silverZ98

iTrader: (6)

what back spaceing are you guys running with these rims to make them work on 15x3.5 rim up front and 15x10 or 8 for rear? are there any problems with rear tires rubing the fender with the 15x10s? and what size tire for the front?
and what size mickey et street tire u reconmend? thanks
Eddie

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Front: 15x3.5 skinny, 5/16 spacer no grinding

Rear: 15x8, 5.5 backspace, no spacer but major grinding, or 5/16 spacer and some grinding
Rear: 15x10, 7.5 backspace, no spacer but major grinding, or 5/16 spacer and some grinding, plus some BFH'ing here and there.

skimms98

iTrader: (7)

good info, thanks PSJ !!

silverZ98

iTrader: (6)

thank u for t he info john

Fast SS on TNT

iTrader: (1)

Here is a basic overview and explanation for you new guys that are planning to use a 15 X 10 Weld Drag Wheel. (Pro-Star or Drag Lite)

The basics:
A 15 X 10 drag wheel can have a happy exsistance on your 4th Gen Fbody if you pay close attention to detail and never skip a safety oriented part.

Parts list:
Two Weld Drag Wheels 15 X 10 with a 7.5 backspacing.
10ct. ARP 12mm X 1.5 knurl Extended Studs (Mandatory!)
Two 5/16 wheel spacers (Moroso/Mr. Gasket brand work fine)
10 Weld Lugs 12mm X 1.5 knurl

Step 1:
You will need to pull your axles to install the ARP studs. I'm giving you this as your first step, as I know a few of you may be tempted to put the wheels on now, and worry about the studs later. Guess what? You may be safe going for a cruise on your stock studs, but if you have drag radials, or slicks and you hit those tires hard, you may lose a wheel (see death and dismemberment clause on your life insurance). I had a local shop put my studs in, and it cost me about $150. The studs themselves are only about $24 for two packs of 5. This is cheap compared to losing a wheel and destroying your car and hurting yourself or someone else. Nuff said!
Step 2:
Get out that angle grinder!! Your gonna learn to hate your angle grinder, as you prepare you car for the wrath of the 15 X 10. You have to take off over 1/2" of material from the caliper. The calipers are extremely thick, and have alot of extra material, so don't get too worried. The best procedure for this is to put the spacer on, and press the wheel up against the hub. If it won't seat up against the hub, grind a little more. Don't go crazy with the grinder! Just take a little off, and test fit, take a little off, test fit. Once the wheel can be bolted all the way up, and turns without any grinding or squeeking noises, you have just successfully ground your calipers.
Step 3:
Well duh! Put on your lugs, torque them down and take it for a spin. Be sure to pay close attention for any rubbing, grinding or other noises that "just don't sound right". Go back to the garage, re-torque and your done. Now go pick on a Mustang or some ricer.

Tire Fitment:
This is were things get a little on the "iffy" side. First and foremost if your going to run a drag slick on the street, obviously Johnny Law may notice and you could be looking at an impound, ticket, or a friendly "take it home". So be sure you know that slicks, albeit very cool on the street are ILLEGAL! Other options would be a street slick (Hoosier QTP or MT ET Street) or a good drag radial (Nitto Extreme/BFG Drag Radial/MT Drag Radial)

A 26 inch with a section/tread width of 10-10.5 tire requires no cutting, bashing or otherwise abuse and mutalition of your bumper or fenderwells.
A 27 inch tire should be safe as well, but carefull attention will have to be paid if the section width is 11.5 or greater.
A 28 inch tire will require the rear bumper be trimmed, and depending ont he section and tread width, you will have to hammer the fenderwells (facing you as you look into the wheel well on the left and right sides)

Check for clearance after mounting the rim/tire. Put the car on the ground and slowly drive around the immediate area. Pay close attention when turning the car, as some rubbing can occur while cornering. If it rubs, go straight back to the garage CAREFULLY! And pull the wheel off. Look for fresh rubber on the fenderwell. Remember the wider the section width, the more bashing you will have to do. And the taller the tire, the more trimming you will have to do to the bumpers. It seems that no two cars are exactly the same when it comes to tire size and fitment. I easily put on a 28 X 12.5 ET Street with very little fender well bashing and only a small bumper trim. However, friends have had to "beat the living ****" out of thier fenderwells and to trim the rear bumper do to the tire almost touching it. A few people on here have put on 28-30 inch tires with up to a 13.5 section width...now this requires MAJOR surgery, including grinding off the bumpstops, and trimming alot of material out of the fenderwell. Plus a serious radiusing of the fender lip itself. Hey, if your brave why the hell not!!!

The key to tire size and fitment is patience and attention to detail. I have to throw one last thing in=====> You can save yourself alot of steps if you purchase a Bogart Brand Wheel. I don't want to ***** too much for Steve at SJM, but I wish I had heard of these wheels back when I butchered my calipers! No spacers, and with the proper extended studs, you are NHRA legal!!

Hope this helps all of you out that have inquired about drag wheels and the 4th gen. It can be done!!

NOZR1

iTrader: (5)

Where can I get the ARP wheel studs? Also, are they are long enough?

silverZ98

iTrader: (6)

Thanks John and Fast SS on TNT your info was great thank u
Eddie

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

Just did this over the weekend with Weld Prostars 15X3.5 front and 15X10 rear and a 15X11.5 ET Street. Grinding the calipers was not fun but that part is over now. Fit is good.

Fast SS on TNT

iTrader: (1)

You can get ARP studs from most of the sponsors here, or try Jegs.com. As far as length goes, they are what I would call bare minimum. They will do the job, but will not extend out past the end of the lug (NHRA legal). If you want to do it right go with a 1/2 extended stud that is 3 inches long. This will require having your axle stud holes drilled out, and should be done by a professional.

I run a Moroso 1/2 stud on my Moser rearend, and they do stick out past the edge of the lug nut. The ARP studs will keep your wheels from falling off, as they have over 180,000lbs tensile strength. I cannot stress enough the importance of changing out your rear studs!!!!! Anything less is inviting disaster. Few pics of what a professional setup looks like.



Notice how the studs stick out past the edge of the lug in this shot.

koolrayz

iTrader: (26)

do you have to use longer studs if you dont use a spacer? and is most of the BFH work on the hump for the spare tire? looking at the 28x10.5 et drag. thanks for the great info

Fast SS on TNT

iTrader: (1)

You can use your stock studs, but they are not nearly as strong as the ARP's. Its just cheap insurance that your wheels will stay on while doing a burnout, or hard launches.