Nissan 300zx Build - LQ9 with S475
01-05-2014, 08:08 PM
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Nissan 300zx Build - LQ9 with S475 Alright, so awhile back I had an EXTENSIVE engine build through Mitch @ ******** on a VG. Financial issues caused me to sell it and after seeing all of the money that I had to dump into that motor to "build" it and I still didn't have a good power adder setup, I decided to move to the LSx platform.
This thread will serve as my build thread as well as a forum for me to post any related questions.
My goal is 600rwhp/675ftlb at low boost... around 5-8psi.
The setup will be as follows. Some things may change and will be added, but for the most part, if I know it, it is listed below:
GM Gen III LQ9 with 10:1CR 345hp/380ftlb.
INTAKE: Stock LS6 intake with 100mm TB and 3 Bar MAP sensor
_____ pound injectors
HEADS: GM Stock 317 Heads with PRC Spring kit good to .600 lift and hardened pushrods (Chamber: 71.06cc, Intake: 210cc, Exhaust: 75cc, Intake)
Valve: 2.00", Exhaust Valve 1.55". ARP Head Studs. GM LS9 7-Layer MLS Headgasket
BLOCK:Stock block with stock internals - 6.0 (LQ9) 364ci 4.00 bore/3.622 stroke 10.0CR 6.098 Rod Length. JEGS +/-8* Adjustable Double Roller Timing Gear Set. Summit 6QT. Hot Rod Oil Pan for conversions. ARP Rod Bolts. NEW Piston Rings gapped for boost
CAMSHAFT - 204/211 .525 lift 116.5 lsa (I will be going to a custom grind for my turbo application and upgrading to a ported set of 317 heads down the road to optimize performance) Currently I have NO camshaft, and I figured the LS6 would be a DECENT match for a turbo cam, though nowhere near good specs.
TURBO: Borg Warner S475 - 96mm @ 1.32AR
5" In/Out Plumbing, reducing to 3" at the intercooler (unless I can get a custom IC fabbed up for a good cost)
Custom turbo manifold crossover system for single turbo application
CXRacing Single 3" In/Out Front Mount Intercooler
Undetermined Wastegate/Blow off Valve Setup, Likely 46mm wastegate with a 50mm bov
FUEL: In line dual Walbro 255lph pumps with a Summit filter and Aeromotive ______ boost referenced fuel pressure regulator. Secondary Walbro will be set up to be activated under boost using a Hobbs switch
SPARK: Stock LQ9 coils with MSD plug wires. The OEM coils have a heatsink to allow for better dissipation over other platform coils.
TRANSMISSION: I WANT to go with a T56/TR6060 for the from-the-factory power capacity, but due to the high dollar swaps are placing on them, I may end up going with a basic 4L80E until I can find a cheap core to build for the power.
I'm sure I've forgotten a lot of stuff, but this is the jist of the build plans for now. There will be changes as it progresses and I run into constraints, issues and finances, but this is what I'm looking to go to.
I'm trying to currently decide whether or not I want to bore the block out to 4.030" and run a forged piston/rod setup, but that'll be an additional $1400 or so, and I'm currently just trying to get this thing back together and on the road.
This thread will serve as my build thread as well as a forum for me to post any related questions.
My goal is 600rwhp/675ftlb at low boost... around 5-8psi.
The setup will be as follows. Some things may change and will be added, but for the most part, if I know it, it is listed below:
GM Gen III LQ9 with 10:1CR 345hp/380ftlb.
INTAKE: Stock LS6 intake with 100mm TB and 3 Bar MAP sensor
_____ pound injectors
HEADS: GM Stock 317 Heads with PRC Spring kit good to .600 lift and hardened pushrods (Chamber: 71.06cc, Intake: 210cc, Exhaust: 75cc, Intake)
Valve: 2.00", Exhaust Valve 1.55". ARP Head Studs. GM LS9 7-Layer MLS Headgasket
BLOCK:Stock block with stock internals - 6.0 (LQ9) 364ci 4.00 bore/3.622 stroke 10.0CR 6.098 Rod Length. JEGS +/-8* Adjustable Double Roller Timing Gear Set. Summit 6QT. Hot Rod Oil Pan for conversions. ARP Rod Bolts. NEW Piston Rings gapped for boost
CAMSHAFT - 204/211 .525 lift 116.5 lsa (I will be going to a custom grind for my turbo application and upgrading to a ported set of 317 heads down the road to optimize performance) Currently I have NO camshaft, and I figured the LS6 would be a DECENT match for a turbo cam, though nowhere near good specs.
