Thoughts on my current build?
#1
Thoughts on my current build?
I've had my V for 6 months or so, and love the car to pieces. I've decided its time to start modifying.
Car had following mods when i purchased it long tube headers, hi flow cats, corsa exhaust, cold air intake, hotchkis sway bars, and the updated rear diff.
Since buying it i've installed the hurst short throw shifter, and i've already bought revshift diff bushings and cradle bushings, as well as g-force axles. I've also bought some new rotors/ceramic pads.
This is where i've gotten hung up on what my next step is. And i believe i've finally decided what route to go. Build plans are:
-Lunati 4" stroke forged crank
-Lunati 6.125 H-beam with arp2000 rod bolts
-Weisco -8cc pistons
-Clevite main/rod bearings
-ARP Head Studs
-Stock LS6 heads
-Custom spec'd cam
-Precision .650 dual spring kit
-Comp Chromoly pushrods
-LS7 Lifters
-Trunion rockers
-Cloyes double roller timing set
-Billet Fuel Rail
-60lb injectors
-Stock LS6 intake
Goals are to build a mid 400 rwhp car, sitting somewhere around 9.5 or 10:1 compression.
Originally i was planning on going with a fast 102/102 and a set of AFR230 or TSP 2.5 heads. But have put those on hold because next winter i want to add a D1SC with somewhere around 12-14 psi.
Obviously, if i run a blower cam now, it wont be performing optimal until i add the blower. So i'm considering going ahead and putting more of an aggressive street cam into it for now. Then next year when i add the blower swap the cam.
Would you go with 60lb injectors or would you go ahead and run 80lb ones knowing that next year i'll be wanting somewhere north of 650 rwhp.
Car had following mods when i purchased it long tube headers, hi flow cats, corsa exhaust, cold air intake, hotchkis sway bars, and the updated rear diff.
Since buying it i've installed the hurst short throw shifter, and i've already bought revshift diff bushings and cradle bushings, as well as g-force axles. I've also bought some new rotors/ceramic pads.
This is where i've gotten hung up on what my next step is. And i believe i've finally decided what route to go. Build plans are:
-Lunati 4" stroke forged crank
-Lunati 6.125 H-beam with arp2000 rod bolts
-Weisco -8cc pistons
-Clevite main/rod bearings
-ARP Head Studs
-Stock LS6 heads
-Custom spec'd cam
-Precision .650 dual spring kit
-Comp Chromoly pushrods
-LS7 Lifters
-Trunion rockers
-Cloyes double roller timing set
-Billet Fuel Rail
-60lb injectors
-Stock LS6 intake
Goals are to build a mid 400 rwhp car, sitting somewhere around 9.5 or 10:1 compression.
Originally i was planning on going with a fast 102/102 and a set of AFR230 or TSP 2.5 heads. But have put those on hold because next winter i want to add a D1SC with somewhere around 12-14 psi.
Obviously, if i run a blower cam now, it wont be performing optimal until i add the blower. So i'm considering going ahead and putting more of an aggressive street cam into it for now. Then next year when i add the blower swap the cam.
Would you go with 60lb injectors or would you go ahead and run 80lb ones knowing that next year i'll be wanting somewhere north of 650 rwhp.
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (18)
First thing id do is pull the gforce axles and sell them in favor of either their 8.8/9" kit from gforce or creative steel.
After that it probably wouldnt hurt to throw the blower on the stock engine. A lot of guys are making 600-650rwhp with pretty good reliability.
After that it probably wouldnt hurt to throw the blower on the stock engine. A lot of guys are making 600-650rwhp with pretty good reliability.
#3
I've considered buying a blower and installing it now, but i'm a pretty firm believer in building the engine now to prevent catastrophic failure down the road. It will cost a lot less to forge and build the bottom end now, then if a rod lets go and totals the block.
Plus i dont know the history of the engine, so i'd much rather be safe.
As for the G-force axles, are they not worth much? got mine literally dirt cheap. And this car will be a street car, not drag car. So no 5k clutch dumps or anything like that.
Plus i dont know the history of the engine, so i'd much rather be safe.
As for the G-force axles, are they not worth much? got mine literally dirt cheap. And this car will be a street car, not drag car. So no 5k clutch dumps or anything like that.
#5
I will def. take a look at the kits then! I would much rather grenade the rear then throw a rod threw the block. Which is why I decided to start at the front and work my way to the back.
Alot of guys are running 400+ on stock axles though, which is all i'll be running. Although mine will be all motor rather then a blown 400hp. So it will act a little different.
Alot of guys are running 400+ on stock axles though, which is all i'll be running. Although mine will be all motor rather then a blown 400hp. So it will act a little different.
#6
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (3)
Most guys who go FI end up breaking the diff pretty quickly. The trick with these cars is getting the power to the ground and when you do, not breaking something. Even at stock power levels it's a gamble.
I daily drive mine and really have no intentions of more power adders, so I've left my 4th gen quiet diff alone and treat it with respect.
I daily drive mine and really have no intentions of more power adders, so I've left my 4th gen quiet diff alone and treat it with respect.
#7
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (18)
I will def. take a look at the kits then! I would much rather grenade the rear then throw a rod threw the block. Which is why I decided to start at the front and work my way to the back.
Alot of guys are running 400+ on stock axles though, which is all i'll be running. Although mine will be all motor rather then a blown 400hp. So it will act a little different.
Alot of guys are running 400+ on stock axles though, which is all i'll be running. Although mine will be all motor rather then a blown 400hp. So it will act a little different.
Rear, fuel system, trans, clutch, then motor.
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#8
in this case the clutch/fuel system will be done at the same time. while the engine is out.
The trans, i will build it when i have to. I've never really read of anyone building the trans on these cars though, any threads i should read on that subject??
The trans, i will build it when i have to. I've never really read of anyone building the trans on these cars though, any threads i should read on that subject??
#10
Tick is exactly who i was planning on speaking with about the cam situation. I'll be starting to gather my parts this week. hopefully have all the parts by first part of april. limited funding... have to sneak money from the wifes purse
#11
LS6 = ok. That FAST102 might pop a seam w/boost and I know people that at least in the past that have had problems. He was 850rwhp and If forget the boost level, but I would not use that intake for boost myself.
Seems like never enough fuel on blower cars. Been there done that.
At 800hp and BFSC around 0.6, thats 480/8 or 60lb/hr. Then add at least another 25%, thats 80lb/hr. Go bigger!
Valuable info. Don't forget to setup your valvetrain. You are likely going to spin that bad boy up. Maybe even 3/8 PR.
Seems like never enough fuel on blower cars. Been there done that.
At 800hp and BFSC around 0.6, thats 480/8 or 60lb/hr. Then add at least another 25%, thats 80lb/hr. Go bigger!
Valuable info. Don't forget to setup your valvetrain. You are likely going to spin that bad boy up. Maybe even 3/8 PR.
#13
From what i've been reading, the stock 3/8 (-6) line is able to support my needs as long as the pump/injectors are up to the task. There have been alot of builds that have gone 750+ on stock -6 line.