Mikeym718

I have an automatic 02 Z28 with traction control and my rear end is almost completely shot. It makes a ridiculously loud whining noise which is annoying. It doesn't matter how fast I'm going the noise is present but increases with speed.
Everything is stock with my Z28 and I am not mechanically inclined so I cannot do this on my own. I've had 2 mechanics check several junk yards and I have checked craigslist and ebay and cannot find a used compatible rear end. My only option now is having it rebuilt. So what exactly am I looking at spending? Would those gear sets on ws6 store work? Any advice would be great because I'm lost and frustrated, but don't want to give up on my Camaro.
Also I got a quote on a rebuilt one from Jasper for 2000 and a 3 year warranty. I'd like to keep my expenses under 1000 if possible.

fleetmgr

After having dealt with Jasper on a professional basis (briefly), I wouldn't want one of their rebuilt anything in a vehicle I owned. Jasper is kinda like the Speedy-Lube of the overhaul world, their people might just be able to recognize a rear end on sight.

Was it me, I'd save up some coin and get a real rear end under the car. Overhauling the stocker is throwing good money after bad. That said, I would think you could get it done for less than a grand. Time to make some phone calls, though.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

An 02 A4 Z28 with ABS/TC would have a Torsen posi with either 2.73s' (GU2-2 series) or 3.23s' (GU5-3 series).
You don't have to replace with a ABS/TC rearend as you can use a ABS only rearend and swap over the TC axles and backing plates onto a ABS only rearend,thereby making it a ABS/TC rearend. This would widen the compatability search for a rear. But you'd still have to be concerned about gear ratio,unless you were planning a ratio change anyway.

Jake the SSnake

iTrader: (11)

Id honestly keep looking. Either find a decent used one, or buy an aftermarket housing. Imo, these rears aren't worth rebuilding unless you can do it for less than $500. If you're going to keep the car for a while its definitely worth upgrading to a better rear.

Mikeym718

Thanks for the advice. I wasn't going to go with the Jasper as I thought I could get better for my $2000. My thing is I don't race and I don't abuse my car at all. I think a stock one should hold up fine, but not exactly sure. My car hasn't even gone past 75 lol If I was to go with a better rear end how much could I expect to pay for the parts? If someone could direct me that'd be great. I've searched these forums, but don't understand any of it.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

While this would be at the high end of the spectrum, have you checked with your local Chevy dealer to see what they would charge to rebuild the rear? Four wheel drive shops are also good places to get a quote from. Guys with the lifted trucks and giant tires usually change their gear ratios. Where are you located?

Mikeym718

I'm located in NYC. I'll check my dealer when I get back home(November). I'm currently on military orders in Mississippi and couldn't bring my car because I know it wouldn't have made it. Right now I'm just trying to budget myself for when I get back or possibly have my father go take it to get it repaired and have it ready for when I get back.

Personally I'd like to get rid of it and get a C5, but I think my wife would kill me lol.

No_Quarter

My bearings are shot in the 99 SS I just picked up, so I went ahead and got all the bearings, ring, pinion, shims, and all for around $300.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

Im in southern ct, have a 2002 camaro with ~60k miles and had the oem rear start howling. I decided to get a strange s60 aftermarket complete rear, and installed it myself in my garage. simple fact is if you decide on a bigger aftermarket rear, expect to pay over $3000 when all said and done. your least expensive route is rebuilding your oem 10-bolt 7.5" rear and when i priced that out when i had to make my decision, don't kid yourself expect to pay near $1000 for parts and labor.
i had a shop replace my ring & pinion under warranty and they billed just a R&P replacement labor as either $350 or $425 I have to look at the bill, and that's with me bringing them the axle. there's really no need to buy an aftermarket rear unless you're car is putting down power, for normal usage the oem 7.5" rear is fine.
my recommendation is look for shops that specialize in drive train and rear axle rebuilds. find out if they prefer to do the work with the axle installed in the car, or with the axle out of the car. removing the rear axle is not hard. expect at least $300 for a new gear set, and you probably want a gm gear set which runs a little over $400 I think. Then you need a bearing kit, possibly shim kit depending on the shop doing the work, and potentially a new pinion yoke. all that adds up. you'll want to make sure the shop is competent enough to check things like axle runout and carrier runout, don't just have them throw in a new gearset. if there's another problems your new gear set may only last $10k miles then your back where you started.

one other possibility you might consider is if a shop can locate a complete rebuilt oem axle. On my '99 camaro i had that rear break and it was covered under aftermarket warranty. the shop received a complete reman'd 10-bolt through the aftermarket insurance, who knows it might have been from jasper, cost me $50 for deductible. but unless a shop or someone provides you with a 3yr/46k mile warranty on that reman'd unit I'd be leary of going that route not knowing who rebuilt and set it up. it's far easy to screw up a rebuild than get it right.

