HarleyZ28

iTrader: (2)

So I have an extra LT1 laying around. Want to start a strip build for it.

I'm 99.9 percent sure I wanna go 355 c.i with the Advanced Induction 200 cc head cam package.

Now I also want to throw a 200-250 shot at this motor. I am alien to rotating assemblies/ pistons all that good stuff. I am not trying to buy tye best of the best but I also dont want junk.

I know the saying is cheap fast reliable you can only pick two. Im not trying to be a tight *** but not trying to go callies dragonslayer prices either.

Can somebody point me in the right direction as to what crank, pistons, rods etc I will need for this kind of goal.

Oh and for what its worth I dont plan spinning past 7k. Dont want to deal with changing ecu out and all that.

Dave357LT1

Just find a decent rod and forged piston. Stock crank will be fine. Have them balanced. Hope ur car is setup right. Thats about 600rwhp. Ur going to need a upgraded rear,trans, driveshaft ect...

HarleyZ28

iTrader: (2)

Already got moser 12 bolt and lingenfelter aluminum driveshaft.

hvyss

I went with a Scat 4340 crank and Scat 4340 I beam rods on my stroker build. 4 bolt splayed block and internally balanced. Mahle forged flat top pistons and AI 200cc heads cam and ported lt1 intake. On a 200 shot the car laid down 701 to the rear wheels. And am on my third season with this setup. Did dump the 60e though. They will not withstand that kind of abuse I don't care who says they will. I have had several built by the best and they all lasted about a year apiece. Went to a built TH400 with trans brake and reverse manual valve body. It's on it's third season also with no problems what so ever.

HarleyZ28

iTrader: (2)

Wow over 700 rwhp thats crazy. What kinda times you getting? My car is a stick. T-56. Curious to see how it will hold with power like that. I also have a spec stage 4 clutch.

And that means your car is making around 500 wheel on motor? What are you spinning to?

hvyss

7000 on the bottle. It's the car in my sig. 96 impala ss and has gone 6.28 in the 1/8th and 9.91@ 135 in the 1/4 and weighs 4200 lbs. am running a PTC nitrous converter and love it. Car went 11.01@121 N/A. and car still uses the LT1 computer and a opticrap.

am_muscl

iTrader: (19)

^^^ that's what I'm looking for but in a lighter fbody. If I can get mine setup like that I will be extremely happy.

nitrous2fast

iTrader: (2)

He has a 385ci motor though. 200 shot really isn't that much. 200 has been done on the stock block. If you are trying to build a dedicated Nitrous motor then there are things that need to be done that is different than typical builds. These differences get larger with more Nitrous use. Remember that you make tons of torque with Nitrous so the trans has to be able to hold it.

ascastil

iTrader: (2)

So for a 355, will stock crank, forged pistons and rods, and nitrous rings be a sufficient setup on a 200 shot max?

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

Yes....
Have you thought of a cam/heads set up?
Gear ratio
Most of all PROPER TUNE.........?

hvyss

One I play safe with timing. N/A I running 32 degrees of timing WOT on a speed density open loop tune. My tuner told me to pull at least 3 degrees per 50 shot. And after trial and error the likes 16 degrees of total timing on a 200 shot. Yes that's low timing for a 200 but that is what the car likes. Also I will never put over a 200 on the car due to distribution issues with the LT1 intake and the single shark nozzle we use. I have checked plugs for timing marks and fuel ring countless times and have it where she likes it most. In conjunction run VP C16 fuel and NGK 9 series non projected tip plugs gapped at .035

ascastil

iTrader: (2)

Already have Ai heads/cam, 3.73s, 24x for tuning. Just need some internals.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

This is very good advice.



As others said, if you replace the crank make sure it is at least a 4340. You can always rock the stock crank for a budget build.

95mysticta

iTrader: (4)

Stock crank will take all you can handle at it. If you buy a forged crank you might as well stroke it.