mhslax6

I had a good leak at the water pump seal and car started to over heat (this is why I have the car apart). I pressure tested it and the seal was blowing coolant. When I refilled the coolant bubbled out of the radiator. My dad had posted about this and the consensus was the wp leak was causing bubbles at the radiator. No coolant in oil or white smoke. BUT as much problems this thing is causing me, in the back of my head I keep thinking I'll get it all back together and the damn thing will overheat because I have a head gasket blown.......

Anyway to check without filling with coolant?

96TransAmboosted

iTrader: (8)

Should have hydro carbon test before removing parts. Even that does not always show a sure answer. Now its best to repair then pressure test for 5-10 min and go from there. If WP off i would replace cap and rotor as well

mhslax6

Yeah I didn't know a kit existed that checked for gases in the coolant. I have everthing off the front of the motor now. How much more work to pull intake and heads?

transbird95

iTrader: (4)

You could do a compression test and a leakdown test. Are you sure you bled the air ouf of the cooling system right?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Check the plugs. See if one is far cleaner than the others.
Also...
How exactly did you do this? Did you just simply start filling the system with water/coolant?

mhslax6

All of the plugs looked the same, no real difference. My dad filled the radiator with premix Dex-Cool (about 1 1/2 gallons). He didn't bleed at the bleeders though, he left the cap off and told me to turn the heater on... It pushed all of the coolant out then. He refilled after figuring out the 2 bleeders were there but the car was not level, same result. He then pressure checked and water was pushing out the wp.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

In order to bleed the system properly you must have both bleeders open initially before filling with coolant.

I've always filled my system this way:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/17602184-post4.html

One issue to clear up is once your coolant level is full, your engine is running and the coolant is heating up, do not open bleeders with radiator cap off. Especially the heater hose bleeder. Since it on a higher plane than the radiator cap it will cause coolant to purge and air will be introduced back into the system via bleeder. Only open it when there is positive pressure.

96TransAmboosted

iTrader: (8)

Leakdown test would help but i did not think they would have one.

I like to open bleeders fill coolant, while your pouring its pushing the air out, once water comes out bleeder tighten and start engine. Let fan cycle twice then should be good.

I use a snap on vacuum kit to fill systems now but back in the day thats what i always did with never an issue.

mhslax6

I'm just worried that I get the thing back together (supercharger included) and have to pull it apart again. But I definitely don't want to do it for no reason.