TURBO: Borg Warner S475 - 96mm @ 1.32AR
5" In/Out Plumbing, reducing to 3" at the intercooler (unless I can get a custom IC fabbed up for a good cost)
Custom turbo manifold crossover system for single turbo application
CXRacing Single 3" In/Out Front Mount Intercooler
Undetermined Wastegate/Blow off Valve Setup, Likely 46mm wastegate with a 50mm bov
FUEL: In line dual Walbro 255lph pumps with a Summit filter and Aeromotive ______ boost referenced fuel pressure regulator. Secondary Walbro will be set up to be activated under boost using a Hobbs switch
SPARK: Stock LQ9 coils with MSD plug wires. The OEM coils have a heatsink to allow for better dissipation over other platform coils.
TRANSMISSION: I WANT to go with a T56/TR6060 for the from-the-factory power capacity, but due to the high dollar swaps are placing on them, I may end up going with a basic 4L80E until I can find a cheap core to build for the power.
I'm sure I've forgotten a lot of stuff, but this is the jist of the build plans for now. There will be changes as it progresses and I run into constraints, issues and finances, but this is what I'm looking to go to.
I'm trying to currently decide whether or not I want to bore the block out to 4.030" and run a forged piston/rod setup, but that'll be an additional $1400 or so, and I'm currently just trying to get this thing back together and on the road.
01-05-2014, 10:12 PM
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Apparently there is a swap kit for the 300zx, but the price is astronomical...
http://www.lojinnovations.com/index.htm
$2600... for the swap kit. I'm good. =/
Question. This block spun one of the inner camshaft bearings which I found is common and is easily fixed by line boring (or honing, cant remember which) the bore to the largest outer diameter cam bearing sizes and using all of the same size bearings throughout.
I found out that my #1 journal measures 60mm. Can I buy any 60mm bearing for this?
http://www.lojinnovations.com/index.htm
$2600... for the swap kit. I'm good. =/
Question. This block spun one of the inner camshaft bearings which I found is common and is easily fixed by line boring (or honing, cant remember which) the bore to the largest outer diameter cam bearing sizes and using all of the same size bearings throughout.
I found out that my #1 journal measures 60mm. Can I buy any 60mm bearing for this?
01-06-2014, 07:54 PM
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Quick poll: I was going to go with the 76mm S475, but a few individuals told me that the 96mm would be better suited for the planned setup.
What do you turbo heads think? Will the 96mm take too long to spool and make the drivability poor? This car will see the streets, and it won't be sprayed or anything.
What do you turbo heads think? Will the 96mm take too long to spool and make the drivability poor? This car will see the streets, and it won't be sprayed or anything.
01-07-2014, 08:04 PM
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So, good news is within 21 days, I will have an extra $1200 or so to play with due to winning a case I brought against a former employer for thinking it was alright to not pay me for a few weeks.
I'll be picking up all of the gaskets and stuff I need to put it all together, as well as starting on getting the block and heads worked.
I found a set of used 4.030" Pistons mounted to rods already, however, the part number he has lists the pistons as a 4032 alloy, which I am reading is quite scary for FI applications. I may just buy a new ring kit and call it good for the time being if the bores can be cleaned up and still use the stock 4.000" LQ9 pistons. My CR will be a lot high for running a turbo setup, so I'll have to run really carefully if I decide to make this thing boosted out of the gate. I am beginning to think I'll take my time on boosting it though so I can enjoy the NA and FI difference, so tempting not to wait though....
Literally the only things that I need to purchase to get this motor together after the machine work are new bearings all around (which I am going to have the machine shop recommend and then do my price scouring), new piston rings, hardened pushrods, and the GMPP Front Accessory kit for a Corvette... it's pricey, but comes with all new components, pulleys, mounting hardware and belts. I believe I have to buy a water pump and a harmonic balancer, but I have a connection at a GM parts counter that should be able to get me set up.
Still needing to get over to the storage and put the front crossmember together and get all of that **** straightened out so I can mount the block up and work on situating it in the engine bay. I'd really like to do so prior to all of the nice machine work and filling the holes so I don't mess anything up that has to be reworked to fix.
