multmigs

iTrader: (2)

I'll preface my latest dilema by once again saying "Thanks" to everyone on the forum here.
I'm trying to resurrect a 1994 Z28 which i bought when i was 22 years old and which i decided to perform a A4-M6 swap on 5 years ago which stumped me repeatedly and without help from here i would have probably scrapped.
This weeks problem is that finally with the car driveable i have made numerous short trips and all seems to work normally now except for the random times when the shifter gets stuck into 2nd gear and will not easily release. It makes no difference if the engine is running or not. Luckily enough with the position of it being back towards the driver I can pretty easily just hammer forward with the palm of my hand a couple good wacks and then it pops out and I can then select another gear and continue shifting without any problems in any other gears. The transmission was opened recently to correct another problem and install a HD 3/4 shifter fork I just wanted to check the whole thing in general since it was purchased used. All other internal parts are stock from what I know and saw and all looked very good condition as far as parts like the synchros etc. MC and Slave are all new and were prebleed prior to install, I do not see any leaking and clutch feels normal. Using Synchomesh trans oil which has less than 100 miles and a hurst shifter.

So What should i be doing besides once again remove trans and open up. I fear the answer will be that the stock plastic shifter pads are the culprit although again they appeared to be brand new and thus were not replaced.

big hammer

probably smashed a shift key. need stage 2 rebuild kit--- billet shift keys, bronze pads, etc.

http://www.texasdrivetrainperformanc...hp/t56-6-speed

69gto96z

iTrader: (13)

I had this happen on my car, except it got jammed into 4th. Once I finally got it out, it would grind going into 3rd and 4th every time. Drove it like this for about 3 years and it never stuck again.

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

i'm not sure why you said this, as i stated all parts inside were checked, looked very clean and new, i did go over what to upgrade with someone at www.thegearbox.com where i purchased the HD 3/4 shift fork and some other parts. They recommended i stay away from the bronze shifter pads since i had brand new looking OEM ones and don't intend to race the car but wanted longevity, apparently the bronze ones will wear out quicker and if not replaced and oil changed can lead to more damage. and the billet keys they said was overkill for my use also. I can't see how i broke a stock one already without some missed or grinding of gears and like I said I've not even put 100 miles on this combo since it was apart. I was wondering if the shifter itself could be the issue? maybe i should change it out for the stock one i have somewhere still?

97pontta

iTrader: (10)

I had trouble with my T56 getting stuck in 4th recently. It did it one day randomly and I did what you said, use the palm of your and and and whack it forward. It drove fine for a month or so until it got stuck again in 4th. This time is was in traffic and I had to drive 10 or so block to get to my house stuck in 4th. It turned out that the 2 of the shift keys were busted. They were the billet ones too. Had to pull the tranny and replace them. I was told that aggressive shifting can them to brake.

big hammer

the shift keys can break, just like that. one time I ran my car through the 1\4, shifted great. went to pull it out of 4th when I wanted to turn around and it was stuck. that was it. smashed keys. didn't miss a gear or grind.

multmigs

iTrader: (2)

anyone want to chime in as to which keys i should buy since that seems to be the answer? the ones from thegearbox.org are $90 for all 6 and the TDP version $90 for 3? why the big difference?

97pontta

iTrader: (10)

I'm not sure why the difference in price. I have been told that some places are using powdered metal keys and calling them billet, and that the powdered metal keys tend to break much easier than the billet tool steel ones. I had RPM transmissions go through my T-56 back in July of this year and they replaced all the keys with theirs. They were good to work with, quick turn-around and it's been working fine for the past 4000 miles, which include a lot of aggressive driving.

Jeremy@RPMTransmissions

iTrader: (12)

It could be the keys. But first off get the synchromesh transmission fluid out of it. T56 transmissions aren't designed to use synchromesh. They are designed for ATF. Use some Amsoil synthetic ATF. This may not help your gear stick issue but it will help the transmission shift better over all and lengthen its life.

1hotlt1

iTrader: (1)

I was having the same problem. Unplug one censor at it time and take for a drive hope it's one bad censor. Mine was the very top one can't remember the name but it was by the shifter. Good luck.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Mine got stuck in 1st, was never able to get it out, Mech said some keys slipped out or something, ending up putting a Viper spec tranny in it..