Mikeym718

Thanks 1 FMF. Very detailed explanation and I figured I wouldn't need an s60 or something similar. My car will never see a track and I don't have a heavy foot. I'm going to make a few calls soon just to get some quotes regarding the rebuild. Are there any parts you'd recommend? I'm sure if I go to a mechanic they'd mark up the prices on the parts in the installation. Also I don't mind spending 1-2k as long as the problem is fixed and it's a long term solution, but as stated I don't race and don't care for adding HP. I already avg 10-12 mpg here in the city.

"MAC"

iTrader: (1)

Here you go

Summit has everything dude. Its the first place i go to.

http://m.summitracing.com/search/yea...ings-and-seals



http://m.summitracing.com/search/yea...esults=display

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

i would price parts from online to have an idea of what to expect,
in your case i would recommend getting genuine GM ring/pinion gearset because they are said to be the most quiet. I think richmond gears advertise as being stronger but are reported to be noisier, and with any other aftermarket gear set you take your chances with. i remember reading people having problems with certain outer axle bearings and/or seals not fitting properly so research a little before buying parts if you buy anything. otherwise find a shop and let them source everything and tell them you want a GM gearse. some places might deny the job if you hand them parts then say here install... oh and give me a warranty on these parts unknown to you.

verify your current rear axle ratio and get the new gearset in same ratio, otherwise if you choose a higher or different ratio if you so desire, because you have an auto trans you might have other problems beside your speedometer being off if you don't reprogram the computer. the 2.73 ratio was the base ratio for the automatic, and the 3.23 ratio was the performance ratio. I don't remember if the carrier was different, something about a series 2 carrier vs series 3, so check on that if you decide to go with a different ratio.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

the 'problem'(to avoid)axle bearings are called/referred to 'axle saver bearings' because they ride on a slightly different location of the axle. BUT they stick out of the housing making c-clip insertion difficult and c-clip removal IMPOSSIBLE.

murphinator

iTrader: (2)

try car-part.com ( the dash is important between car & part) to see if you can locate a used rear local to you.

You should be able to find a good used rear for around $300

I have had better luck rolling the dice with original used parts over the years than reman anything .

My M6 bolt on car has 240,000 miles on its stock rear and its still quiet and the car has had most popular bolt ons since before 100k and m6 is harder on rears than a4 they can survive if your gentle with them and it sounds like you are.

Mikeym718

Just got my car brought to my mechanic and he is claiming that the rear end that I purchased isn't posi rear and therefore cannot be used with my car. This is the link to the rear end that I purchased.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1998-2002-Trans-Am-Camaro-Z-28-LS-1-Disk-Brake-3-23-Posi-Rear-/231285569592?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d9b1b838&vxp=mtr&nma=true&si=C5CWQZ%252B9wcnFygh5OMwfxMvKD%252BU%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
Is this true? I have a stock 02 z28 auto with the same gear ratio claimed in the items description. This is getting so frustrating that I just want to sell it and buy something new...

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

If its not a posi unit just have him swap yours into that rearend. Its not that big of a deal. Pull axles, pull diff, swap ring gears, reinstall posi diff with new carrier bearings and probably reuse stock shims. You may need a small carrier shim set to set the proper gear backlash. You could do it with just a floor jack, jack stands, a socket set and a torque wrench in about 5 hours. A magnetic dial indicator would be needed to check backlash, but I would bet its fine with stock shims.

Mikeym718

Well they went ahead with installing the different one, but they told my father that I'd have to drive lightly on it in order not to damage any of the gears. I wish I could show them this, but I'm not in NY right now to deal with the mechanic myself and my dad only deals with this mechanic so I'm kind of out of luck. Do I run a risk of damaging the new rear end?

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

I know most new gears require a heat/break in cycle before running any kind of speed. I had a set that speced like 10 miles at under 40mph and let it cool for 2 hours and repeat 3 times then all is good to go or something very close to that. I cant remember exactly. Your new gears should have came with break-in instructions, but just to be safe Id do something like what I did.