While all of the interior is out, I am working on running all of the electrical, but that's a damn headache I just don't want to deal with right now. Once I get the front crossmember and rear subframe situated completely, and all of the suspension components are installed, I will be so much happier with where I am in this build.
I'll be picking up all of the gaskets and stuff I need to put it all together, as well as starting on getting the block and heads worked.
I found a set of used 4.030" Pistons mounted to rods already, however, the part number he has lists the pistons as a 4032 alloy, which I am reading is quite scary for FI applications. I may just buy a new ring kit and call it good for the time being if the bores can be cleaned up and still use the stock 4.000" LQ9 pistons. My CR will be a lot high for running a turbo setup, so I'll have to run really carefully if I decide to make this thing boosted out of the gate. I am beginning to think I'll take my time on boosting it though so I can enjoy the NA and FI difference, so tempting not to wait though....
Literally the only things that I need to purchase to get this motor together after the machine work are new bearings all around (which I am going to have the machine shop recommend and then do my price scouring), new piston rings, hardened pushrods, and the GMPP Front Accessory kit for a Corvette... it's pricey, but comes with all new components, pulleys, mounting hardware and belts. I believe I have to buy a water pump and a harmonic balancer, but I have a connection at a GM parts counter that should be able to get me set up.
Still needing to get over to the storage and put the front crossmember together and get all of that **** straightened out so I can mount the block up and work on situating it in the engine bay. I'd really like to do so prior to all of the nice machine work and filling the holes so I don't mess anything up that has to be reworked to fix.
While all of the interior is out, I am working on running all of the electrical, but that's a damn headache I just don't want to deal with right now. Once I get the front crossmember and rear subframe situated completely, and all of the suspension components are installed, I will be so much happier with where I am in this build.
01-07-2014, 08:53 PM
#6
I'm looking forward to this. I was thinking about getting a z32 to swap and turn into a road racer. Few questions.
Why dual in-line walbros? Running them parallel or in series? Internal or external?
Btw, that $2600 dollar LS swap kit isn't needed, depending on your goals for the car. All you'll really need is the motor mounts/oil pan. The transmission related stuff is useless, since it doesn't seem you're going to use the stock z32 transmission anyway. Thats probably $1000 of the cost right there. Then there are the accessory adapters. Unless you feel the NEED to use all of the stock 300zx accessories (or if you even have them), then this can be done away with too. Its just to adapt the factory AC/PS pumps and alternator onto the LS engine. I say use the LS alternator and ditch the rest until the car is at least running/driving. Thats probably another $800 saved right there. You can probably get the engine mounts and oil pan from them for $800 or less.
4032 Alloy pistons aren't bad for a street car. The stock pistons/rods can handle 800 HP, so almost ANY forged upgrade is only going to be an improvement from there on up.
Why dual in-line walbros? Running them parallel or in series? Internal or external?
Btw, that $2600 dollar LS swap kit isn't needed, depending on your goals for the car. All you'll really need is the motor mounts/oil pan. The transmission related stuff is useless, since it doesn't seem you're going to use the stock z32 transmission anyway. Thats probably $1000 of the cost right there. Then there are the accessory adapters. Unless you feel the NEED to use all of the stock 300zx accessories (or if you even have them), then this can be done away with too. Its just to adapt the factory AC/PS pumps and alternator onto the LS engine. I say use the LS alternator and ditch the rest until the car is at least running/driving. Thats probably another $800 saved right there. You can probably get the engine mounts and oil pan from them for $800 or less.
4032 Alloy pistons aren't bad for a street car. The stock pistons/rods can handle 800 HP, so almost ANY forged upgrade is only going to be an improvement from there on up.
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01-08-2014, 08:04 PM
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I'm looking forward to this. I was thinking about getting a z32 to swap and turn into a road racer. Few questions.
Why dual in-line walbros? Running them parallel or in series? Internal or external?
Btw, that $2600 dollar LS swap kit isn't needed, depending on your goals for the car. All you'll really need is the motor mounts/oil pan. The transmission related stuff is useless, since it doesn't seem you're going to use the stock z32 transmission anyway. Thats probably $1000 of the cost right there. Then there are the accessory adapters. Unless you feel the NEED to use all of the stock 300zx accessories (or if you even have them), then this can be done away with too. Its just to adapt the factory AC/PS pumps and alternator onto the LS engine. I say use the LS alternator and ditch the rest until the car is at least running/driving. Thats probably another $800 saved right there. You can probably get the engine mounts and oil pan from them for $800 or less.
