I received my Lunati 935 kit today!!!
#1
Components for my Lunati 395 (396)
I received my Lunati 395 kit today!!!
Christmas in August!
I'm taking the kit to the machine shop tomorrow, where my block has been waiting to come home with me for almost 2 months! I originally was planning on building a stock motor (converting a '94 3.4 V6 into this 395). I pieced together my parts over 6 months (ebay), and actually got the motor for a little over a grand ($300 for the short block).
When I finally received the last of the parts, I started to strip down the short block, I found that the previous owner had spun #6, and the crank was worn (anyone want to buy a worn crank?). So, I called around used my connections and ordered up the 395 kit.
I'm in Los Angeles, so I'm not sure what the smog ****'s will say at smog time, especially with me planning on going with the Lunati 55009LUN cam (with a custom 114 seperation grind, as per the guys at Lunati).
The car will still be a daily driver (I did it with a 383 so I'm hoping I can with a 395). The only trip to the track will probably be to shut the mouth of a certain F150 lighting owner that thinks he can beat Vettes.
Over the years that I have owned it, I have already upgraded the peg leg open 3.42 rear to a Zexel Torsen limited slip, RK Sport adj shocks, LS1 front brakes, rear drum to LT1 style rear disc, unibody chassis connectors, Goodyear 245/50 ZR16 GSD-3 tires.
My problem is since I purchased everything planning on a 346, which of the following components should be changed out (This is what I already have):
Many thanks in advance for any tips.
David
Christmas in August!
I'm taking the kit to the machine shop tomorrow, where my block has been waiting to come home with me for almost 2 months! I originally was planning on building a stock motor (converting a '94 3.4 V6 into this 395). I pieced together my parts over 6 months (ebay), and actually got the motor for a little over a grand ($300 for the short block).
When I finally received the last of the parts, I started to strip down the short block, I found that the previous owner had spun #6, and the crank was worn (anyone want to buy a worn crank?). So, I called around used my connections and ordered up the 395 kit.
I'm in Los Angeles, so I'm not sure what the smog ****'s will say at smog time, especially with me planning on going with the Lunati 55009LUN cam (with a custom 114 seperation grind, as per the guys at Lunati).
The car will still be a daily driver (I did it with a 383 so I'm hoping I can with a 395). The only trip to the track will probably be to shut the mouth of a certain F150 lighting owner that thinks he can beat Vettes.
Over the years that I have owned it, I have already upgraded the peg leg open 3.42 rear to a Zexel Torsen limited slip, RK Sport adj shocks, LS1 front brakes, rear drum to LT1 style rear disc, unibody chassis connectors, Goodyear 245/50 ZR16 GSD-3 tires.
My problem is since I purchased everything planning on a 346, which of the following components should be changed out (This is what I already have):
- LS1 intake (planning on going with LS6, the FAST is way too $$$ for me)
- Edelbrock #65732 Nickel Shorty Headers
- Stock Y pipe, although will have the muffler shop replace the flattened section
- Stock WS6 exhaust (hey it was free), for now
- Stock LS1 oil pump (I was going to port it and send it to Agostinos for coating), or should I get an LS6 pump? Arent they the same?
- Stock 28.8 injectors (do I need 30# SVO or 42.5 Green Lucas injectors?)
- Stock MAF and Throttle body.
- LS6 Valley Cover
- SLP lid and K&N filter will stay
- 99 ECU & engine Harness
- 2000 dash, dash harness and cluster & center console
- Profab LS1 K member
- T-56 (ordering complete rebuild kit and steel 3/4 shifter)
- I still need drive shaft, aluminum ok for the 395?
- Keeping the 10 bolt for now, may go (Moser?) 9" later
- Stock Timing chain and gear (will get a better one, but might not go double roller, is it really needed?)
- I have a set of stock heads and stock 317 heads. Should I port the stock, or use the 317, or sell both and get use the money towards AFR heads?
- Springs, stock LS1 and 317 springs. Should I replace with Patriot gold?
- Stock lifters and pushrods
- Stock 99 (or 2000?) plastic gas tank and fuel pump.
Many thanks in advance for any tips.
David
Last edited by ROCNDAV; 08-26-2005 at 02:02 PM.
#2
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Thoes shory headers are gona choke the power on that motor big time. I wouldnt risk all that money to an LS1 oil pump, dont install it unless its an LS6, ported that is. For injectors you will need the SVO 30#ers. Bigger MAF (LS6 maf) and a ported throttle body. For the Drive shaft id get a nitrous ready drive shaft. With the amount of Tq that 395 is gona make your gona twist thats aluminum like its nothing. That 10 bolt will not survive the first time you romp on it, again becasue of the TQ. Get a better timing chain that stock, they can and have failed. A motor like that is pointless without ported heads. again you will be putting a choke on the breathing of the motor. Its no question, you will need a double spring. stock lifter will be okay depending on the lift of the cam, and get hardend pushrods.
Got expensive didnt it. Thoes are just the min that anyone would recomend for a motor like that. When putting that kind of money into a project, you cant skip on some of the quality of the parts.
Got expensive didnt it. Thoes are just the min that anyone would recomend for a motor like that. When putting that kind of money into a project, you cant skip on some of the quality of the parts.
