Not an LSx...but S85 V10 BMW E30 M3 Build
#1
Not an LSx...but S85 V10 BMW E30 M3 Build
I know this isn't an LSx but I still would like to share this with others. It's will be a pretty intense build.
This swap is just getting underway and will be a little slow going as I am working on other swaps as well right now. The car showed up yesterday so I felt I should get the threads going. This car is being built for Steve for at Blunttech.com. He sells OEM and aftermarket parts...lots of BMW and VW. As well as many brands of performance parts.
As I build this car updates will come in this thread but they will come slightly earlier at the following URLS:
http://bmw.blunttech.com/ and on my site http://www.classicdaily.net
You can also follow updates as they happen on instagram @classicdaily
A quick overview of the build
88 E30 M3, DS on black
V10 S85 with 6 speed from a 2010 M5
Fortune Auto Coilovers
Completely rebuilt suspension
Big brakes (either will be Porsche 996 or brakes from a 135...hoping to go with 135 brakes but we will see what fits the best)
Engine will be run complete standalone with Megasquirt 3 Pro from DIY Autotune (launch control, etc etc)
A few pictures of what is going on so far....
Here is what it is going into.... this is it coming off the trailer last night and going into storage for a bit
S85 when I picked it up a few weeks ago
Back of my truck...
mmm
This swap is just getting underway and will be a little slow going as I am working on other swaps as well right now. The car showed up yesterday so I felt I should get the threads going. This car is being built for Steve for at Blunttech.com. He sells OEM and aftermarket parts...lots of BMW and VW. As well as many brands of performance parts.
As I build this car updates will come in this thread but they will come slightly earlier at the following URLS:
http://bmw.blunttech.com/ and on my site http://www.classicdaily.net
You can also follow updates as they happen on instagram @classicdaily
A quick overview of the build
88 E30 M3, DS on black
V10 S85 with 6 speed from a 2010 M5
Fortune Auto Coilovers
Completely rebuilt suspension
Big brakes (either will be Porsche 996 or brakes from a 135...hoping to go with 135 brakes but we will see what fits the best)
Engine will be run complete standalone with Megasquirt 3 Pro from DIY Autotune (launch control, etc etc)
A few pictures of what is going on so far....
Here is what it is going into.... this is it coming off the trailer last night and going into storage for a bit
S85 when I picked it up a few weeks ago
Back of my truck...
mmm
#3
Wow. Amazing project. Will follow on Instagram soon. You may know already but the 135 calipers have a phelonic plastic end on the piston that breaks off. If you get them you can buy the piston upgrade from racing brake. Looks like I might need to send my e90 to you for an ls swap when the time comes.
#5
Wow. Amazing project. Will follow on Instagram soon. You may know already but the 135 calipers have a phelonic plastic end on the piston that breaks off. If you get them you can buy the piston upgrade from racing brake. Looks like I might need to send my e90 to you for an ls swap when the time comes.
Sounds good on an e90 swap!
Trending Topics
#9
Long time no update but moving ahead now. Steve from Blunttech flew in for a couple days to rip it all apart. On to some pictures....
On the new lift...pulling brake booster and hood.
Pulled front subframe and struts
Deep in thought
Rear Subframe down...which was a bitch.
The 135 brakes fit inside the 17" throwing stars. The 135 rotors are a bit to deep tho. Going to have to look for some different rotors.
Just random under body pictures.
Pulling more out of the engine bay
The standard in engine bay photo
asleep until tomorrow...
On the new lift...pulling brake booster and hood.
Pulled front subframe and struts
Deep in thought
Rear Subframe down...which was a bitch.
The 135 brakes fit inside the 17" throwing stars. The 135 rotors are a bit to deep tho. Going to have to look for some different rotors.
Just random under body pictures.
Pulling more out of the engine bay
The standard in engine bay photo
asleep until tomorrow...
#13
#14
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
sick build you should post up on, www.r3vlimited.com would be lots of interested guys there.
#16
We are making the core support removable to make getting the engine in an out a lot easier.
We got an e46 M3 rotor to try the 145 brakes.
The engine is sitting on a pallet on wheels. So we tried rolling it in. Will need to lift it in with an engine puller but we wanted to try anyway.
As far as we can get it for now without pulling it off the pallet.
Cleaned up some of the surface rust on the bottom and put some POR on it.
Cleaning up the engine bay to make it a little nicer to work in.
End of the day...Steve is heading back home tomorrow.
We got an e46 M3 rotor to try the 145 brakes.
The engine is sitting on a pallet on wheels. So we tried rolling it in. Will need to lift it in with an engine puller but we wanted to try anyway.
As far as we can get it for now without pulling it off the pallet.
Cleaned up some of the surface rust on the bottom and put some POR on it.
Cleaning up the engine bay to make it a little nicer to work in.
End of the day...Steve is heading back home tomorrow.