4032 Alloy pistons aren't bad for a street car. The stock pistons/rods can handle 800 HP, so almost ANY forged upgrade is only going to be an improvement from there on up.
Why dual in-line walbros? Running them parallel or in series? Internal or external?
Btw, that $2600 dollar LS swap kit isn't needed, depending on your goals for the car. All you'll really need is the motor mounts/oil pan. The transmission related stuff is useless, since it doesn't seem you're going to use the stock z32 transmission anyway. Thats probably $1000 of the cost right there. Then there are the accessory adapters. Unless you feel the NEED to use all of the stock 300zx accessories (or if you even have them), then this can be done away with too. Its just to adapt the factory AC/PS pumps and alternator onto the LS engine. I say use the LS alternator and ditch the rest until the car is at least running/driving. Thats probably another $800 saved right there. You can probably get the engine mounts and oil pan from them for $800 or less.
4032 Alloy pistons aren't bad for a street car. The stock pistons/rods can handle 800 HP, so almost ANY forged upgrade is only going to be an improvement from there on up.
The entire kit I know I do not need, but I still feel $350 for the motor mount solution is pretty steep. They do not look very strong IMO and if I am going to be holding 500-700lbs of **** over a hole that I dumped money into... I want it to at least look strong to me. The accessory drive will be GM Part 19155067. I am working on figuring out the best water pump to run with it as well as determining which balancer I will need to run.
I had an email into Mahle about the castings and the man who replied said that it was an extremely unsuitable material for even naturally aspirated, let alone forced induction in LSx applications, and he strongly advised against my use.
Sadly, I believe that I have decided to hold off on boosting the car until it is up and running reliably. This will give me two stages to handle everything PROPERLY, which is most important. I don't want to half *** this and want to change stuff out later. It will also give me time to recoup finances, and actually PLAN out how I want to integrate the turbo components. I still plan to go with the BW S475, but will be doing more research on the size as I am hearing a few advise against going with a 96mm. I am also not too familiar with wastegate and BOV selection, and this is something which I need to spend more time researching.
In related news - I purchased a set of up and forward turbo headers instead of hacking up the truck headers I have. I will be able to mock them up and situate a crossover prior to getting the actual turbo... however, I wish I could have the turbo since the damn thing is 12" long and weighs 45lbs....
thats disgustingly huge 
)
01-09-2014, 06:08 PM
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About to pull the trigger on all of my gaskets, LS3 Harmonic Balancer, LS3 Water Pump, BTR 7.400 Chromoly Pushrods, OEM 1.7 Rocker Arms, and a Comp Cams Trunnion Upgrade Kit.
Waiting on some more prices for a total and then I'm in
Nothing came in the mail today - I'm pretty bummed. I'm waiting for an Autometer Speedo, LS6 Camshaft, LS7 Lifters and a few other goodies. Ready to bring this down and get the block worked.
Before I do that, I think I am going to strip the block bare and bring it and my cherry picker over to storage and see how it will look and take some photos of what needs to happen as far as mounting. Some have talked about recessing the firewall and rebuilding it with newly formed sheet metal, and to gain the extra couple extra inches at the front of the bay, I think it may be something I look into. I have access to sheet metal as well as pressbrakes to get nice bends... but that is all still up in the air. I REALLY want the bay to be as open, shaved, and clean as possible.
Heheh.... I guess she will be a fair lady if her bay is open, shaved, and clean XD
As I said above, I just purchased a speedometer to go with my tachometer. I am wanting a nice and clean install of all of the gauges to prevent some Fast and Furious theme from happening. I planned to have a custom insert cut out of 1/8" aluminum that I would "brush" with a Scotchbrite to dull the shiny finish a bit. I planned to have a 2x 60mm gauges to the left and right of my speedo and tachometer.
I thought that I would have enough room to mount dual 5" gauges, but it appears that I am going to have to go with their 3 3/8" line up. My reason for attempting to go with such large speedometer and tachometer gauges was that I wanted to keep away from a broken apart look.
I'm getting anxious to get the interior back together and in the vehicle because that's a large step and it's something that I can essentially do for free (though I am sure some things may need to be replaced or sourced.)
Will keep y'all up to date on progress, though I will be out of town for a little bit coming up.
