Ach1992880

So, compiled a rough list of what i'm going to be using in my swap. I'm planning on having to notch the crossmember for the f-body pan and am really hoping i can get it low enough to use the truck intake. I'm sure i can plan on adding another 50% on top of this for incidentals... but how's this look for a start?
Edit: the list changes so constantly that I don't find it useful.

I have:
2002 LQ9 with 80k original miles
Texas Speed 228r cam, 112 LSA
Texas Speed single beehive valve springs
Extreme automatics 4l60e stage 2, with custom 3k stall 9.5 converter
3.73 gears with Yukon Duragrip limited slip in 8.5" 10 bolt
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box
Classic Performance adjustable swap mounts with poly bushings
waiting for shipment of Holley 302-2 pan


I am going to be using:
Tanks, Inc tank, pump, sending unit
PSI Conversions harness
Speedhut gauges in stock location

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Have you considered the CTS-V pan? Cheaper and fits easier without notching the crossmember.
The Impala/caprice gas tank and racetronix pump works great and is also very cost effective.
I think I have pics of both in my build.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...442-build.html

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

The filter/ regulator is generally 35-40 on amazon.

Ach1992880

I've considered using the B Body tank, I'm back and forth on it. Doing some research it sounds like i'll be cutting the trunk whichever way I go with it. I haven't found, do you know if the resistance in the fuel sender in that tank is compatible with the fuel gauge in our older cars?

The cts-v pan, I'm trying to go as low as possible with the engine in an attempt to squeeze the truck intake under the hood making me concerned about it hanging below the crossmember. Maybe that's being overly cautious, I am pretty easy on the car, so maybe it won't really be an issue at all. Any ideas on where I should look for a cts-v pan/pickup for a good price?

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

The resistance of the sender is the same.
You don't need a lot of clearance for the B body fuel tank outlet. I contemplated a couple rubber spacers (rubber coil spring spacers, Autozone) at the front of the tank and not cutting the trunk.
I found a new takeoff CTS-V pan/pickup, dipstick and tube on Pro-touring classified for $140. But check local craigslist, classifieds here, ebay.
There are 9 on ebay now for $129, buy it now.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LSA-oil-pan-kit-LS1-LS2-LS3-LS6-LQ4-LY6-LSA-6-0L-5-7L-6-2L-Automotive-Rear-sump-/221303115725?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3386b18fcd&vxp=mtr

tmcmillan5

iTrader: (1)

I think the Truck intake should be ok for you,mine seems to be low enough though I do not have my hood on yet. I used the F body pan and I did notch out my cross member for pan clearance and to bring my engine further forward.Check out some of my old post for pictures. B body tank hangs low if you can live with that but it does fit.

Fuel line fittings check out neverenoughauto.com or on ebay Great prices!

Tony

Ach1992880

By the way, i've read your build multiple times... beautifully done! This is beyond anything i've tackled in the past, so I'm lucky to have such a great resource at hand. The car is up in the air now, and the engine will be coming out in the next week or so. Compiling parts will take me a few months, but i'll post what I can when I start making progress.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I cracked my CTS-V last year... it hung about 1" below the crossmember.. I had been hitting sped bump, road junk and stuff for years.. I finally hit a deep road transition and cracked it... if you going to lower the engine and the car, if stock height.. you will be ok. .. I would not recommend it.. but that is just me...

I am also using a B-Body tank.. you can see my swap by following the link in my sig.

BC

Cutlass Convert

I used the Holley swap pan, and would recomend it. Set down as low as I thought reasonable it still doesn't hang below the cross member. (My transmission is another storry, and hangs down pretty low.)

I ended up making my own motor mounts, by setting a .5" piece of plywood on the cross member and welding up some mounts at that height. I run the truck intake and accessories and it clears under my stock 68 Cutlass hood.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I your got a A-Body.. recommend you wait for the new version that should be out anytime now... it has a shallower front sump area and will give better clearance for the Tie Rod ends...

BC

Ach1992880

I did read your heads-up about the "new" holley pan. It'll be a while before I'm ready to drop the engine in, so maybe in a few more months once I have the fuel system figured out and all of the other odds and ends lined up I will see if it's been released.

I've put the B-body tank on the radar. I've gone through the rear end and suspension and did install a recreation W-27 diff cover, it all looks good from behind so I don't know if I want to hide it behind a big black plastic tank.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

You'll still get to see half the dif.


And here's the CTS-V on 1" setback mounts. I'm running standard ride height and don't plan on 4 wheeling, so I'm not too concerned about damaging it.

Ach1992880

that tank doesn't hang down as far as I thought it might. Definitely wouldn't want to space it down any further in the front though. That'd save me a couple hundred if I can get one thrown together, if it's above single digits here in Omaha this weekend i'll be heading to a yard.

Stock ride height for me too, stock 14" SSII wheels, tires are a little lower profile than I would have personally bought, but they have plenty of tread left so they'll get replaced when they need it. Should have enough room for the CTS-V pan to live without banging off of things, I'll keep an open mind and look for the best deal I can find. Nice to know there are a couple options.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

The ebay deal on the $129 pans is pretty good, I would jump on that now.
On the tank, be sure to get the pump assembly/sender, straps, even the filler tube.
I had to make new straps, but I've heard the Impala ones will work. On the filler neck, you'll need one with a vent tube.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

For oil pans, look at the Mast pan, Holley pan or the Autokraft pan. I have the Mast pan and it is great. For your fuel tank, look at the new Aeromotive system/kit. Also, look at the dirty dingo motor mounts. The adjustability may come in handy.

Ach1992880

that is a killer price on the pan! Finger on the trigger here, any advice on whether I'd be able to use the truck dipstick tube/windage tray with that pan?

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

I see a lot of builds where people are all about the cheap oil pan only to turn into sad stories about broken oil pans later. Just sayin'.

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Not sure, mine came with a dipstick. But either fill it with 6 quarts, remark the dipstick. Or I think the tube and dipstick was only about $20 at the dealer, buy a new one.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Tank doesn't hang that low..




As far as the CTS-V pan. .i have been scraping Asphalt from speed bumps for years.. At first i didn't think it would be an issue.. but it turned into on.. Just saying...

BC

Ach1992880

Sounds like Saturday is going to be a busy day picking parts at the yard. You have all convinced me to go the route of a B body tank, so i'll be hunting for one and will be sure to get straps and everything I can with it. I know there are a couple of grand cherokees there too, so steering box is on the list. From the research I've done i need the rag joint from a late 80's Silverado to adapt to my steering? Windstar fans are on the list too. It's not going to be a terribly expensive trip, but will bring me into the reality that this is going to happen.

Also, the CTS-V pan is out. I'm going to be either using a Holley pan or an F-body setup. I'm leaning towards the F pan just from what I read here about having better clearance for tie rod interference. Like I mentioned, I'm not afraid to notch the frame, I am good enough with a cutoff disc and my buddy is a union steamfitter so I'm sure he'll toss in a decent weld as long as there's beer in the garage for afterwards.

Should I plan now on moving the stock brake junction block and running all new lines? I'm anticipating header clearance issues, but I know that I'm going to have to pull out the hot wrench and brute force to get those ebay specials to fit anyway so maybe I can pursuade them far enough away.