p0101 Maf performance code after heads install
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p0101 Maf performance code after heads install
I went over this with the corvette forum and can't seem to get an answer. This is my last chance before I bring the car into a shop. Heres the thread just in case. corvette forum topic
Heres what happened.
I installed a set of ported heads on my 99 C5 and now I can't get rid of this p0101 code. I have done just about everything I can think of, pulled intake 6x to check for leaks, gone over the rockers in the right procedure couple times, switched sides of coil packs, inspected maf, changed 3 mafs, checked wires to maf. I've got nothing.
Car idles rough, sounds like its not firing on all cylinders, this p0101 is the only code I get.
I really hope someone can crack this problem for me. Its drivin me nuts
Heres what happened.
I installed a set of ported heads on my 99 C5 and now I can't get rid of this p0101 code. I have done just about everything I can think of, pulled intake 6x to check for leaks, gone over the rockers in the right procedure couple times, switched sides of coil packs, inspected maf, changed 3 mafs, checked wires to maf. I've got nothing.
Car idles rough, sounds like its not firing on all cylinders, this p0101 is the only code I get.
I really hope someone can crack this problem for me. Its drivin me nuts
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I remember reading something about how, in some
cases, you can deck the heads and then the dowel
pin hole is too shallow to let the head seat down
all the way. That would suck but it happens. If these
are milled heads then you may want to get it idling,
pull the throttle cable (I think, but do not know for
sure, that this will leave you at a fixed throttle
position holding idle TPS) and then go blow propane
at the head-block seam and check for leaks there
(by ear, old-school).
When you say checked wires, do you mean you
have found 12V on one, and 5V on the other along
with a frequency of about 2500Hz riding on the
"5V" wire at idle? Or just physical check?
Do you have logger data of MAF frequency? That
would be a fine thing to look at, for sensibleness.
cases, you can deck the heads and then the dowel
pin hole is too shallow to let the head seat down
all the way. That would suck but it happens. If these
are milled heads then you may want to get it idling,
pull the throttle cable (I think, but do not know for
sure, that this will leave you at a fixed throttle
position holding idle TPS) and then go blow propane
at the head-block seam and check for leaks there
(by ear, old-school).
When you say checked wires, do you mean you
have found 12V on one, and 5V on the other along
with a frequency of about 2500Hz riding on the
"5V" wire at idle? Or just physical check?
Do you have logger data of MAF frequency? That
would be a fine thing to look at, for sensibleness.
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Originally Posted by jimmyblue
I remember reading something about how, in some
cases, you can deck the heads and then the dowel
pin hole is too shallow to let the head seat down
all the way. That would suck but it happens. If these
are milled heads then you may want to get it idling,
pull the throttle cable (I think, but do not know for
sure, that this will leave you at a fixed throttle
position holding idle TPS) and then go blow propane
at the head-block seam and check for leaks there
(by ear, old-school).
When you say checked wires, do you mean you
have found 12V on one, and 5V on the other along
with a frequency of about 2500Hz riding on the
"5V" wire at idle? Or just physical check?
Do you have logger data of MAF frequency? That
would be a fine thing to look at, for sensibleness.
cases, you can deck the heads and then the dowel
pin hole is too shallow to let the head seat down
all the way. That would suck but it happens. If these
are milled heads then you may want to get it idling,
pull the throttle cable (I think, but do not know for
sure, that this will leave you at a fixed throttle
position holding idle TPS) and then go blow propane
at the head-block seam and check for leaks there
(by ear, old-school).
When you say checked wires, do you mean you
have found 12V on one, and 5V on the other along
with a frequency of about 2500Hz riding on the
"5V" wire at idle? Or just physical check?
Do you have logger data of MAF frequency? That
would be a fine thing to look at, for sensibleness.
Heads can't be milled to much there are tons of others running around with the same compression as me. Vettes don't have throttle cables, its computer controlled. when I checked the wires I just made sure they werent crimped damaged. I guess I should check the volts on them next. I dont have a logger, just a obd2 scanner.