Waiting on some more prices for a total and then I'm in
Nothing came in the mail today - I'm pretty bummed. I'm waiting for an Autometer Speedo, LS6 Camshaft, LS7 Lifters and a few other goodies. Ready to bring this down and get the block worked.
Before I do that, I think I am going to strip the block bare and bring it and my cherry picker over to storage and see how it will look and take some photos of what needs to happen as far as mounting. Some have talked about recessing the firewall and rebuilding it with newly formed sheet metal, and to gain the extra couple extra inches at the front of the bay, I think it may be something I look into. I have access to sheet metal as well as pressbrakes to get nice bends... but that is all still up in the air. I REALLY want the bay to be as open, shaved, and clean as possible.
Heheh.... I guess she will be a fair lady if her bay is open, shaved, and clean XD
As I said above, I just purchased a speedometer to go with my tachometer. I am wanting a nice and clean install of all of the gauges to prevent some Fast and Furious theme from happening. I planned to have a custom insert cut out of 1/8" aluminum that I would "brush" with a Scotchbrite to dull the shiny finish a bit. I planned to have a 2x 60mm gauges to the left and right of my speedo and tachometer.
I thought that I would have enough room to mount dual 5" gauges, but it appears that I am going to have to go with their 3 3/8" line up. My reason for attempting to go with such large speedometer and tachometer gauges was that I wanted to keep away from a broken apart look.
I'm getting anxious to get the interior back together and in the vehicle because that's a large step and it's something that I can essentially do for free (though I am sure some things may need to be replaced or sourced.)
Will keep y'all up to date on progress, though I will be out of town for a little bit coming up.
08-21-2014, 07:03 PM
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An update... So... I haven't updated because I haven't done ANYTHING. Still gathering parts. The former employer I sued is dodging paying me like the sad man he is, and I had a temporary financial burden due to buying a parts car and some medical stuff.
Anyhow, I'm back at it and going full speed. The parts car has afforded me to generate what I am considering fully usable income for my build, and it's currently doing quite well
Still trying to source my gaskets. Fuel plans changed a bit. I just purchased a Dual Walbro parallel setup and I will be using the Walbro I currently have as a boost referenced pump. Planning to run some Five-O Black Ops 1400cc Injectors which will be good for 1600cc @ 4 bar, which will be sufficient for a little growing room on E85...
Planning on moving to a BW S475 96mm/1.10 turbocharger for sure. Now I just need to figure out what to do for my WG and BOV. I currently have an offer for Tial 60mm WG and 50mm BOV for $750 shipped... trying to figure out how good of a deal it really is. It's about $125 off, with shipping from the first retailer I clicked on. I am sure I could save more if I allowed my Jewness to kick in.
With the parts car, I was able to pull a full subframe and front crossmember. This is a big point because with my subframe and crossmember, I have all of the parts... but I cannot for the life of me remember how everything bolts up. So, in the near future, I will be having a swap fest and moving parts from the parts frames to my frames. The parts car also came with some SWEET Tein EDFC suspension so I will be able to adjust on the fly.
Going to be hitting up one of my co-workers for a cage install as well. Thinking an 8 point would be more than sufficient.
All in all, the parts car gave me the drive and financial stability I needed to get to work on mine. I will be working to shave my bay and paint it as well before I install the crossmember. My desire to make everything clean and new again will make this project go extra slow, but I believe the end result will be well worth it.
Anyhow, I'm back at it and going full speed. The parts car has afforded me to generate what I am considering fully usable income for my build, and it's currently doing quite well
Still trying to source my gaskets. Fuel plans changed a bit. I just purchased a Dual Walbro parallel setup and I will be using the Walbro I currently have as a boost referenced pump. Planning to run some Five-O Black Ops 1400cc Injectors which will be good for 1600cc @ 4 bar, which will be sufficient for a little growing room on E85...
Planning on moving to a BW S475 96mm/1.10 turbocharger for sure. Now I just need to figure out what to do for my WG and BOV. I currently have an offer for Tial 60mm WG and 50mm BOV for $750 shipped... trying to figure out how good of a deal it really is. It's about $125 off, with shipping from the first retailer I clicked on. I am sure I could save more if I allowed my Jewness to kick in.
