Chevelle Header report
09-30-2013, 02:36 PM
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Chevelle Header report So I have a set of truck headers on my chevelle and now that I have lowered the can I drag on everything I get near haha.
so I am looking at different headers and wondering what will give me the most ground clearance.
So I guess my question is how low do your headers hang and did you space your motor mounts up when you installed the motor. What headers did you use? Pictures would be great.
so I am looking at different headers and wondering what will give me the most ground clearance.
So I guess my question is how low do your headers hang and did you space your motor mounts up when you installed the motor. What headers did you use? Pictures would be great.
09-30-2013, 02:52 PM
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I'd recommend a shorty header for best clearance. I used Racing Innovations turbo headers for my '69, so i know they are a quality product. Here a link to their stainless shorty LS chevelle header.
http://www.racinginnovationandsupply...ers_p_319.html
http://www.racinginnovationandsupply...ers_p_319.html
09-30-2013, 03:08 PM
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I have wondered about the quality of those headers. I just have a feeling that the truck headers are just too low. seams like when I measured last they were about 2" below the frame.
Last edited by 72chevelle6.0; 09-30-2013 at 03:46 PM.
10-01-2013, 08:33 AM
#6
I have the Doug's headers. They do not hang very low, maybe almost as low as the crossmember? My oil pan hangs about 2.5" lower than the headers so I've never really worried with them...
I doubt any headers out there will have more clearance though because with the doug's headers (using BRP style 1/8" plates with SBC mounts and stock frame mounts relocated) the collectors are within 1/8" of touching the floor pans.
I don't feel the Doug's headers were worth the $650 I paid for them. They did not fit without some massaging with a hammer and the coating didn't hold up to well on the lower parts that see road splashing.
I've seen people use Fbody headers with a little work to re-angle the collectors to point straighter back instead of kicking out. I would really like to try some 1 7/8" Texas Speed headers on mine.
Personally I wouldn't put shorty headers on my truck. Might as well save money and run stock manifolds unless the intended purpose is a show type car that needs to look good but not perform to it's potential.
I doubt any headers out there will have more clearance though because with the doug's headers (using BRP style 1/8" plates with SBC mounts and stock frame mounts relocated) the collectors are within 1/8" of touching the floor pans.
I don't feel the Doug's headers were worth the $650 I paid for them. They did not fit without some massaging with a hammer and the coating didn't hold up to well on the lower parts that see road splashing.
I've seen people use Fbody headers with a little work to re-angle the collectors to point straighter back instead of kicking out. I would really like to try some 1 7/8" Texas Speed headers on mine.
Personally I wouldn't put shorty headers on my truck. Might as well save money and run stock manifolds unless the intended purpose is a show type car that needs to look good but not perform to it's potential.
10-01-2013, 08:51 AM
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Manifolds might be an option also. The post is more for long tube headers for the performance part. Here is a picture of what I am dealing with.
Last edited by 72chevelle6.0; 10-01-2013 at 10:08 AM.
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10-01-2013, 10:03 AM
#9
4th Gen Headers and Elbow Grease As far as actually contributing something useful to this post:
As Thunderstruck brought up, 4th gen headers may be an option. It is a totally different application, but for my Nova swap I was able to employ the infamous “Ebay SS 4th gen headers” with great success. It took some work with a buddy, a torch set and some 8’ lever arms to re-direct the headers straight. They fit almost perfectly, flow great, sounds great and look like I had custom headers made for the car. All for $170, a 12pack and a large pizza!
Before:
Overhead
Under Low
RH low
RH High
RH Front
LH Low
LH High
LH Side
After:
Overhead
Overhead 2
Under
RH Front
RH Side
LH Side
All the torch work caused quite a bit of the classic “rainbow” effect, but since I hated the polished look I took a pile of scotchbrite pads to pipes. The look is spot on perfect for me. And before a show I just have to give them a few quick scotchbrite wipes and they look good as new.
Before:
After:
As Thunderstruck brought up, 4th gen headers may be an option. It is a totally different application, but for my Nova swap I was able to employ the infamous “Ebay SS 4th gen headers” with great success. It took some work with a buddy, a torch set and some 8’ lever arms to re-direct the headers straight. They fit almost perfectly, flow great, sounds great and look like I had custom headers made for the car. All for $170, a 12pack and a large pizza!
Before:
Overhead
Under Low
RH low
RH High
RH Front
LH Low
LH High
LH Side
After:
Overhead
Overhead 2
Under
RH Front
RH Side
LH Side
All the torch work caused quite a bit of the classic “rainbow” effect, but since I hated the polished look I took a pile of scotchbrite pads to pipes. The look is spot on perfect for me. And before a show I just have to give them a few quick scotchbrite wipes and they look good as new.
Before:
After:
10-02-2013, 09:26 AM
#13
Maybe Doug's changed their bends slightly or I just got a junk set. I ordered them when they first came out...took a long time before they were ever shipped from Summit and the guy said they were a new item. A little while later Edelbrock came out with the stainless ones which I wish I had gotten.
I had to clearance:
around the brake distribution block on the frame as a primary was resting against it
the steering shaft was hitting a primary when the engine torqued
the number 1 primary is bent so close to the spark plug I had to make a special socket to get the plug out with a wrench
I have to use Kevlar boots on at least 4 plugs because the wire boots nearly touch or physically LAY ON the primaries (boots must be turned or replaced regularly as they burn through eventually)
passenger side was too close to the starter to remove it without loosening the header
one side dimpled itself on the upper A arm mount area
Obviously some of these might be due to not using the mounts they sell, but my biggest beef with them are the issues with how close the tubes are to the plugs for no reason.
I did not have time to try to return them or anything of the sort back then. I emailed their support with a lot of pictures and description of the issues and never got anything back. Maybe they took some of my advice? I am fairly certain I paid $600 plus oversize shipping from Summit for them.
I had to clearance:
around the brake distribution block on the frame as a primary was resting against it
the steering shaft was hitting a primary when the engine torqued
the number 1 primary is bent so close to the spark plug I had to make a special socket to get the plug out with a wrench
I have to use Kevlar boots on at least 4 plugs because the wire boots nearly touch or physically LAY ON the primaries (boots must be turned or replaced regularly as they burn through eventually)
passenger side was too close to the starter to remove it without loosening the header
one side dimpled itself on the upper A arm mount area
Obviously some of these might be due to not using the mounts they sell, but my biggest beef with them are the issues with how close the tubes are to the plugs for no reason.
I did not have time to try to return them or anything of the sort back then. I emailed their support with a lot of pictures and description of the issues and never got anything back. Maybe they took some of my advice? I am fairly certain I paid $600 plus oversize shipping from Summit for them.
