear and oh boy...hold on. but rotors can be had for cheap...race pads is another story. i've since switched to a C6 setup with carbo XP12s on the front and bigger rotors...XP12s are soft on rotors but the bite isn't there, even when they get hot. they don't fade though...i am running ducts.

tastyZL1

iTrader: (6)

Hey Guys sorry for the late reply. The track day went great and I had a blast! I did end up using Hawk quiet slot rotors with dtc-60s up front and HP+ in the rear. Stopping power was better than I expected but I definitely want to upgrade the brake system all together. I'm thinking about doing the cts-v conversion. Either way here are some pics from the event.

Empatho

iTrader: (16)

Those pictures look great, what suspension mods have you done to your camaro?

Latch

iTrader: (8)

Holy **** that must have been fun! One day... one day I'll get on the track.

tastyZL1

iTrader: (6)

Thanks guys, it was a blast! The track day event was put on by Katech. It was their annual Track Attack event at Autobahn in Joliet, IL. I used to work for them which is why you see all the Katech stickers on the car. I'll list all my mods in a second and post up some other pics. When I built the car I bought strange/hypercoil coilovers, single adjustable. As another member stated in the other suspension thread I started in this section, this combo is not a road racing combo! I knew that but didnt have time to make that change before the event. My future plans will also be below.




Current list of mods:


Engine:
Katech Track Attack LS7 - 650hp 575tq
LS7 aluminum block with billet main caps and 4.135" bore
ARP Main studs
ARP Head studs
ATI Damper
Callies compstar crank 4.000" stroke
Compstar 6.125" connecting rods
Mahle pistons CR 12:1
Katech piston squirters
GM Stage 3 camshaft 233 276 .630 .630 107 lsa
GM high speed lifters
Katech C5R timing chain
Katech LS9 high capacity scavenge and pressure oil pump
LS7 CNC ported heads
LS7 titanium intake valves and sodium filled hollow stem exhaust valves
PSI valve springs
Katech upgraded LS7 rockers
Katech ultra-lite titanium retainers
Katech carbon fiber valve covers
FAST 102 Intake manifold
FAST 65lb Injectors
Katech Billet fuel rails
Katech Billet fuel rail crossover line
Katech coil relocation kit
MSD wires
Katech Billet tensioner
Katech auxiliary oil cooler adapter
Custom built dry sump oil tank

Suspension:
Strange coilovers with hypercoil springs
BMR Upper A-arms
BMR Lower A-arms
BMR Tubular K-member
BMR front sway bar
BMR rear sway bar
BMR torque arm
Poly engine mounts
Poly trans mount
Founders adjustable panhard bar
Founders adjustable rear lower control arms
Founders lca relocation brackets
Founders Sub-frame connectors


Other misc mods:

Aeromotive stealth 340 fuel pump
Custom battery relocation
Hurst short throw
Katech LS9X Clutch kit
Tick Performance adjustable master cylinder
AP600 racing brake fluid
Hawk HP+ brake pads
Hawk Quiet slot rotors
Toyo Proxy R888 tires
Custom brake coolers
AEM Fuel pressure gauge
AEM Oil pressure gauge
AEM wideband gauge
Custom modified Halltech Air intake
Dewitts Radiator with integrated oil cooler


I'm sure I'm forgetting other stuff but that should give you guys the idea... here are some pics after I finished the build.















The Hawk rotors and custom brake coolers weren't installed when I took these pics but also another side note with this build; I literally took every bolt off of this car and painstakingly wire wheeled them, then powder coated them, along with any other part that could possibly be powder coated like the calipers, spindles, etc. after that I pulled the whole wiring harness out and re-loomed the whole thing with a high temp and much nicer material. I repainted the underside of the car as well as the engine bay... I wish I would have tracked the time I spent on it but I estimate I spent around 450 labor hours on it.. and I'm still not done lol!

(Custom air intake that wasn't in the pics but is on the car now)




Future upgrades:

Variant 3 coilover kit from Strano Performance
CTS-V brake conversion
Fays2 Watts Link
Harness bar
5pt harness
Racing seats (haven't decided which ones yet)

Latch

iTrader: (8)

That's not a car, that's a work of art. Wow.

tastyZL1

iTrader: (6)

Thank you very much, I appreciate it!

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

that is awesome, very nice car...love the white/black contrast

tastyZL1

iTrader: (6)

Thank you, I hope more f-body guys get into road racing, it's way too much fun not to try.

R Myers

iTrader: (7)

Nice car my dad told me that ther was a f body car ther with a ls7 in it that has to be you. That was at autobon right he has a sliver 2006 z06 with center lug forgeline wheels. We are going to puttam park in oct for a two day event. Did VIR in june so much fun. Very nice car!

tastyZL1

iTrader: (6)

Yup that was me. VIR is an amazing course, I didn't go there with my car but I was there with Katech and went around the track with several of our customers and it's an amazing course... minus the damn heat that week... I can't wait to go back there!

brigade24

nice car...

I went with a fixed back OMP Champ seat...im very happy with it.

those wheels look american racing torque thrusts? will they clear a big brake kit..

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

That is one sexy car, but now back to the question of Rotors and Pads. I have the CTS-V brake mod and used HPS pads for the track. It was about 2.3 mile track. Here is the link to the track i used:

http://www.pacificraceways.com/RoadR...ourseInfo.aspx

During first couple laps they were ok, but after that i was stomping on the brakes to make my 99 T/A stop. Sessions lasted about 30min with 4 sessions a day.

Does anyone have any experience with the new EBC Orange stuff pads? they just came out this year, i know a couple EVO guys that use them and they really like them. My only issue is i drive 2 hours in my T/A to get to this track so i still need them to work on the street there and back. I was also looking at the Blue Stuff Pads for this reason. I will have dedicated pads and rotors for the track so once i get home i will swap them out for my R1 Concepts Rotors with Hawk HPS pads.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Call Tim at Porterfield Brakes. I used the Raybestos ST47 this past weekend for the first time and it was very good at Barber.


You guys remember to tap the brake pedal with your left foot on the straightaway's to push the rear pads back up n the rotor due to pad knockback.

Will make your trackdays much more enjoyable.