With the parts car, I was able to pull a full subframe and front crossmember. This is a big point because with my subframe and crossmember, I have all of the parts... but I cannot for the life of me remember how everything bolts up. So, in the near future, I will be having a swap fest and moving parts from the parts frames to my frames. The parts car also came with some SWEET Tein EDFC suspension so I will be able to adjust on the fly.
Going to be hitting up one of my co-workers for a cage install as well. Thinking an 8 point would be more than sufficient.
All in all, the parts car gave me the drive and financial stability I needed to get to work on mine. I will be working to shave my bay and paint it as well before I install the crossmember. My desire to make everything clean and new again will make this project go extra slow, but I believe the end result will be well worth it.
08-22-2014, 07:30 AM
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Apparently there is a swap kit for the 300zx, but the price is astronomical...
http://www.lojinnovations.com/index.htm
$2600... for the swap kit. I'm good. =/
http://www.lojinnovations.com/index.htm
$2600... for the swap kit. I'm good. =/
Looking forward to seeing your progress.
08-22-2014, 09:02 AM
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The VG transmission is riddled with issues unless you drop $2k for 1999 Japan spec transmission. The 3rd synchro gear is NOTORIOUS for grinding and chipping teeth. I'd much rather move to a T56 or 4/6L80e than stick with the Nissan transmission.
But that swap kit makes everything SOOOOO much easier and cheaper because it uses the z32 transmission instead of having to foot another $XXXX for a T56 trans. Well worth it in my opinion. It's pretty much inline with all the other swap kits for other cars.
Looking forward to seeing your progress.
Looking forward to seeing your progress.
08-23-2014, 01:16 AM
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So... my buddy (who is as into this build as I am) recommended I go with the following cheapo turbo kit for the time being to get the car runnning and operating, and once it breaks, or I have extra funds moving to the S475.
Thoughts?
http://www.vsracing.net/catalog/prod...oducts_id=1320
Go!
Thoughts?
http://www.vsracing.net/catalog/prod...oducts_id=1320
Go!
08-24-2014, 02:09 AM
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Figured ya'll may want to actually see my rice burner, so, here you go!
I finally had a chance to "wash" her the other day... pressure washed after 4 years does well to remove dirt and grind it against the paint really well. It's currently Pearl White, but I plan to go Ultrasonic Blue Mica (8U1) with a set of Miro 398 wheels... Kind of weary on the rating of the wheel though... I'd hate to snap through the hub of my rears.
And the 8U1 <3
I finally had a chance to "wash" her the other day... pressure washed after 4 years does well to remove dirt and grind it against the paint really well. It's currently Pearl White, but I plan to go Ultrasonic Blue Mica (8U1) with a set of Miro 398 wheels... Kind of weary on the rating of the wheel though... I'd hate to snap through the hub of my rears.
And the 8U1 <3
08-25-2014, 11:24 AM
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Yeah I know Nissan has a problem with syncs period. Had a 2002 Maxima 6 speed. Would crunch into 3rd gear if I was really getting on it all the time. Sucks. Haven't had that problem in the Z32.....YET.
08-25-2014, 02:29 PM
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I've been hearing the transmission stories for years, and what I think 95% of people fail to realize is that a 10-15 year old transmission with 100k+ miles on it, that likely never had it's fluid changed and has been drived "spiritedly" its whole life WILL have syncro issues. A T56 with the same mileage and use would as well. Syncros are designed to wear. Anyone who has driven a low mileage or recently rebuilt Z32 transmission knows just how slick they can be.
08-25-2014, 07:55 PM
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I've been hearing the transmission stories for years, and what I think 95% of people fail to realize is that a 10-15 year old transmission with 100k+ miles on it, that likely never had it's fluid changed and has been drived "spiritedly" its whole life WILL have syncro issues. A T56 with the same mileage and use would as well. Syncros are designed to wear. Anyone who has driven a low mileage or recently rebuilt Z32 transmission knows just how slick they can be.
UPDATE:
Ironically, I got a steal of a deal on a 2005 Silverado 2500 2WD 4L80E today... With 90K miles, I got it for $500 with OEM torque converter. It must have been cleaned by the owner, because the casing is in perfect condition... if not, I got an even better deal than I thought.
Just to make sure, I called the local salvage yards and was quoted around $1k for a 2WD 4L80E.
I don't really want to go automatic... but with a deal like that, it kind of made the decision for me. Aside from the fact that I know that the 4L80E can be built to hold some pretty good HP/TQ numbers.