#3
Originally Posted by stang killer
For the Drive shaft id get a nitrous ready drive shaft. With the amount of Tq that 395 is gona make your gona twist thats aluminum like its nothing. That 10 bolt will not survive the first time you romp on it, again becasue of the TQ.
Originally Posted by stang killer
A motor like that is pointless without ported heads. again you will be putting a choke on the breathing of the motor.
Originally Posted by stang killer
Its no question, you will need a double spring. stock lifter will be okay depending on the lift of the cam, and get hardend pushrods.
http://holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Pr...CC/Chevy6.html
(last one on the bottom: 55009LUN)
But Lunati suggested that I have the seperation changed to 114°
Originally Posted by stang killer
Got expensive didnt it.
#4
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A stock LS1 can snap the 10 bolt, just pray that you dont get traction. For the heads, Id look at a set of patriots with theyre dual valve spring already installed, and talk to them about a cam thats matched to the flow charateristics of the head. With that cam you will be ok with stock lifters, just jeck wht condition therye in. Id also look to a spec stage 3 to hold the kind of numbers your gona be putting up. Also look into some ARP rod bolts. For the headers id check around for a set of the thunder racing headers in the 1-7/8 size to help that motor breathe. Its late right now, but ill look through your set up more after I get some rest, and others will chime in. As or right now you should think about what you need to support the amount of power your gona be making(fuel system, driveine, intake and exhaust)
#7
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[list=1][*]LS1 intake (planning on going with LS6, the FAST is way too $$$ for me)[*]Edelbrock #65732 Nickel Shorty Headers [*]Stock Y pipe, although will have the muffler shop replace the flattened section [*]Stock WS6 exhaust (hey it was free), for now[*]Stock LS1 oil pump (I was going to port it and send it to Agostinos for coating), or should I get an LS6 pump? Arent they the same?[*]Stock 28.8 injectors (do I need 30# SVO or 42.5 Green Lucas injectors?)[*]Stock MAF and Throttle body.[*]LS6 Valley Cover[*]SLP lid and K&N filter will stay[*]99 ECU & engine Harness[*]2000 dash, dash harness and cluster & center console[*]Profab LS1 K member and tubular A Arms[*]T-56 (ordering complete rebuild kit and stell shifter)[*]I still need drive shaft, aluminum ok for the 395?[*]Keeping the 10 bolt for now, may go (Moser?) 9" later[*]Stock Timing chain and gear (will get a better one, but might not go double roller, is it really needed?)[*]I have a set of stock heads and stock 317 heads. Should I port the stock, or use the 317, or sell both and get use the money towards AFR heads?[*]Springs, stock LS1 and 317 springs. Should I replace with Patriot gold?[*]Stock lifters and pushrods[*][font=arial][size=2][font=Verdana]Stock 99 (or 2000?) plastic gas tank and fuel pump.
2. shorties , you'll choke the **** out of the motor. if you are willing to accept that its fine
3. dont bother ******* with the Y if your keeping the shorties, the stock flat Y flows just as well as those aftermarket replacements.
4. see 2nd part of #2
5. get an ls6 pump from any one of the sponsors and get a new o-ring. im partial to TSP for there great price
6. get the 30#'ers, you'll most likely be rurnning to high of an injector duty cycle with the 28#'s.
7. stock MAF is fine; TB see #4
8-13.
14. depends on your application, daily driving the stock aluminum DS is fine.
15. see first part of #14
16. you shouldnt even have to ask
17. my understanding is the AFR 225's are some time off, even when they are available im sure they'll be hard to come by due to demand. you can sell the stock heads you have and put that ~500 bucks toward the AFR's or look into another sponsors ported 6.0 heads.
18. see #16
19. see #16
20. get the tank and look into the Racetronixs fuel pump setup. (255 intake w/ plug and play harness)
Trending Topics
#9
Originally Posted by jrp
what kind of pistons come with the kit? dished or flat top?
http://holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Pr.../IECP/LS1.html
The complete rotating kit is the EA035-395 more specs on this web site:
http://holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Pr..._LS6Rotat.html
Last edited by ROCNDAV; 06-09-2009 at 11:59 AM.
#10
Originally Posted by jrp
1. ls6 is good but your leaving power on the table
Originally Posted by jrp
2. shorties , you'll choke the **** out of the motor. if you are willing to accept that its fine
Originally Posted by jrp
Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
4. Stock WS6 exhaust (hey it was free), for now
Originally Posted by jrp
6. get the 30#'ers, you'll most likely be rurnning to high of an injector duty cycle with the 28#'s.
Originally Posted by jrp
7. stock MAF is fine; TB see #4
Originally Posted by jrp
16. you shouldnt even have to ask
Originally Posted by jrp
17. my understanding is the AFR 225's are some time off, even when they are available im sure they'll be hard to come by due to demand. you can sell the stock heads you have and put that ~500 bucks toward the AFR's or look into another sponsors ported 6.0 heads.
Originally Posted by jrp
20. get the tank and look into the Racetronixs fuel pump setup. (255 intake w/ plug and play harness)
Thanks for the tips!
D