Can't get into reverse!
10-25-2013, 11:36 AM
#1
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Can't get into reverse! Hey guys, I have a 94 TA with a t56. 2 days ago I was cruisin down the highway.
When I came up on a school zone I started to gear down.
When I took the car out of 5th it was really rough and notchy going into 4th, followed by what seemed to be a light grinding noise and my shifter vibrating. I immediately pulled off the road and went through the gears sitting still. Everything appeared to be fine so I continued to the store. When I leave the store I can't get the car into reverse. It passes the lockout gate as normal, and slides up into where reverse "should be" or seems like it should be. Even being forceful all I can achieve is a very light grinding when I hold the shifter up and let out on the clutch.
I know my clutch isn't dragging, or doesn't seem to be in any other gear. Car will sit still in all forward gears until I let out on it.
All the forward gears work, 1-6. They're still a little notchy but useable.
Car is cammed with p&p heads, and the latest mod is long tube headers into 3" true duals.
Anyone have any ideas? I've never seen anything like this before. Someone said it could be the slave cylinder, cause reverse would be the first thing it affects? Thanks in advance for any help!
When I came up on a school zone I started to gear down.
When I took the car out of 5th it was really rough and notchy going into 4th, followed by what seemed to be a light grinding noise and my shifter vibrating. I immediately pulled off the road and went through the gears sitting still. Everything appeared to be fine so I continued to the store. When I leave the store I can't get the car into reverse. It passes the lockout gate as normal, and slides up into where reverse "should be" or seems like it should be. Even being forceful all I can achieve is a very light grinding when I hold the shifter up and let out on the clutch.
I know my clutch isn't dragging, or doesn't seem to be in any other gear. Car will sit still in all forward gears until I let out on it.
All the forward gears work, 1-6. They're still a little notchy but useable.
Car is cammed with p&p heads, and the latest mod is long tube headers into 3" true duals.
Anyone have any ideas? I've never seen anything like this before. Someone said it could be the slave cylinder, cause reverse would be the first thing it affects? Thanks in advance for any help!
10-25-2013, 11:59 AM
#2
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If the shifter is going all the way into position then it's quite likely that you have an internal trans problem. a slave cylinder wont cause that. if the slave cylinder goes out your clutch will not disengage in any gear.
10-25-2013, 12:58 PM
#6
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Jack the back wheels up. Support the axle with jackstands. Start the car, look behind you at the drivers wheel, depress the clutch, put in gear and see if tires move. If they don't, rev to around 4000rpm and see if they move again. If they do, your clutch is dragging. What you describe with the 'notchy' feel and reverse problems read like a dragging clutch.
Try it out and see what's up. What clutch do you have in your car now?
It's also possible if this has been going on for awhile that the syncros could be worn, which means the trans will have to come out anyway.
Try it out and see what's up. What clutch do you have in your car now?
It's also possible if this has been going on for awhile that the syncros could be worn, which means the trans will have to come out anyway.
Last edited by SS RRR; 10-25-2013 at 01:12 PM.
10-25-2013, 01:59 PM
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Ok I'm going to give this a try, thank you for the suggestion! I forgot to mention that when I got the car home the day I was having problems the reservoir for the clutch was empty could this have possibly introduced air into the hydraulic system? Sorry for all the dumb questions. I'm somewhat new at this.
Also the clutch feels stock to me. I've driven vehicles with stage 2 and 3 clutches and it's not nearly as stiff as those.
Also the clutch feels stock to me. I've driven vehicles with stage 2 and 3 clutches and it's not nearly as stiff as those.
Last edited by xStrikken; 10-25-2013 at 02:06 PM.
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10-25-2013, 02:25 PM
#8
I agree with the other posters, sounds like you need a new clutch, these cars are rough on clutches especially if you're making much more power than stock and/or drive aggressive. Notchy is not normal...I assume it's stock since you didn't indicate otherwise, the stock clutch is pretty weak; in my experience they last 50-70k on a STOCK setup, less than that with your mods. I'd upgrade to a RAM HD or the Zoom Kevlar clutch I'm running; it's a bit more finicky at first (until you get used to it) than an organic material clutch, but it GRIPS like crazy! (good for 700hp) 
Oh yea, don't cheap out on the flywheel, at least get the stock one resurfaced if it's not already fried/out of spec or you're asking for issues.
Oh yea, don't cheap out on the flywheel, at least get the stock one resurfaced if it's not already fried/out of spec or you're asking for issues.
10-25-2013, 02:36 PM
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Thanks guys for all your help. Went out to try SS RRR's suggestion and before I did I decided to pump the clutch up for a while and after I did it finally went In to gear! Major props to all you guys, you're a life saver.
10-28-2013, 05:54 PM
#11
I believe that the t56 also had done issues with the pads on the reverse fork bust off and naturally you don't get the full travel of the shifter throw. See if when you put it in reverse and hold the shifter tight to the reverse gear while easing out on the clutch if it will grab and hold reverse.
10-29-2013, 09:40 AM
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I believe that the t56 also had done issues with the pads on the reverse fork bust off and naturally you don't get the full travel of the shifter throw. See if when you put it in reverse and hold the shifter tight to the reverse gear while easing out on the clutch if it will grab and hold reverse.
10-29-2013, 10:35 PM
#14
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Oddly enough, only about 12k on the transmission.
If it is a clutch issue should reverse still engage if the car is off and then put in gear?
10-29-2013, 11:29 PM
#15
fix your hydraulics. you can buy a complete sealed system for around $125 from rockauto.com
just buying a slave or MC, depending on whatever is bad, means you need to bleed the hydraulics. On the LT1 sealed type this can be tricky but can be done. I have a McLeod (wilwood) MC and new stock slave and bench bleed it.