Is my torque converter bad or my trans?
06-10-2014, 11:18 AM
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Is my torque converter bad or my trans? At first I thought my trans was going but now I'm questioning the converter.
First thing I noticed going wrong was 2-3 shift bouncing the rev so I thought it was trans. Then I noticed more slipping in lockup especially going up hills. Seemed like it wasn't as tight going up hills in lockup like before. Also it felt like the converter would come unlocked easier by giving it less throttle than before. Its a Yankss3600. Car has been tuned for a few years and these problems just popped up. Does this sound like a converter issue or trans?
First thing I noticed going wrong was 2-3 shift bouncing the rev so I thought it was trans. Then I noticed more slipping in lockup especially going up hills. Seemed like it wasn't as tight going up hills in lockup like before. Also it felt like the converter would come unlocked easier by giving it less throttle than before. Its a Yankss3600. Car has been tuned for a few years and these problems just popped up. Does this sound like a converter issue or trans?
06-10-2014, 05:34 PM
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The lockup clutch could be slipping due to a worn clutch or a worn TCC valve in the valve body which will eventually result in a P1870 code.
However, neither should cause problems with the 2-3 shift.
I would suggest checking line pressure while driving and accelerating. You can either buy a gauge on ebay for $45, or have a trans shop do this for you.
A transmission pressure gauge is like a volt/ohm meter for electrical problems. Each is a critical diagnostic tool.
However, neither should cause problems with the 2-3 shift.
I would suggest checking line pressure while driving and accelerating. You can either buy a gauge on ebay for $45, or have a trans shop do this for you.
A transmission pressure gauge is like a volt/ohm meter for electrical problems. Each is a critical diagnostic tool.
06-10-2014, 06:45 PM
#5
I would think low line a probable cause. Possibly a failed PCS or even the screen for the PCS has become clogged. This would account for all symptoms described. But yes a gauge would tell a lot provided you know what your looking at. But is a gauged is not readily available I would drop the pan if pretty clean "some debris and gray silt is normal" I would change the PCS and Trans filter and see what happens. If you have excessive crap in there more than lets say a table spoon . Then I would say times for a trans or a rebuild plus getting converter checked out. The trouble with trans/converter failures many times its hard to truly say which caused which when it gone to far.
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06-10-2014, 07:27 PM
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Well I have the converter and trans out. Fluid out of the converter looks great and so does the pan.
Maybe a dumb question but...
Is it normal to hear clunking inside the converter while shaking it?
Maybe a dumb question but...
Is it normal to hear clunking inside the converter while shaking it?
06-10-2014, 07:35 PM
#7
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Yes, the converter may rattle because the stator is no longer held stationary by the stator shaft of the trans.
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06-10-2014, 10:42 PM
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I agree and thanks for the help both of you!
How do I go about getting it checked? Do I need to send it somewhere to be cut open or something? And once I get it checked what happens if it's damaged? Is the cost of fixing it worth it? Sorry, newb question
How do I go about getting it checked? Do I need to send it somewhere to be cut open or something? And once I get it checked what happens if it's damaged? Is the cost of fixing it worth it? Sorry, newb question
06-11-2014, 07:32 AM
#10
Well the converter you can send to yank to cut and check. The trans would have to be a trans shop however you might actually come out better and over all cheaper for a much better quality unit just to buy a new trans outright from a vendor here like "PerformaBuilt" shameless plug lol. But in all seriousness a regular trans shop is gonna charge a lot for a stock rebuild with little warranty.
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06-11-2014, 07:51 AM
#11
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I would start with the line pressure test. If it is low, you know what the problem is, -AND- if there is little crud and no metal in the oil, the converter may be OK.
Or be safe and send the converter to Yank as Performabuilt suggestet. IIRC Yank charges $150 for a rebuild and that might include the price for a minor stall speed change. Add about $35 shipping each way.
Or be safe and send the converter to Yank as Performabuilt suggestet. IIRC Yank charges $150 for a rebuild and that might include the price for a minor stall speed change. Add about $35 shipping each way.
06-11-2014, 02:23 PM
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I have looked at the fluid that was drained from the converter with the hawk eye and there is absolutely nothing in this fluid. Just a little darker than normal that's it. If the converter was bad wouldn't I see something in the fluid or can there still be a failure with nothing in the fluid? This sucks!
06-11-2014, 02:29 PM
#13
I would start with the line pressure test. If it is low, you know what the problem is, -AND- if there is little crud and no metal in the oil, the converter may be OK.
Or be safe and send the converter to Yank as Performabuilt suggestet. IIRC Yank charges $150 for a rebuild and that might include the price for a minor stall speed change. Add about $35 shipping each way.
Or be safe and send the converter to Yank as Performabuilt suggestet. IIRC Yank charges $150 for a rebuild and that might include the price for a minor stall speed change. Add about $35 shipping each way.
Maybe Yanks mad at me for going Circle-D? 
