TCI SF3000 or SSF3500 for daily/street driven
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TCI SF3000 or SSF3500 for daily/street driven
I have the car in the sig.
I have pirelli Pzero tires. 295/35/18 on rear on OEM Z06 rims(gray)
They are stickier than the stock Goodyear RSAs.
They pick up every stone in the road.
I don't know if they are as sticky as drag radials
as I have never driven a car with them installed.
This is a daily driven street machine with 3.23 gears.
I only go to the track 2 times per year for fun.
I drive mostly in 35MPH zones and 45MPH zones.
I would say, out of my driving, 70% is in this speed range.
I usually only go on the highway if I am going on a trip
for the weekend.
I understand that on the highway, there will be
no difference compared to stock because of the LOCKUP.
I am currently getting the car modified at APE in detroit.
228/228 .571 .571 112LSA camshaft.
Stage II heads 5.7
LS6 oil pump, ported and polished
180 degree thermostat
Cr5 timing chain.
Jwiss adjustable timing set.
I'm debating about which converter to choose.
YANK is currently not producing or I would get a SS3600
because it is TIGHT.
I think the SSF3500 will not be as tight compared to SS3600.
The SS3600 was recommended by APE, but YANK is shutdown
right now because they are moving and getting in touch
with YANK is damn near impossible. I'm tired of waiting
on YANK. Now I'm going with TCI to get my car back.
I saw the video of the SSF3500 and I thought it was a
little on the loose side of things. Although the general
consensus was that this person was looser than most.
I'm HOPING if I had the SSF3500 it would be tighter at low RPM.
I'm SURE that the SF3000 would be tighter and be fine with me
loosness wise compared to the video of the SSF3500.
I just don't want to be kicking myself 2 months
later wishing I would have gone with the SSF3500
if I choose the SF3000.
I have never driven any car with any aftermarket TC in it.
I have read on here for most of my information/research.
I have read posts where some guys say their SSF3500
is tight and some say loose. I know most of it is opinion.
I'm trying to get a comparison to the stock TC
and to the video of the SSF3500 that I saw here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/179872-tci-ssf-3500-40-meg-video-city-driving-promised.html
On the street I drive "grandma" style most of the time.
Sometimes I want to drive a little more aggressively, by
starting off with 30% throttle and rolling to 50% throttle
after a few seconds. Usually this means holding the
throttle around 2200-2500RPM after getting off the line.
The next step is all out driving
when I drive as fast as my tires will take off the line, then
rolling to 100% throttle after a few seconds.
I want the car to be roughly the same when driving "grandma" style
and MORE aggressive than it is now when I drive more
aggressively. I'd also like the car to still move on level pavement
when I take my foot off the brake and do NOT touch the gas.
Any input would be fine on which one I should get.
thanks.
I have pirelli Pzero tires. 295/35/18 on rear on OEM Z06 rims(gray)
They are stickier than the stock Goodyear RSAs.
They pick up every stone in the road.
I don't know if they are as sticky as drag radials
as I have never driven a car with them installed.
This is a daily driven street machine with 3.23 gears.
I only go to the track 2 times per year for fun.
I drive mostly in 35MPH zones and 45MPH zones.
I would say, out of my driving, 70% is in this speed range.
I usually only go on the highway if I am going on a trip
for the weekend.
I understand that on the highway, there will be
no difference compared to stock because of the LOCKUP.
I am currently getting the car modified at APE in detroit.
228/228 .571 .571 112LSA camshaft.
Stage II heads 5.7
LS6 oil pump, ported and polished
180 degree thermostat
Cr5 timing chain.
Jwiss adjustable timing set.
I'm debating about which converter to choose.
YANK is currently not producing or I would get a SS3600
because it is TIGHT.
I think the SSF3500 will not be as tight compared to SS3600.
The SS3600 was recommended by APE, but YANK is shutdown
right now because they are moving and getting in touch
with YANK is damn near impossible. I'm tired of waiting
on YANK. Now I'm going with TCI to get my car back.
I saw the video of the SSF3500 and I thought it was a
little on the loose side of things. Although the general
consensus was that this person was looser than most.
I'm HOPING if I had the SSF3500 it would be tighter at low RPM.
I'm SURE that the SF3000 would be tighter and be fine with me
loosness wise compared to the video of the SSF3500.
I just don't want to be kicking myself 2 months
later wishing I would have gone with the SSF3500
if I choose the SF3000.
I have never driven any car with any aftermarket TC in it.
I have read on here for most of my information/research.
I have read posts where some guys say their SSF3500
is tight and some say loose. I know most of it is opinion.
I'm trying to get a comparison to the stock TC
and to the video of the SSF3500 that I saw here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/179872-tci-ssf-3500-40-meg-video-city-driving-promised.html
On the street I drive "grandma" style most of the time.
