New noise from the 10-bolt; on it's way out?
07-25-2004, 06:26 PM
#1
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New noise from the 10-bolt; on it's way out? I'm on my original 10-bolt, and it started making a new noise the last couple days. It's sort of a "whirring" noise, that changes in pitch with vehicle speed, and is of constant volume on- and off-throttle, and in neutral. The sound is audible from about 40 MPH and up.
It's not gear whine - I have that too, and can hear it in addition to this new sound, but the whirring/howling is louder than the gear whine. To get an idea of how loud the sound is, I have a 224 cam with ORP and a Magnaflow straight-through muffler, and can hear it over the exhaust (whereas I can just barely make out the gear whine if I concentrate on it). It's not louder than the exhaust, just louder than gear whine and can be distinctly heard.
The new noise started after two WOT highway merges within 10 minutes of each other. I've checked under the car, and there doesn't appear to be any contact between parts that shouldn't otherwise be touching each other. My next diagnostic will be to pop the cover and have a look inside the pumpkin, but that will have to wait until next weekend (I'm out of town on business). Pending an actual visual inspection of the diff internals, any ideas what could be making a noise like this? Thanks!
-Brian G.
It's not gear whine - I have that too, and can hear it in addition to this new sound, but the whirring/howling is louder than the gear whine. To get an idea of how loud the sound is, I have a 224 cam with ORP and a Magnaflow straight-through muffler, and can hear it over the exhaust (whereas I can just barely make out the gear whine if I concentrate on it). It's not louder than the exhaust, just louder than gear whine and can be distinctly heard.
The new noise started after two WOT highway merges within 10 minutes of each other. I've checked under the car, and there doesn't appear to be any contact between parts that shouldn't otherwise be touching each other. My next diagnostic will be to pop the cover and have a look inside the pumpkin, but that will have to wait until next weekend (I'm out of town on business). Pending an actual visual inspection of the diff internals, any ideas what could be making a noise like this? Thanks!
-Brian G.
Last edited by Nightclaw; 07-30-2004 at 03:57 PM.
08-01-2004, 02:54 AM
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Same thing happened to me, I know something in my rear is shot. If i take it apart to se e what is wrong I'll post here about it. I think for both of us thoough its time for a 12bolt.
08-05-2004, 08:37 PM
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Well, here it is 1½ weeks later, and I still haven't dropped the cover. 
But I talked to a couple guys in the office who both used to operate their own repair shops, and the consensus is that the R&P are shot. So unless I find something catastrophic when I drop the cover on Saturday, I guess it's time to step up to taller gears (no, I don't have the money for a 12-bolt or 9" right now, so please don't tempt me
). I'm thinking 4.10's here.
That being said, knowing that the speedo will be off and that the ABS/TCS will not function, are there any other reasons I need to recalibrate the PCM for the gears? I'm not kidding - I'm on a shoestring budget right now, and if I can get away without having to reprogram the PCM, I need to postpone it for now. If it's an absolute requirement though, I'm going to have to stick with 3.42's - and let's be honest, who would want to do that? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
-BG
But I talked to a couple guys in the office who both used to operate their own repair shops, and the consensus is that the R&P are shot. So unless I find something catastrophic when I drop the cover on Saturday, I guess it's time to step up to taller gears (no, I don't have the money for a 12-bolt or 9" right now, so please don't tempt me). I'm thinking 4.10's here.That being said, knowing that the speedo will be off and that the ABS/TCS will not function, are there any other reasons I need to recalibrate the PCM for the gears? I'm not kidding - I'm on a shoestring budget right now, and if I can get away without having to reprogram the PCM, I need to postpone it for now. If it's an absolute requirement though, I'm going to have to stick with 3.42's - and let's be honest, who would want to do that?
Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!-BG
08-05-2004, 08:58 PM
#5
i just broke my rear-end probably a month ago and i had 4.10's and the sound that was comming from my rear-end before it broke was a loud WOWOWOWOW then when i was going WOT one night showing off for a girl 
, i go 2-3-2(rev limiter set at 6600), anyway it started clicking and by the time i got to her house it was clunking REAL hard, ring and pinion stripped and it had taken all the bearings with it. and im under waranty at the dealership so they pick it up and fix me up with a new set of 4.10's(by the way, i was using a HPP3 to calibrate my speedo, didnt want unecesary miles on my baby =]) ive had the new rear-end for about a month almost and i am comming to the point where i think i need to go back to the 3.42s because i am worried about the wear its putting on my car. and the 4.10's will just make your rear-end weaker. honestly its not worth putting 4.10's in a 10bolt... 
