C5Blake

Hey yall, I'm a new guy to the forum. I recently purchased a 98 C5 vette, It's an M6 car with MTI head and cam package, it has all the things that go along with the package. I have a birthday coming up and want to get a new rotating assembl. Question is can I use my stock block or will I have to get another. I was also wondering if you all know about how much the whole shibang will cost ready to go. I sure appreciate your time in reading this and any help will be very helpful.


Thanks,
Blake

jrp

iTrader: (16)

you can re-use your old block but you'll need to have it machined..

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...hlight=stroker

your best bet is to type in "stroker" and search in the internal forum. there are countlesss great threads with all the info you need.

C5Blake

Thanks a lot man. I'll get right on that, by the way do you know how much more power do you get going from stock cubes to say 383?



Thanks again,
Blake

jrp

iTrader: (16)

to many variables, i.e h/c, intake, exhaust components. what strokers will give you is a nice fat *** torque curve

C5Blake

And that is precisely what I want. I'm browsing over the search results and can't seem to find a cost on the machine work I got a price on the kit, but could you give me a ball park of the machine shop work, and also what a speed shop might charge to do the work. I know its not possible to say exactaly, but I'd like to get some idea before I go to my mom asking for all this.


Thanks a lot,
Blake

jrp

iTrader: (16)

figure ~1k for block prep. honestly id look into getting a long block stroker from one of the sponsors; APE, HPE, TSP, ARE, ect all have great setups with are worth exploring. with the longblock all you'll need to do is drop the motor in and swap over all your accessories. also buying everything from one place should net you a discount over buying all the stuff seperately. where are you located?

beardWS6

iTrader: (1)

5-6 grand for a shortblock and then the heads! MTI sells there 387 stroker for 5995 shortblock. then the install cost and everything else. I can`t wait to build mine and then spray the hell out of it. Your heads now can be upgrade for about 700. So you have a good start! Good Luck!

C5Blake

Thanks a lot fot the info yall. I'll check on the sponsors deals. jrp I'm located in north Alabama. there realy isn't anyone around here I would trust to do the work, just a bunch of backwoods mechanics, so I suppose ordering one from one of the sponsors would be the best way to go.



Thanks again,
Blake

Jason 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

Blake,

Are you set in staying aluminum block, or have you considered a iron block stroker? As you probably know there about 50 million different routes you can go in building a stroker. We offer everything from a off-set ground stock crank stroker to big cube 450ci+ setups

Are you wanting to stay with your stock block?

ktmrider

Hey welcome C5Blake! You picked a good forum to ask questions in.
I also agree on the short/long block idea. Best bet is to decide just what you are hoping to achieve and go from there. My build got a little out of hand because I just kept adding to the wish list. Since you already have some MTI heads and related goodies, a short block might be the way to go. The above posts have some very good suggestions, I would also check www.keithcraftmotorsports.com for some really good prices, products, and customer service. I ordered my rotating assembly from Keith Craft with Eagle rods/crank,JE piston kit, ARP main studs, and shipping for $2200. I am good for up to 600HP on the motor if the desire to amp up the heads and cam come later. For now I am installing in daily driver truck and wanted to keep things tame and pass the sniffers once a year.
Good luck on your quest, keep us up on the progress!

Ben R

Welcome Blake!

If you're wanting to stick with your Aluminum 5.7L LS1 block, you can put a 427 short-block together for about $6,000! You've already got a set of MTI Stage 2 heads, so getting MTI to upgrade those to Stage 3's is only $500. Depending on what valvetrain you already have, you might not even need to switch any of it. The only thing you'll need is perhaps a double-roller timing chain if you don't already have one, and a larger camshaft.

I'm assuming that if your car already has a heads/cam package, it also has a good amount of bolt-on's, so you should be set in that department.

Re-Sleeved Aluminum LS1 Block - $2,400.00 from Race Engine Development
Eagle 4.000" Stroke Crankshaft - $950.00
Lunati Pro-Billet Rods - $650.00
Diamond Pistons & Rings - $650.00
Federal Mogul Bearings - $150.00
Thunder Racing Billet Main Caps - $420.00
ARP Main Stud Kit - $160.00
ARP Head Stud Kit - $240.00
Cometic 4.125" Headgaskets - $150.00

That's a Grand-Total of $5,900.

That doesn't include the short-block of the assembly, or any new gaskets you might need. You don't also want to forget that with a Darton MID Sleeved block, the use of Evans coolant should be used per Darton instruction. You can buy a couple gallons of this special coolant through Race Engine Development. As far as the machining of the block goes, Steve at Race Engine Development can do the machine work for you once he's fit your block with the new sleeves.

If I were in your shoes and had to go to my folks with a close price for the grand total of everything (Pulling your motor, pulling it apart, buying the parts, re-assembling your short-block, putting it back into your car, and tuning it) you're probably going to want to get close to $9,000/$9,500.

Good luck and let us know what your folks say!

C5Blake

Thanks yall, great info a lot I didn't know. Jason 98 TA, I am not set on aluminum at all, from what I have read so far theres doesn't seem to be much of a diffrence. I would like to get some more info on you'r stuff.



Thanks yall,
Blake

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

Welcome Blake.

Seems you already have quite a bit of info.
I am wondering what your goals are for your car?
Do you plan on racing the car at the track, or on the street?
Is this your daily driver?
I only ask because as you can see doing this setup is expensive.
Sometimes people do a bigger cubic inch trying to make more power and torque for a NA setup. Some dont care where the power comes from as long as it is there.
If you are looking for extra power that is always at your use another option would be to add a s/cer to your current setup.
You would produce much more power with a power adder and for the same or less money.
Just an idea.
Now if you are looking to rae this on a track with the use of Nitrous then forget about this post.
Just let us know what your goals are. There is a good chance you could achieve more with less.

C5Blake

Thanks for the info JZ'sTA. I would like to make around 520 or so at the rears with comparable torque numbers. I would like to do it without nitrous, but I understand thats not just real easy. Yea it is my daily driver, but it doesn't get driven a whole lot of miles just about 75 miles to school on sundays and back on fridays, and the about 30 miles in between. I was leaning toward a stroker because I was told it would be more reliable, but then again I might have been mis-informed, I am pretty much new to the performance game.


Thanks a lot,
Blake

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

Just a suggestion start a new post saying that you have x amount of money top spend. State WHAT YOUR GOALS ARE. Be very detailed when explaining what you do with the car and what you are trying to accomplish with the car.
In my own oponion I would lean towards a supercharger.
Better driveability b/c to make a stroker NA motor have massive power (520 or so) you will need a very radical cam and the car will be less driveable.
Let me know in a PM how much money you have to spend and I will do my best to guide you to the right info and give you my oponion as well.
There is no replacement for displacement but there is nothing like bolting on an extra 150 extra HP that is there all the time.