Sometimes I want to drive a little more aggressively, by
starting off with 30% throttle and rolling to 50% throttle
after a few seconds. Usually this means holding the
throttle around 2200-2500RPM after getting off the line.
The next step is all out driving
when I drive as fast as my tires will take off the line, then
rolling to 100% throttle after a few seconds.
I want the car to be roughly the same when driving "grandma" style
and MORE aggressive than it is now when I drive more
aggressively. I'd also like the car to still move on level pavement
when I take my foot off the brake and do NOT touch the gas.
Any input would be fine on which one I should get.
thanks.
#2
11 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
I wanted a ss3800, but because of the same reasons you stated I think I will go with the ssf3500.
TCI's are still good proven converters, and from my understanding that video you saw actually depicted the converter looser than normal for whatever reason, but its close.
Rule of thumb is to always pick a converter you want and then buy the next size up
the 3500 is a great compromise of drivability and performance, I would opt for that one.
TCI's are still good proven converters, and from my understanding that video you saw actually depicted the converter looser than normal for whatever reason, but its close.
Rule of thumb is to always pick a converter you want and then buy the next size up
the 3500 is a great compromise of drivability and performance, I would opt for that one.
#7
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
The 3500 is a little better match to your cam. You'll probably want a 850 - 900 rpm idle for granny style driving and that will pull at idle with a 3000, maybe even a bit too much. The advantage of the 3000 is that you may use slightly higher lock-up speeds to avoid cam surge down low. The 3000 will be tighter in that respect.
Trending Topics
#10
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for all the replies guys.
They are appreciated.
MUSTANGEATER
Could you describe your setup better?
Also your driving impressions?
Remember, I"m talking about a STREET car. I"m not sure if
your car is a track car or street car so our opinions might differ.
thanks
HUMANOID
Could you describe your setup better also?
Also your driving impressions in differences between the mw3000
vs. Yank SS4000 on the street.
How is that SS4000 on the street? How loose is it?
What RPM do you "normally" have to use to drive away from a traffic light?
thanks
99SSragtop
Your car is almost identical to mine mod wise. Although I am going
with a slightly bigger cam and stage II heads.
What gear do you have 2.73 or 3.23?
Does your car move on level ground when you take your foot off
the brake and give it NO gas?
You say it feels tight now, what RPM do you use to drive away
from a traffic light under "normal" conditions, just keeping up with traffic?
You say it feels tight now, do you mean it feels like stock again?
thanks.
Thanks to everyone. I"m getting in on the GP with thundar racing
as soon as I hear back from everyone. Can't beat the price!
They are appreciated.
MUSTANGEATER
Could you describe your setup better?
Also your driving impressions?
Remember, I"m talking about a STREET car. I"m not sure if
your car is a track car or street car so our opinions might differ.
thanks
HUMANOID
Could you describe your setup better also?
Also your driving impressions in differences between the mw3000
vs. Yank SS4000 on the street.
How is that SS4000 on the street? How loose is it?
What RPM do you "normally" have to use to drive away from a traffic light?
thanks
99SSragtop
Your car is almost identical to mine mod wise. Although I am going
with a slightly bigger cam and stage II heads.
What gear do you have 2.73 or 3.23?
Does your car move on level ground when you take your foot off
the brake and give it NO gas?
You say it feels tight now, what RPM do you use to drive away
from a traffic light under "normal" conditions, just keeping up with traffic?
You say it feels tight now, do you mean it feels like stock again?
thanks.
Thanks to everyone. I"m getting in on the GP with thundar racing
as soon as I hear back from everyone. Can't beat the price!
#11
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (2)
go as high as you want for track performance...on the street you'll blow the tires away with pretty much anything other then stock...even a 3500 is technically too small for even a stock ls1 and theres room to gain more with more stall. Personally if i was semi stock again the minimum i would go with is a 3800 stall...yes aftermarket converters are looser the stock, but you'll get used to it.
lata
Bill
lata
Bill
#13
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (10)
MUSTANGEATER
Could you describe your setup better?
Also your driving impressions?
Remember, I"m talking about a STREET car. I"m not sure if
your car is a track car or street car so our opinions might differ.
thanks
Could you describe your setup better?
Also your driving impressions?
Remember, I"m talking about a STREET car. I"m not sure if
your car is a track car or street car so our opinions might differ.
thanks
It's just the basic Heads/Cam/Spray Stock CID LS1
My TCI converter works better, I had a few problems with Yank back in the day and decided to switch over and never looked back. Yank's are good converters and there's no debating that I just had a bad expierence.
I'm not sure on your opinion of a street car but this converter is every day driveable IMHO. I've driven the car through heavy traffic with no problems and long trips on the highway (300+ Miles)