Installing opti and water pump drive seals
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Installing opti and water pump drive seals
I'm replacing my water pump drive seal (and opti seal while I'm in there) after being told that's probably the source of my oil leak. I've removed the old seals and I'm ready to put everything back together but I've heard the process can be tricky. I don't want to have to redo this in the future so can anyone who's done this repair before give me some tips on how to do it right? This webpage has been a help but I'm hoping someone can give me a little more detail or some color commentary. I remember someone was saying some of the seals should be lubricated and some shouldn't and that there's a trick to getting the wp drive seal in. Anything would be a help.
Thanks,
Dave M
Thanks,
Dave M
#2
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The w/p seal has to be lubricated in order for it to easily slide into place without getting damaged. The opti seal may come pre-greased. If it doesn't go ahead a put a little motor oil on it. Won't hurt it in the slightest. If you don't have a Sharpie available then you can use a socket as well.
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There are two o-rings on the opti and it appears there are two o-rings for the water pump shaft. My FelPro front timing cover gasket kit only came with two o-rings. Which two are they?
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It looks like I got it in without damage. I used a sharpie highlighter cap. And I used the o-rings on the opti. One of them was cut. Thanks for the help.
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Whoopsie. Even though they never leaked or were damaged I should have never oiled those seals from past installs. dammit Dammit DAMMIT!
But yes, if anyone have a touch of OCD then for that seal, install it dry if it states to do so.
But yes, if anyone have a touch of OCD then for that seal, install it dry if it states to do so.
#10
The answer is in the gasket box - not here. Yes u need to follow the instructions as the type of material or manufacturer was not posted. They could be FelPro or could not. They could be PTFE or could not.
The older rubber or nitrile seals used some oil before install - to prevent the dry material from getting friction burned/destroyed. Some new FelPro PTFE seals go on dry - they wipe some of their own material on the metal surface to fill the microscopic openings, make the seal and survive.
cardo
The older rubber or nitrile seals used some oil before install - to prevent the dry material from getting friction burned/destroyed. Some new FelPro PTFE seals go on dry - they wipe some of their own material on the metal surface to fill the microscopic openings, make the seal and survive.
cardo
#11
and Cardo is correct on describing PTFE seal
I don't know if the WP drive seal is also PTFE, but I have always installed it "dry".....and with the "tool"
Crank seal I oil.