Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

I need to remove the oil pan on a buddies LS1 w/stock K-member.

We will probably have to do it without a engine hoist and/or cherry picker.

I was thinking I could:
- Remove the motor mount bolts
- Jack the engine up
- Wedge wood b/w the mounts and engine block when the enough clearance has been gained
- Remove oil pan

Any other tips or info that'd expedite this process?

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Will you be doing this on a lift or with the car on jack stands?

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Jackstands.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

I think your only option is to drop the cradle. Possibly rope or chain the header tubes to a bar suspended across the engine bay and lower rhe cradle with a floor jack after removing the motor mount bolts.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

We can get a bar that can hold the engine up so that we can lower the K-member.


So, we'll need to support the engine from moving down with the square metal tubing my buddy used.

Then, remove the engine motor mount bolts.

Then, remove the (4) K-member to body mount bolts and lower the k-member via a jack, correct?

Is there anything else that needs to be removed to lower the k-member enough for the clearance we need?

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

I'm pretty sure there are 6, not 4 bolts. I sometimes have to loosen 3 on the passenger side and lower the cradle about an inch on that side when installing MACs. You might have to take out the 4 bolts and 4 nuts that hold the upper shock support. (where a STB mounts) And watch your brake lines so they are not stretched too far. May have to disconnect those. I guess that will depend on how low it has to go for the pan to clear the bearing caps.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Ok, thanks.

If anyone else has other info please let me know.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Yea, I hope someone else helps here, It's one of those things where I understand the process, just never personally done it. It would be one of those figure it out as I go kind of things. Good luck.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Thanks.

I'll provide feedback when I complete the process.

In the meantime, others can share info/experience, etc.

I checked the parts CD and there are (6) bolts holding the k-member to the body of the car. So I'll remove this and the (2) bolts for engine mounts.

Classic

iTrader: (3)

Update -- used the cross bar across the shock towers and it worked GREAT! Honestly not that bad of a deal.

Classic

iTrader: (3)

Done and done -- check the update.

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Did you have to completely lower the k-member or did you just drop it a few inches? Also, did you have to unbolt the steering rack?

Just a quick synopsis of what you did would be great.

Classic

iTrader: (3)

Quick synopsis here we go:

First off, it was quite a bit easier because I allready had the heads off the car and the radiator/etc out (in the process of head/cam swap plus turbo install )

Steering rack is still there, column is not (like most header installs).

First up, took the alternator and A/C compressor off. Took out the 2 motor mount bolts. Then jacked the entire front end up. Placed jackstands under the subframe connectors to hold the car up. Took off the 4 bolts per side for the shocks. Then put the cross beam accross the shock towers. My beam is actually 4 2x4's bolted together (each 50 inches long). Then I used some nylon ratcheting straps (for truck tie downs -- got them at Lowes, medium duty 4 pack for like $15).

At this point you can run the straps wherever you want depending on what you want to do. If you just wanted to do a K-member swap, just run the straps around the motor, under the oil pan, and back up. However I wanted to take the pan off so I ran the first strap under/around the bellhousing as close to the oil pan as I could get. Then I ran another strap around two alternator bolts, and another one around 2 A/C bolts. Ratcheted all of those tight which pulled the motor off the motor mounts (not to much but it was defiently hanging by the boards now and not resting on anything).

Then, I took the wheels off, put 2 jacks under the k-member (you can do it with one but I just decided to use two after doing a k-member swap on a friends car with one jack (helps with balancing the k-member). Then just went under the car and took out all the k-member bolts. Then slowly let the jacks down as far as I could without stretching the brake lines to far (I also used zip ties to tie the upper a-arm to the shock to keep from stretching the brake lines (gives you a lot more travel that way).

So at this point the pan will almost come out but won't quite clear the bellhousing to slide out so very slowly you can push the k-member forward a bit (like an inch maybe-- should be fairly easy to do this) and that lets you pull the pan out without any problems.

It seems semi-compilicated, but honestly it is really easy.

Also, I would suggest taking all the bolts out of the pan before dropping the k-member because the motor will "swing" a bit from that cross bar which makes it hard to break some of the bolts loose. (you won't be able to get to two of them until you get the k-member down though).

Sorry, bout the long explanation, and I hope it sort of makes sense but if you've got any questions shoot me a PM. Its mostly the prepwork that takes time not the actual dropping of the k-member.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

Here is what I did, but i was on a lift with one of those built in air jack things. Disconnected the engine mounts, then jacked the engine up a little. Backed out all 6 bolts, still didn't have enough room to get the pan out. Disconnected the shocks from the top, still not enough room. Had two other guys help me push the k-member forward like an inch (a come along would have made this easier) and the oil pan just barely had enough room to come out. I didn't need to take the alternator or ac compressor off but like i said i jacked the engine up instead of using straps.

Looking back it would have been easier to unattach the brake lines and steering rack and drop it completely. It would have been real easy with the tranny out.