chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Going through my new t56 engine harness as I am in the middle of the a4->t56 swap. Good thing I did because I found I was missing the fuel pressure sensor on the drivers side pig tail.

Anyways I have re wrapped the fuel injector harness in 3m electrical tape two tight coatings. I don't want to put wire loom back on because it is nearly impossible to clean with all those crevices in them

Can I leave the fuel injector harness on both sides just in a triple coat of electrical tape and not use the loom? I don't believe the loom protects anything and it looks ugly. I'm leaving the plastic loom on the lower points of the harness where it will be exposed to more movement from wind and suspension etc

And yes I searched however all the engine loom threads talk about changing the colors etc

Mods please leave in Texas section because I know we have more veterans here than on the main site

romancommander

iTrader: (1)

Well the function of looming or sleeving versus electrical tape, is abrasion resistance and temperature resistance. Electrical tape is very poor in both regards no matter how many times you wrap it.

Cheap corrugated loom (PVC) is just as bad and actually oozes and melts if ran to close to hot stuff. OEM's use Nylon split loom which has better properties but is more expensive.

What I prefer:

I use this stuff at work all the time and love it:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ca...eeving/=qngyvx

They sell it in a non slit style too:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ca...eeving/=qngzpt

You can get it from a bunch of vendors.

It looks professional, has fantastic abrasion resistance, good temp range and ships on OEM vehicles now. That's what I'd do.

Here's the main splash page so you can see how many different types there are:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ca...eeving/=qngyph

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the links, sigh I guess I will just put the loom back on. You would think they would have a high temp abrasive protective tape by now

LS1PUNK

iTrader: (5)

You can get the mesh loom from Frys in all different sizes. Grainger also has it but you'll have to order it and wait for it to show.

neutron82

iTrader: (26)

I took all the loom off of my injector harness but I did leave it on the backside of the engine where it isn't visible, been that way for 3 years with no issues... the car is garaged and not subject to bad weather so I'm not worried about it... my headers are coated so it really doesn't get all that hot compared to some other cars I've seen... if you could heatshrink it somehow that would probably look slick

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

That gives me confidence, the main reason I want to do it is to tuck the harness under the fuel rails. I don't think the rails or intake get hot enough to melt the tape

neutron82

iTrader: (26)

I don't think that stuff could get anywhere near hot enough to cause damage, just keep them off the valve covers and you should be fine... I have fast rails and removed my evap line to clean it up a bit and my injector harness is not very pliable so once they are plugged in the harness just kind of hovers above the valve covers

5w20

iTrader: (21)

Loom > tape

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Gota say I've done just about everything imaginable to the F-body Harneses and NEVER have I found a factory fuel pressure sensor lol! Looks like these guys answed you questions, but couldn't help but coment on that.

romancommander

iTrader: (1)

Wiring in the engine bay is required to meet standard SAE J1128. GXL is a common type of wire used in OEM looms and has a temp range of -59 to 257 deg F. Its not that hard in the engine bay to exceed those temps. Not to mention bare insulation has virtually 0 abrasion resistance. At the very least I would use High heat heat shrink.

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/WL18-...TOMOTIVE-WIRE/

Heat shrink:

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/22491...FABRIC-TUBING/

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Its the red pig tail that attaches to the fuel rail on the drivers side. Not sure the technical name

I'll check it out thanks

Everything was going smoothly so far, taking my time cleaning everything as I go. only hang up was the ground connection on the lower portion of the drivers side head. Since I have solid mounts the bolt just backs out to the firewall and won't come out. Can I use the old bolt from the trans tube dip stick on the passengers side for the ground? Any other words of wisdom appreciated I'm also re doing all my stereo and radar detector wiring

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Sounds like the ground bolt used wasn't the factory bolt or you would not have a issues getting it out or in. But really I've tied bothe grounds together and also have done what your talking about it won't make a big difference as long as you get a good ground. And that red plug you mentioned was for the evap system that controled the evap solenoid to evacuate fuel vapors from the tank. But I know why you were calling it that now. So carry on. The factory ground bolt was a short non-shouldered bolt 10x1.5mm about an inch long zinc plated vs the typical grey coated bolt. GL!

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Another question, I have only broken 2 things, 1 is on the passengers side right to the left of the ac line at the firewall. It is a plastic T fitting with one end having a larger side to restrict air flow. I believe it is related to the heater, but one of the ends goes into the main engine harness

The other is on the drivers side by the brake booster. I believe it was for the windshield wiper fluid to go up into the windshield cowel. The tiny plastic pipe was extremely brittle and broke as soon as I touched it.

The clutch master cylinder was a pain. I just ended up un bolting the brake master and the abs block to slide them out enough to get me a clean angle to get the clutch master cylinder mounting point. Also had a steel bracket fabricated to support the firewall

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Yeah the steel bracket for the master is a good idea, but if you were using a tick master they come with a billet block that would be enough support. But again I've done it both ways glad you got it. The plastic T your talking about is for the A/C controls and it is a has a one way check valve. You can pick one up at the local autoparts store. And as far as the windshield washer hose goes yeah they break pretty easy after some age I would just replace it with some rubber hose of the associated size not that much pressure on it and will allow you the flexability needed.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

my hero. Left you positive feedback to personally respond to all of my questions. Like your car mine will only see limited use on dry days and be a garage queen since she has earned her retirement to be a weeken cruiser

The bracket took some molestation as I had to ground down the inner edges to get the master In because the plate was so thick. Also thinking about drilling hole to access the bleeder from inside the car and just getting a rubber plug to cover it when not in use

I used a write up for the t56 swap and re used my flex plate bolts for the flywheel. 74ft lbs are a bitch when you have to do it with one arm

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

LOL! Thanks. Glad its working out for you.

Dr Tran

iTrader: (10)

Instead of just cutting a hole to reach the bleeder, I would just order a tick speed bleeder line and install it while you have it all apart.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Not necessary, I have a vacuum bleeder gun and a beautiful wife to crawl under the car. I have solid mounts and was worried about clearance but I have plenty of room so no bleeder hole.

Can anyone tell me the coil pack order on 98 cars? Mine go red blue green purple, 99+ have red green blue purple. I'm assuming red is the constant, first on drivers side last on passengers side