new motor beak in
03-31-2014, 10:57 AM
#1
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new motor beak in Doing a rebuild on my lt1, it's a used block but it's been machined and cleaned. Purchased a full rebuild kit from O'riellys, using my old heads. What's the best way to break in the motor from first start to being good for full throttle?
03-31-2014, 11:07 AM
#3
I was under the impression that you had to beat the **** out of your motor to seat the rings properly or you'll glaze the walls. But I guess it really depends on the type of rings.
That and change your oil a lot.
That and change your oil a lot.
Last edited by Catmaigne; 03-31-2014 at 11:13 AM.
03-31-2014, 01:13 PM
#5
what I do:
initial start up (do not use synthetic oil. regular dino 5-30 or even a "break-in oil like joe gibbs) and hold TB open to 2k rpm (stick a penny or something between return stop & TB) for 15-20 min. check for leaks and use a temp gun to monitor exhaust temps on headers/manifolds (if one is cold or stupid hot, shut off motor and find out why). This used to be principally done to set solid lifter cams/lifters but on hydraulic cam cars this is to really just get oil flowing well throughout motor
drain oil/change filter
go drive and hold in 2nd gear as RPM's get to 3500, decal. do this 5 times
continue drive in 2nd gear accel to 4500, decal 5 times
the above helps set the rings by loading the pistons on both accel & decal
now drive it "normal" without sustaining a constant speed for long for 500 mi.
drain oil/filter
drive as easy or hard as you want, change oil/filter in 1500 mi
do routine oil/filter changes
initial start up (do not use synthetic oil. regular dino 5-30 or even a "break-in oil like joe gibbs) and hold TB open to 2k rpm (stick a penny or something between return stop & TB) for 15-20 min. check for leaks and use a temp gun to monitor exhaust temps on headers/manifolds (if one is cold or stupid hot, shut off motor and find out why). This used to be principally done to set solid lifter cams/lifters but on hydraulic cam cars this is to really just get oil flowing well throughout motor
drain oil/change filter
go drive and hold in 2nd gear as RPM's get to 3500, decal. do this 5 times
continue drive in 2nd gear accel to 4500, decal 5 times
the above helps set the rings by loading the pistons on both accel & decal
now drive it "normal" without sustaining a constant speed for long for 500 mi.
drain oil/filter
drive as easy or hard as you want, change oil/filter in 1500 mi
do routine oil/filter changes
03-31-2014, 03:02 PM
#6
what I do:
initial start up (do not use synthetic oil. regular dino 5-30 or even a "break-in oil like joe gibbs) and hold TB open to 2k rpm (stick a penny or something between return stop & TB) for 15-20 min. check for leaks and use a temp gun to monitor exhaust temps on headers/manifolds (if one is cold or stupid hot, shut off motor and find out why). This used to be principally done to set solid lifter cams/lifters but on hydraulic cam cars this is to really just get oil flowing well throughout motor
drain oil/change filter
go drive and hold in 2nd gear as RPM's get to 3500, decal. do this 5 times
continue drive in 2nd gear accel to 4500, decal 5 times
the above helps set the rings by loading the pistons on both accel & decal
now drive it "normal" without sustaining a constant speed for long for 500 mi.
drain oil/filter
drive as easy or hard as you want, change oil/filter in 1500 mi
do routine oil/filter changes
initial start up (do not use synthetic oil. regular dino 5-30 or even a "break-in oil like joe gibbs) and hold TB open to 2k rpm (stick a penny or something between return stop & TB) for 15-20 min. check for leaks and use a temp gun to monitor exhaust temps on headers/manifolds (if one is cold or stupid hot, shut off motor and find out why). This used to be principally done to set solid lifter cams/lifters but on hydraulic cam cars this is to really just get oil flowing well throughout motor
drain oil/change filter
go drive and hold in 2nd gear as RPM's get to 3500, decal. do this 5 times
continue drive in 2nd gear accel to 4500, decal 5 times
the above helps set the rings by loading the pistons on both accel & decal
now drive it "normal" without sustaining a constant speed for long for 500 mi.
drain oil/filter
drive as easy or hard as you want, change oil/filter in 1500 mi
do routine oil/filter changes
SNM chime in!
A guy was telling to do 1k before I put it into boost! Your thoughts???
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03-31-2014, 03:27 PM
#8
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Its not a old school motor that the lifters need to seat etc. Its a hydralic roller camshaft, while you build it use lube on cam.lifters,rockers. Add oil, prime before installing intake. Finish engine,fill fluids and start.
2 heat cycles first one shut it off after 15 minutes of idle and re check all the bolts you can. Restart and check and recheck for leaks. Make sure your fan is cycling before test drive. Drive 500 miles change oil. Drive it like you stole it. Use a good oil filter like a wix filter, i like to swap filter after 100miles and add .5 qt oil. Thats when most shavings will be released.
2 heat cycles first one shut it off after 15 minutes of idle and re check all the bolts you can. Restart and check and recheck for leaks. Make sure your fan is cycling before test drive. Drive 500 miles change oil. Drive it like you stole it. Use a good oil filter like a wix filter, i like to swap filter after 100miles and add .5 qt oil. Thats when most shavings will be released.
03-31-2014, 05:31 PM
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The moment your motor fires up you have ring seal, just run it for 30 mins and change the oil. Lulz @ baby tune, if you need a baby tune then you musten be confident in your engine building skills...
. Your mad cause you wouldnt be able to do **** on teh street from a dig..
03-31-2014, 08:02 PM
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I have the coin, just figurin out my next setup that will habe over inflated numbas
