Vibration just started, Input please
#1
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Vibration just started, Input please
So I got my 04 V 110k, I have had some clutch chatter and clung but no major issues. The clutch grabbed good etc etc
I parked the car and then fired her up to feel a nasty vibration in the clutch pedal, seats etc the whole car feels like vibration. Idles perfect but as soon as you go to 1500rpm the vibration kicks in.(regardless with the clutch in or out) Tranns is shifting smooth all gears and clutch grabs but (just did the Fuzzy redline fluid recommendation) def seems like there is a clunk coming from the tranns. put it in reverse there is a clunk and same with 1st.
This def isn't the normal cts v probs imo, my first thought was it was running on 6-7 cylinders. The motor isn't rocking ( I have the yellow mounts)
My guess (from searching) it is the dual mass but wanted to get some different opinions (I know it is hard online) I planned on going LS7 in the future but just wanted to make sure that it couldn't be something else. Not that bad if I just throw the stock stuff away and the problem be fixed with ls7
Any help would be great.
I parked the car and then fired her up to feel a nasty vibration in the clutch pedal, seats etc the whole car feels like vibration. Idles perfect but as soon as you go to 1500rpm the vibration kicks in.(regardless with the clutch in or out) Tranns is shifting smooth all gears and clutch grabs but (just did the Fuzzy redline fluid recommendation) def seems like there is a clunk coming from the tranns. put it in reverse there is a clunk and same with 1st.
This def isn't the normal cts v probs imo, my first thought was it was running on 6-7 cylinders. The motor isn't rocking ( I have the yellow mounts)
My guess (from searching) it is the dual mass but wanted to get some different opinions (I know it is hard online) I planned on going LS7 in the future but just wanted to make sure that it couldn't be something else. Not that bad if I just throw the stock stuff away and the problem be fixed with ls7
Any help would be great.
#3
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yea trans is shifting great. Now I have slept on it I don't see how the flywheel/mounts etc just go bad from parking it for 30 min then going back to drive home.
Will it throw an engine code if one of the coil packs go bad? I unplugged one and it ran the same?? So maybe I am lucky and unplugged the bad one out of 8. I have a w4m ecu (for months with no problem) and maybe the check engine light is disabled or something.
Maybe I am just running on 7 cylinders?? Anyone got any troubleshooting advice/technique
Will it throw an engine code if one of the coil packs go bad? I unplugged one and it ran the same?? So maybe I am lucky and unplugged the bad one out of 8. I have a w4m ecu (for months with no problem) and maybe the check engine light is disabled or something.
Maybe I am just running on 7 cylinders?? Anyone got any troubleshooting advice/technique
#4
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I would bet one of those yellow mounts let loose at start up.
I just pulled mine out and the bolt pulled through the poly as it was not anchored properly....
Between those, the tranny mount and the dual mass, you can eliminate ALOT of the vibration.
I have a build thread on here that details all of this......let me know if you have any questions.
If you have a few grand laying around......lol
I just pulled mine out and the bolt pulled through the poly as it was not anchored properly....
Between those, the tranny mount and the dual mass, you can eliminate ALOT of the vibration.
I have a build thread on here that details all of this......let me know if you have any questions.
If you have a few grand laying around......lol
#5
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I checked everything and can't find nothing out of the ordinary. The vibration is worse at about 2k rpm and then gets smoother at higher rpm. The only thing I changed recently was going to redline transmission fluid but like I said in the first post just parked and came back 30 mins later. Still has power and shifts fine all gears (still vibrates with rev in neutral. Also went to autozone to check the codes and nothing
Anything else I should check before I go pay the dealer 100+ to tell me what is wrong with it?
Anything else I should check before I go pay the dealer 100+ to tell me what is wrong with it?
Last edited by TeamSorad; 09-01-2013 at 09:53 PM.
#7
The dead giveaway is the statement from the original post: "Idles perfect but as soon as you go to 1500rpm the vibration kicks in (regardless with the clutch in or out)." If you had a coil pack or spark plug out, your engine would likely throw a misfire code after 10-15 miles.
Since you said vibration, and didn't identify any sounds out of the ordinary, that leaves you with two possibilities: either the stock pulley is wobbling, or the dual-mass flywheel is about to die. Fortunately, you can visually inspect the pulley with the engine running to see if it's wobbling at all. If it's not wobbling, it's time to finally do a clutch swap.
Since you said vibration, and didn't identify any sounds out of the ordinary, that leaves you with two possibilities: either the stock pulley is wobbling, or the dual-mass flywheel is about to die. Fortunately, you can visually inspect the pulley with the engine running to see if it's wobbling at all. If it's not wobbling, it's time to finally do a clutch swap.
Last edited by FuzzyLog1c; 09-02-2013 at 01:54 AM.
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#8
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thanks for checking out my post fuzzy. I will look at the the pulley tomorrow but my guess is it is okay because I watched the motor idle/rev up for at least 10 mins and didn't notice anything.
I noticed revshift is having a sale so I will probably order the mount kit also
thanks again
I noticed revshift is having a sale so I will probably order the mount kit also
thanks again
#9
Like Fuzzy said, if you had a miss bad enough to make a significant vibration, you would certainly have a code pop up.
Just to clarify: this vibration occurs when the car is stationary and out of gear? Or is this happening once you're up to speed? It sounds like what you're saying is that it happens when stationary, but if not, then other possibilities open up.
Just to clarify: this vibration occurs when the car is stationary and out of gear? Or is this happening once you're up to speed? It sounds like what you're saying is that it happens when stationary, but if not, then other possibilities open up.
#10
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If you took it to a dealer or just about any repair shop for that matter, they'd see poly mounts and automatically tell you that's the problem--and there's a chance they'd be right.
However, at 110k I'd say you could stand to replace the clutch either way. I didn't notice mine slipping either, but when I pulled it out at 98k it was pretty well fried and worn out. You'll be glad to ditch the heavy flywheel anyway.
However, at 110k I'd say you could stand to replace the clutch either way. I didn't notice mine slipping either, but when I pulled it out at 98k it was pretty well fried and worn out. You'll be glad to ditch the heavy flywheel anyway.
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Like Fuzzy said, if you had a miss bad enough to make a significant vibration, you would certainly have a code pop up.
Just to clarify: this vibration occurs when the car is stationary and out of gear? Or is this happening once you're up to speed? It sounds like what you're saying is that it happens when stationary, but if not, then other possibilities open up.
Just to clarify: this vibration occurs when the car is stationary and out of gear? Or is this happening once you're up to speed? It sounds like what you're saying is that it happens when stationary, but if not, then other possibilities open up.
Budracing I understand about the dealer, that is why I kept posting in this thread. Going there would probably be a fast of my time. I'm not sure what it is but what ever it is happened in the 30 mins I let the car sit.
With the revshift sale I ordered mounts and tranns insert. Also got some best offers on some ebay clutches.
Thanks again everyone for all your help