s10 carb 5.3 wiring
10-06-2013, 06:48 PM
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s10 carb 5.3 wiring What are carbd ls swapped people doin to clean up there wiring, a new harness is not an option, I just want a simple, clean easy way to get rid of the wiring mess.
91 s10 th350 trans, street legal truck
Thanks
Ethan
91 s10 th350 trans, street legal truck
Thanks
Ethan
10-06-2013, 07:37 PM
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10-06-2013, 07:49 PM
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I'm doing same swap but in my mustang u order a victor jr or witch ever intake u want and box u want there's a edelbrock ignition control box it the msd 6010 box u just plug and play crank sensor and coils that's basically it and the map sensor I'm not 100% sure but that's basically it if not there's a post on here about carb ls swap basically breaks everything down
10-06-2013, 08:01 PM
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Lol I know this, I have a vic jr and a 6ls 6010, im wondering what people are doing to the main harness to clean the engine bay, im talkin about where the harness goes in to the fire walk by the brake booster
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10-06-2013, 10:09 PM
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Plus im not good at decribing **** I detail and I dont have many pics, but if any info is needed I cud help, all I really got left to do is the driveline and some odds and ends
10-06-2013, 10:45 PM
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Ok what did u do for fuel lines etc I'm having trouble understanding it with my mustang I usto run a mechanical pump on a sbc but need to know what I need for the lsx carb
10-06-2013, 10:56 PM
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Im gonna run a jegs intank pump it shud flown about 90pgh for me, and itll ran with braided line with an to barb fittings rite at the pump,.
If you wanna do an in line just cut ur line and get some npt to barb fittings and use 2short pieces of hose, its really more simple then people think, they get scared of little stuff when they shudnt be
If you wanna do an in line just cut ur line and get some npt to barb fittings and use 2short pieces of hose, its really more simple then people think, they get scared of little stuff when they shudnt be
10-06-2013, 11:01 PM
#13
Personally I keep all the gauges in the dash working when I do one. If its got a tach I have calibrated that to work also; Don't cut anything you don't have to. When pulling the engine, save all the senders and reuse them. Pretty much plug and play. You'll definitely need the purple starter wire. The white wire would be the tachometer if its got one. The thick red wire is going to be the positive you use for the MSD. Reuse the alternator wires obviously.
Throw away the ecm as it won't do shiat anymore and isn't needed. Keep the white box that's attached to the ECM as it is what calibrates the speedometer (its called a DRAC).
Leave the fuel pump alone and run a Holley regulator run the main line to the bottom one outlet to the carb with a fuel pressure gauge attached to it and the other side get a 3/8 NPT to 1/4" adapter epoxy it shut (obviously with gas resistant epoxy). Then drill a minute hole through it to allow enough gas to return to cool the pump but not so much as to hinder the fuel pressure. Run your fuel tank return hose to that.
Throw away the ecm as it won't do shiat anymore and isn't needed. Keep the white box that's attached to the ECM as it is what calibrates the speedometer (its called a DRAC).
Leave the fuel pump alone and run a Holley regulator run the main line to the bottom one outlet to the carb with a fuel pressure gauge attached to it and the other side get a 3/8 NPT to 1/4" adapter epoxy it shut (obviously with gas resistant epoxy). Then drill a minute hole through it to allow enough gas to return to cool the pump but not so much as to hinder the fuel pressure. Run your fuel tank return hose to that.
10-07-2013, 10:24 AM
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My build was a little different as I completely removed the dash and heater assembly (not on purpose) and built my own interior panels and dash out of a sheet of aluminum. I removed all the wiring from the truck other than the wires for the lights and the fuse box and re did the wire using only what I knew I needed with switches I put in my self. I'm running mechanical gauges for both the oil and water and electronic gauges for the speedometer (speedhut GPS model) aem analog style wideband afr gauge and a auto gauge tachometer. My fan is turned on by a temp probe in the radiator and a relay, from oriellys. The main power wires are ran thru the frame from the battery to the rear bumper switch then to the ignition. I'm required to run a switch to pass tech at the track because my battery is in the box since my headers required me to remove the inner fenders. The alternator is converted by me to run a older style external voltage regulator because a resister or a light bulb was too much for me to figure out I guess and I was tired of burning up alternators trying to make it work. The fuel pump is on a new wire I have ran to the pump which is mounted to a frame brace I welded in in front of a 36 gallon dirt track steel fuel cell. The fuel lines are from a online store and they are new 8an (maybe 10an) lines and I ran them thru the frame (with a fuel filter after the pump) to a regulator on the top right side of the radiator core support then to the engine. It's a return less system and even with my big 160 gph pump it gives me zero issues. I was using the factory ignition to power the truck but found issues with the fuel pump turning off when I was cranking the engine. That was my fault in wiring wrong and not the trucks fault. And then I lost the ignition keys over storage in the winter time (I found them later tho), so I ran wires from the bumper mounted switch to a universal ignition switch and ran my own new wire to the starter.
That is really how mine was done but not everyone has the option of gutting the interior and engine bay and starting fresh. I had a heater core leak with the Sbc I ran in this before so when I tried to pull the heater core the dash broke right in half. From then on I knew it was getting gutted. I can't post pics from my phone to the site and my computer took a crap a few months ago so just take my information for what it's worth I guess. I wasn't sure if you were talking about copying my build or the other guys but I hope this helps.
That is really how mine was done but not everyone has the option of gutting the interior and engine bay and starting fresh. I had a heater core leak with the Sbc I ran in this before so when I tried to pull the heater core the dash broke right in half. From then on I knew it was getting gutted. I can't post pics from my phone to the site and my computer took a crap a few months ago so just take my information for what it's worth I guess. I wasn't sure if you were talking about copying my build or the other guys but I hope this helps.
