Fuel pump just priming for a split second.
#1
Fuel pump just priming for a split second.
I posted this in my build thread but I figured I would get better/quicker answers over here.
Turbo car, dual in tank Walbro 255s., factory FPR. When I got it all wired temporarily, the primary pump would prime fine. Key on, prime a couple seconds and shut off. I soldered all the joints, it worked fine for a a couple hours. I was working the key on/off to load my tune and all of a sudden the car went from priming for a couple seconds to maybe 1/2 second. Now the car won't start. When you turn the key on, you will hear it for a split second then it shuts off. Someone on this forum that I consider knowledgeable told me it sounded like my hose came loose from the pump. Only problem is I'll have to cut all my wires again to pull the bucket out.
So.. Before I do all this, can anyone tell me if thins has happened to them and what the problem was?
Turbo car, dual in tank Walbro 255s., factory FPR. When I got it all wired temporarily, the primary pump would prime fine. Key on, prime a couple seconds and shut off. I soldered all the joints, it worked fine for a a couple hours. I was working the key on/off to load my tune and all of a sudden the car went from priming for a couple seconds to maybe 1/2 second. Now the car won't start. When you turn the key on, you will hear it for a split second then it shuts off. Someone on this forum that I consider knowledgeable told me it sounded like my hose came loose from the pump. Only problem is I'll have to cut all my wires again to pull the bucket out.
So.. Before I do all this, can anyone tell me if thins has happened to them and what the problem was?
#3
TECH Senior Member
Sounds like a power/ground wiring problem (one or more of the soldered joints has excessive voltage drop)...
did you use electronics type solder (i.e. rosin flux core), and not plumbing type solder (acid flux core)...?
before soldering did make good mechanical contact between the wires (twist together length-wise)...?
can you measure the voltage across the pump (using wire-piercing probes)...?
did you use electronics type solder (i.e. rosin flux core), and not plumbing type solder (acid flux core)...?
before soldering did make good mechanical contact between the wires (twist together length-wise)...?
can you measure the voltage across the pump (using wire-piercing probes)...?
#4
Yes, it was Rosin flux. I don't know exactly how the connections were made before solder, my father in law did it as I was welding up a few things. He is very tedious, I imagine he done it the correct way. I have a voltmeter and can measure anything that anyone suggests to do. I'm just at a loss here and it's starting to get the best of my patience.
I can wire the pumps straight to the battery and it kicks onand will just build pressure to about 20lb though on the rail.. Also, the gray wire coming from the PCM is where my power is tied into. For whatever reason, when I check it with a voltmeter, it's showing nothing.im lost
I can wire the pumps straight to the battery and it kicks onand will just build pressure to about 20lb though on the rail.. Also, the gray wire coming from the PCM is where my power is tied into. For whatever reason, when I check it with a voltmeter, it's showing nothing.im lost
#5
TECH Senior Member
When you jumper wire the pump to the battery, it runs...? For how long...?
Try this:
- check fuel pump fuse.
- remove the fuel pump relay, and jumper wire the pins in the socket, or try another relay.
Try this:
- check fuel pump fuse.
- remove the fuel pump relay, and jumper wire the pins in the socket, or try another relay.
#7
TECH Senior Member
- relay has failed (most likely),
- relay socket terminals are loose/dirty on the relay pins (i.e. making poor contact)
- wiring from PCM to relay socket has failed,
- PCM has failed;
try a different relay from the fuse panel to test it (a fan relay should fit).