#17
We have been doing lots of research looking for off the shelf rotors that will work with the 135 6 piston calipers on the E30 M3. The biggest issue with the M3 is there is VERY little clearance between the rotor and the tie rod. When you go with a really big rotor. The stock M3 rotor is very shallow, right around 40mm.
So after digging through lots and lots of different rotor specs for all different cars we think we have found something that will work. This rotor is 330mm by 28mm and NOT off a BMW. Once we know everything will work we will say what it is off of. We don't want misinformation out there. It is only 39mm deep so there is around 7mm of clearance at the tie rod.
Now this rotor will need some machining but it is close. The center bore will have to be opened up a little bit and the wheel studs will need to be ob-longed inward.
Ultra flat rotor.
Bolt holes are close...
Ground down the rub of the m3 bearing (will be replaced anyway) to be able to set the rotor flat against the hub.
Tie rod clearance
Need to make a bracket...
Mocking up in a 17" wheel
Now this wheel will not clear the caliper. If you look there is some wood stacked to get it to clear. So we will need a different wheel setup. There is around 22mm of "spacer" right now.
So after digging through lots and lots of different rotor specs for all different cars we think we have found something that will work. This rotor is 330mm by 28mm and NOT off a BMW. Once we know everything will work we will say what it is off of. We don't want misinformation out there. It is only 39mm deep so there is around 7mm of clearance at the tie rod.
Now this rotor will need some machining but it is close. The center bore will have to be opened up a little bit and the wheel studs will need to be ob-longed inward.
Ultra flat rotor.
Bolt holes are close...
Ground down the rub of the m3 bearing (will be replaced anyway) to be able to set the rotor flat against the hub.
Tie rod clearance
Need to make a bracket...
Mocking up in a 17" wheel
Now this wheel will not clear the caliper. If you look there is some wood stacked to get it to clear. So we will need a different wheel setup. There is around 22mm of "spacer" right now.
#18
Started fitting the s85 into the e30.
It is sitting a little high in these pictures.
This is a WIDE engine.
Looks like we will be able to keep AC. This is a street car afterall and will be driven.
The trans is tight in the tunnel but it fits so far without any adjustments. It might need a little opening up in a couple spots just to give good clearance but so far so good.
Might do something different with the heater hose connection to be able to push it back a little further and give a little more room here.
But it is pretty close to the firewall already.
The cat is built into the header and was hitting the bottom of the car. The plan was to cut them off anyway so off they go now.
These headers are equal length.
Inside the collector.
They dump in a nice location.
The main issue now is building a new subframe and/or modifing the oil pan to get everything to work.
You can also see the catless header here.
Steering shaft actually has a fairly direct shot. Might go to a smaller ujoint/shaft. Also something without the rubber flex disc.
It is sitting a little high in these pictures.
This is a WIDE engine.
Looks like we will be able to keep AC. This is a street car afterall and will be driven.
The trans is tight in the tunnel but it fits so far without any adjustments. It might need a little opening up in a couple spots just to give good clearance but so far so good.
Might do something different with the heater hose connection to be able to push it back a little further and give a little more room here.
But it is pretty close to the firewall already.
The cat is built into the header and was hitting the bottom of the car. The plan was to cut them off anyway so off they go now.
These headers are equal length.
Inside the collector.
They dump in a nice location.
The main issue now is building a new subframe and/or modifing the oil pan to get everything to work.
You can also see the catless header here.
Steering shaft actually has a fairly direct shot. Might go to a smaller ujoint/shaft. Also something without the rubber flex disc.
#19
The 135i hat is deeper than the same spec rotor for the E9X. If you can find the depth of E9X rotor hat you can see if it will be closer to what you need. Just visually though, I can tell it is no where as shallow as the un named rotor you have in the pic.
#20
So the subframe and oil pan want to live in the same spot. So what do we do....cut the oil pan? Move the subframe? Or a little of both? The plan is to go with modified subframe and cut oil pan.
First step is to build a jig to hold the subframe so once it's cut up it will still be in the same spot.
Made with 2.5" angle (might be a little over kill but I don't want anything to move)
Locating the steering rack. The rack MIGHT get moved forward slightly to allow for less cutting of the oil pan. That is why there are two locations. One about 3/4" forward.
Just random jig pics
Time to cut the subframe apart.
Back in the jig...
Next step is to bolt the subframe to the car and see where things start lining up. Also need to find some fittings for the steering rack as I want to move some of the lines to the front to give more room.
First step is to build a jig to hold the subframe so once it's cut up it will still be in the same spot.
Made with 2.5" angle (might be a little over kill but I don't want anything to move)
Locating the steering rack. The rack MIGHT get moved forward slightly to allow for less cutting of the oil pan. That is why there are two locations. One about 3/4" forward.
Just random jig pics
Time to cut the subframe apart.
Back in the jig...
Next step is to bolt the subframe to the car and see where things start lining up. Also need to find some fittings for the steering rack as I want to move some of the lines to the front to give more room.