10-07-2013, 11:21 AM
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Personally I keep all the gauges in the dash working when I do one. If its got a tach I have calibrated that to work also; Don't cut anything you don't have to. When pulling the engine, save all the senders and reuse them. Pretty much plug and play. You'll definitely need the purple starter wire. The white wire would be the tachometer if its got one. The thick red wire is going to be the positive you use for the MSD. Reuse the alternator wires obviously.
Throw away the ecm as it won't do shiat anymore and isn't needed. Keep the white box that's attached to the ECM as it is what calibrates the speedometer (its called a DRAC).
Leave the fuel pump alone and run a Holley regulator run the main line to the bottom one outlet to the carb with a fuel pressure gauge attached to it and the other side get a 3/8 NPT to 1/4" adapter epoxy it shut (obviously with gas resistant epoxy). Then drill a minute hole through it to allow enough gas to return to cool the pump but not so much as to hinder the fuel pressure. Run your fuel tank return hose to that.
Throw away the ecm as it won't do shiat anymore and isn't needed. Keep the white box that's attached to the ECM as it is what calibrates the speedometer (its called a DRAC).
Leave the fuel pump alone and run a Holley regulator run the main line to the bottom one outlet to the carb with a fuel pressure gauge attached to it and the other side get a 3/8 NPT to 1/4" adapter epoxy it shut (obviously with gas resistant epoxy). Then drill a minute hole through it to allow enough gas to return to cool the pump but not so much as to hinder the fuel pressure. Run your fuel tank return hose to that.
10-07-2013, 11:33 AM
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My build was a little different as I completely removed the dash and heater assembly (not on purpose) and built my own interior panels and dash out of a sheet of aluminum. I removed all the wiring from the truck other than the wires for the lights and the fuse box and re did the wire using only what I knew I needed with switches I put in my self. I'm running mechanical gauges for both the oil and water and electronic gauges for the speedometer (speedhut GPS model) aem analog style wideband afr gauge and a auto gauge tachometer. My fan is turned on by a temp probe in the radiator and a relay, from oriellys. The main power wires are ran thru the frame from they battery to the rear bumper switch then to the ignition. I'm required to run a switch to pass tech at the track because my battery is in the box since my headers required me to remove the inner fenders. The alternator is converted by me to run a older style external voltage regulator because a resister or a light bulb was too much for me to figure out I guess and I was tired of burning up alternators trying to make it work. The fuel pump is on a new wire I have ran to the pump which is mounted to a frame brace I welded in in front of a 36 gallon dirt track steel fuel cell. The fuel lines are from a online store and they are new 8an (maybe 10an) lines and I ran them thru the frame (with a fuel filter after the pump) to a regulator on the top right side of the radiator core support then to the engine. It's a return less system and even with my big 160 gph pump it gives me zero issues. I was using the factory ignition to power the truck but found issues with the fuel pump turning off when I was cranking the engine. That was my fault in wiring wrong and not the trucks fault. And then I lost the ignition keys over storage in the winter time (I found them later tho), so I ran wires from the bumper mounted switch to a universal ignition switch and ran my own new wire to the starter.
What did u do to keep the light and turn signals harness but get rid of everything else?
And I take it your running most stuff off a switch panel?
That is really how mine was done but not everyone has the option of gutting the interior and engine bay and starting fresh. I had a heater core leak with the Sbc I ran in this before so when I tried to pull the heater core the dash broke right in half. From then on I knew it was getting gutted. I can't post pics from my phone to the site and my computer took a crap a few months ago so just take my information for what it's worth I guess. I wasn't sure if you were talking about copying my build or the other guys but I hope this helps.
What did u do to keep the light and turn signals harness but get rid of everything else?
And I take it your running most stuff off a switch panel?
That is really how mine was done but not everyone has the option of gutting the interior and engine bay and starting fresh. I had a heater core leak with the Sbc I ran in this before so when I tried to pull the heater core the dash broke right in half. From then on I knew it was getting gutted. I can't post pics from my phone to the site and my computer took a crap a few months ago so just take my information for what it's worth I guess. I wasn't sure if you were talking about copying my build or the other guys but I hope this helps.
It sounds like you have a lot of stuff ran off switches?
And finally how hard was it to do the dash?
10-07-2013, 03:33 PM
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I just left the wiring that goes thru the firewall intact for the lights and they run to the fuse panel that I powered up with the switches. One key runs power to everything and everything turns on with the key at once except the lights and turn signals. I might change that tho to a switch panel that's sold on eBay so it's more clean and I could get rid of the factory fuse box a that has extra stuff on it I don't need. That way I can power only what I want when starting rather than everything pulling juice while I'm cranking. I don't have my wipers hooked up yet either. I kept the factory turn signal switch but the light switch was mounted on the dash that was removed. I just found a 3 way switch for high/off/low beam function. The only other switches are my line lock push button switch and my arm and spray switches for the nitrous (which sadly in 3 years I've never even filled the bottle) It was really easy to do all of the wiring honestly. The dash was easy for me since my dad has a full machine shop with a hand break and a foot shear for doing sheet metal. I want to redo the dash since I did it so fast and it's not tipping the gauges in a ideal angle tho. But my time is limited since winter is almost here and I park the truck outside. It all might change for next year tho, I'll be doing a roll bar and adding power with a large supercharger, fuel injection, and a forged 408 ish stroker build. I'm at about 460 whp n/a thru my stalled th400, I'm hoping for something in the 750 whp range with the next motor. Way plenty for a truck that weighs 3000# race ready now. Idk what the roll bar and supercharger and 8.8 rear end will add but I'm sure the hp will offset it enough.