M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

After finding out my clutch is on it's last legs, I've been putting a list together of what I'm going to upgrade/replace on my otherwise stock T56. So far:

- Monster Stage 3 Clutch w/Billet Flywheel (Or should I get the Light Weight Billet? What's the advantage?)
- Tick Master Cylinder w/Speed Bleeder
- GM Slave Cylinder w/Throwout Bearing
- 2 pints of RBF 600 DOT 4 brake fluid to bleed system (Hope it's enough for a complete flush)

Anything else I should do while the tranny is out? Car will be a weekend cruiser with occasional trips to the strip/autox.

badformulaLS1

iTrader: (1)

You'll need trans fluid if you didn't know already. Besides that I think you got it covered.

BALLSS

pilot bearing

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Ah yes, I believe I used Pennzoil Synchromesh last time I changed my fluid. A bit stubborn on cold mornings but no complaints otherwise. Guess I'll go with it again.

What about the flywheel? I've read that lightweight flywheels can make it a bit tricky on hill starts...

I believe that comes with the Clutch package from Monster.

BALLSS

generally speaking a lighter FW benefits auto x driving where there is frequent shifting so a lighter weight FW helps keep the revs up. For street & drag racing a standard (heavier) one is better. Typically higher revs are needed to get a car with a lightweight FW moving on the street....and starting from a stop up a hill.

great if the Monster kit has a pilot bearing included, if not than get one when you replace the clutch

spydog

I will be doing the same projet as soon as the snow is gone and i can get the car out of storage good list of what to replace wile the trans is out i have two questions what is a tick speed bleeder and what type of trans fluid should i use

.boB

iTrader: (1)

I have an older Tremec TKO, which calls for GM Synchromesh. I'v tried GM, Royal Purple, and Penzoil. GM and RP felt the same. Penzoil definitely gave a harder and more difficult shift, hot or cold. Especially when shifting near 5K rpm's. I currently use GM, because it's slightly cheaper that RP.

spydog

Thanks i think i will stay away from penzoil

SNLPerformance

iTrader: (15)

We use regular DexIII in trans with no issues and all our clutch kits include a new pilot bearing. We also always install a remote bleeder with all our clutch kits and highly recommend them not just for the sake of ease of bleeding, but also to help keep fluid fresh if the car is going to be driven hard. We offer own speed bleeder which has a one way check valve to allow you to be able to do bleed it on your own. Unless you plan on road racing the car primarily over street driving where ease of revmatching is beneficial with the lighter flywheel, I would recommend sticking with the 28lb flywheel for ease of driveability when taking off/launching and minimizing slipping with the ceramic friction material. Hope that helps and don't hesitate if you have any other questions, Chris 817-750-2000

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Ok, so since 90% of the time my car will be on the streets rather than at the strip, I'll go with the regular 28lb flywheel. As for the break in process, I've read to just baby it for at least 500 miles after installation. Anything else?

BALLSS

Just drive the car/clutch normal. don't slip or beat on it for at least 500 mi.

the friction and mating surface need to bed before you start using them aggressively

ChrisSingh90

iTrader: (12)

No one mentioned rear main seal? I'm not sure the mileage on your car but might as well change it while everything's out, that's what I did. Just make sure you get the tool from saccitycorvette to center the cover so the seal sits perfectly on the crank.

Chris,