, i go 2-3-2(rev limiter set at 6600), anyway it started clicking and by the time i got to her house it was clunking REAL hard, ring and pinion stripped and it had taken all the bearings with it. and im under waranty at the dealership so they pick it up and fix me up with a new set of 4.10's(by the way, i was using a HPP3 to calibrate my speedo, didnt want unecesary miles on my baby =]) ive had the new rear-end for about a month almost and i am comming to the point where i think i need to go back to the 3.42s because i am worried about the wear its putting on my car. and the 4.10's will just make your rear-end weaker. honestly its not worth putting 4.10's in a 10bolt...
08-06-2004, 02:16 AM
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honestly its not worth putting 4.10's in a 10bolt...
Don't get me wrong though - I know that putting 4.10s in a 10-bolt is like putting lipstick on a pig.
But it's kind of what I'm stuck with right now. Besides, I made it 4-1/2 years on the stock 3.42s; I'm hoping to get a 9" for it in the next 12 months or so (thus, this is kind of a band-aid thing), so I think I can make the 10-bolt last at least that long. I hope. Maybe.Another issue I'm wrangling with is that I'm still running untuned on the cam, meaning that I'll probably have to shift to 5th at the track with 4.10s until I get my tuning done and raise the rev limiter. Right now, I don't know how long it will be before I can do programming (see above). So maybe 3.73s? <grrr> Decisions decisions.
08-06-2004, 10:05 AM
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Generally a whirring noise is bearings. I had the front pinion bearing go bad and it was noisier than hell. It went bad when it tried to digest pieces of my broken ring gear LOL. FWIW, my 4.10s havent been too bad...got 30k out of my first set...just no hard launches at the track, and I dont run DRs anymore on the street either.
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08-06-2004, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by MyLS1Hauls
Generally a whirring noise is bearings. I had the front pinion bearing go bad and it was noisier than hell. It went bad when it tried to digest pieces of my broken ring gear LOL. FWIW, my 4.10s havent been too bad...got 30k out of my first set...just no hard launches at the track, and I dont run DRs anymore on the street either.
Besides, with 50k on the clock, and damaged gears, I wouldn't put new ones in without new bearings anyway...
08-06-2004, 09:32 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Nightclaw
Well, I have to admit to something of an ulterior motive for wanting taller gears, that being that I want to get into the car's power band sooner at the track. With a 114 LSA cam, my power band has shifted upward and I want to take advantage of this opportunity to get better gearing for the cam.
Don't get me wrong though - I know that putting 4.10s in a 10-bolt is like putting lipstick on a pig. But it's kind of what I'm stuck with right now. Besides, I made it 4-1/2 years on the stock 3.42s; I'm hoping to get a 9" for it in the next 12 months or so (thus, this is kind of a band-aid thing), so I think I can make the 10-bolt last at least that long. I hope. Maybe.
Another issue I'm wrangling with is that I'm still running untuned on the cam, meaning that I'll probably have to shift to 5th at the track with 4.10s until I get my tuning done and raise the rev limiter. Right now, I don't know how long it will be before I can do programming (see above). So maybe 3.73s? <grrr> Decisions decisions.
Don't get me wrong though - I know that putting 4.10s in a 10-bolt is like putting lipstick on a pig.
But it's kind of what I'm stuck with right now. Besides, I made it 4-1/2 years on the stock 3.42s; I'm hoping to get a 9" for it in the next 12 months or so (thus, this is kind of a band-aid thing), so I think I can make the 10-bolt last at least that long. I hope. Maybe.Another issue I'm wrangling with is that I'm still running untuned on the cam, meaning that I'll probably have to shift to 5th at the track with 4.10s until I get my tuning done and raise the rev limiter. Right now, I don't know how long it will be before I can do programming (see above). So maybe 3.73s? <grrr> Decisions decisions.
ok if your going to do it, go with 4.10's not the 3.73's and since your keeping your 10bolt, at least give it a chance with a TA girdle, that might buy you some time.
08-08-2004, 09:12 PM
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Good (?) news! I dropped the cover yesterday, and it looks like the ring, pinion and differential (including all it's guts) are all in OK condition. However, I did have quite a lot of metal fragments in the oil. My suspicion at this point is the pinion bearing, as I'm getting seepage from around the pinion housing, and nothing else is visibly wrong inside the housing. Is changing the pinion bearing something that's relatively easy, or is this something best left to a driveline shop?
08-09-2004, 10:30 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Nightclaw
Good (?) news! I dropped the cover yesterday, and it looks like the ring, pinion and differential (including all it's guts) are all in OK condition. However, I did have quite a lot of metal fragments in the oil. My suspicion at this point is the pinion bearing, as I'm getting seepage from around the pinion housing, and nothing else is visibly wrong inside the housing. Is changing the pinion bearing something that's relatively easy, or is this something best left to a driveline shop?
