Which x-pipe position gives the most tsp dual clearance?
11-25-2004, 01:30 PM
#1
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Beachwood, Ohio
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Which x-pipe position gives the most tsp dual clearance? I am finally installing my duals. I notice that the x-pipe is not completely flat. One side of the x pipe has a ridge/weld in the center that is built up. Should this side point up toward the floorboard or towards the ground for max clearance?
Would a muffler shop be able to bend the x pipe muffler outlets so the bullets would not flare outward.
This is odd, because on the TSP site, they show a picture of the duals with bullets that do not not flare outside the tunnel. The bullets in the picture go straight back.
My car has a eibach prokit and having the bullet mufflers in the tunnel would give me a few inches of clearance. I asked about this when I bought the kit and I was told that the duals will work with a lowered car. I am sure that they will if the bullets sit in the tunnel.
Would a muffler shop be able to bend the x pipe muffler outlets so the bullets would not flare outward.
This is odd, because on the TSP site, they show a picture of the duals with bullets that do not not flare outside the tunnel. The bullets in the picture go straight back.
My car has a eibach prokit and having the bullet mufflers in the tunnel would give me a few inches of clearance. I asked about this when I bought the kit and I was told that the duals will work with a lowered car. I am sure that they will if the bullets sit in the tunnel.
Last edited by shep28; 11-25-2004 at 08:19 PM.
11-28-2004, 02:46 PM
#5
Originally Posted by shep28
I am finally installing my duals. I notice that the x-pipe is not completely flat. One side of the x pipe has a ridge/weld in the center that is built up. Should this side point up toward the floorboard or towards the ground for max clearance?
Would a muffler shop be able to bend the x pipe muffler outlets so the bullets would not flare outward.
This is odd, because on the TSP site, they show a picture of the duals with bullets that do not not flare outside the tunnel. The bullets in the picture go straight back.
My car has a eibach prokit and having the bullet mufflers in the tunnel would give me a few inches of clearance. I asked about this when I bought the kit and I was told that the duals will work with a lowered car. I am sure that they will if the bullets sit in the tunnel.
Would a muffler shop be able to bend the x pipe muffler outlets so the bullets would not flare outward.
This is odd, because on the TSP site, they show a picture of the duals with bullets that do not not flare outside the tunnel. The bullets in the picture go straight back.
My car has a eibach prokit and having the bullet mufflers in the tunnel would give me a few inches of clearance. I asked about this when I bought the kit and I was told that the duals will work with a lowered car. I am sure that they will if the bullets sit in the tunnel.
As far as the bullets flaring out, I have seen some older pics of TSP duals where the bullets are flared out but the newer pics I have seen tuck right next to the drive line like mine. I don't know if they originally made them wider then changed or ? Did you buy yours recently?
11-28-2004, 02:50 PM
#6
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Vertigo
Posts: 955
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ideally(sp?), you want to be able to squeeze your fingers in between the pipe and the frame rail on the drivers side low point. Anything more, and you're going to scrape on occasion. Anything less, and it will hit the frame rail on acceleration.
If you have a gangster cam, you may need a little more room there. You can tuck it up more and 'flatten' the pipe there a bit - which WON'T hurt flow ANY. Or just deal with the scraping - which IMO is better than the pipe hitting the floor-board whenever you get on the gas. Giving you false knock and generally diving you crazy.
The biggest problem I see in the TSP systems is behind the X. The 'tail-pipes' are too far apart and not tucked into the DS tunnel enough. You can have them rebuilt closer together - or just 'squeeze' them closer together on the ground. Not sure how well that will work on their system, but it's been done before. Also - the hangers will soon be an issue, because under hard torque on a powerful motor, the drivers side hanger will eventually rip out of the floor-board. We had to change our hanger system after seeing that happen too many times. Plus, the little square bushings are too stiff and they transfer a lot of vibration.
Bottom line: Get the system up as far as you can up front, but allow for your fingers to go in between the pipe and frame-rail. Out back, do the same, if not even closer - within 1/2" or so - between the mufflers and floor-boards. Oh yeah, 'flip' the fuel lines on their brackets so that the lines run ABOVE the mounting screws - which are 10mm. This is easy to do, may take some grunt - but will move your fuel lines away from the heat and give you more room to tuck the system higher.
Do that and you should be ok, unless your car is on the ground low...
If you have a gangster cam, you may need a little more room there. You can tuck it up more and 'flatten' the pipe there a bit - which WON'T hurt flow ANY. Or just deal with the scraping - which IMO is better than the pipe hitting the floor-board whenever you get on the gas. Giving you false knock and generally diving you crazy.
The biggest problem I see in the TSP systems is behind the X. The 'tail-pipes' are too far apart and not tucked into the DS tunnel enough. You can have them rebuilt closer together - or just 'squeeze' them closer together on the ground. Not sure how well that will work on their system, but it's been done before. Also - the hangers will soon be an issue, because under hard torque on a powerful motor, the drivers side hanger will eventually rip out of the floor-board. We had to change our hanger system after seeing that happen too many times. Plus, the little square bushings are too stiff and they transfer a lot of vibration.
Bottom line: Get the system up as far as you can up front, but allow for your fingers to go in between the pipe and frame-rail. Out back, do the same, if not even closer - within 1/2" or so - between the mufflers and floor-boards. Oh yeah, 'flip' the fuel lines on their brackets so that the lines run ABOVE the mounting screws - which are 10mm. This is easy to do, may take some grunt - but will move your fuel lines away from the heat and give you more room to tuck the system higher.
Do that and you should be ok, unless your car is on the ground low...
11-28-2004, 02:51 PM
#7
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Vertigo
Posts: 955
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by code4
Look at this pic, if this is the ridge you are referring to it goes down. It gives some clearance for the torque arm as you can see in the pic.
As far as the bullets flaring out, I have seen some older pics of TSP duals where the bullets are flared out but the newer pics I have seen tuck right next to the drive line like mine. I don't know if they originally made them wider then changed or ? Did you buy yours recently?
As far as the bullets flaring out, I have seen some older pics of TSP duals where the bullets are flared out but the newer pics I have seen tuck right next to the drive line like mine. I don't know if they originally made them wider then changed or ? Did you buy yours recently?
Trending Topics
11-28-2004, 04:43 PM
#8
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Beachwood, Ohio
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Lane
Ideally(sp?), you want to be able to squeeze your fingers in between the pipe and the frame rail on the drivers side low point. Anything more, and you're going to scrape on occasion. Anything less, and it will hit the frame rail on acceleration.
If you have a gangster cam, you may need a little more room there. You can tuck it up more and 'flatten' the pipe there a bit - which WON'T hurt flow ANY. Or just deal with the scraping - which IMO is better than the pipe hitting the floor-board whenever you get on the gas. Giving you false knock and generally diving you crazy.
The biggest problem I see in the TSP systems is behind the X. The 'tail-pipes' are too far apart and not tucked into the DS tunnel enough. You can have them rebuilt closer together - or just 'squeeze' them closer together on the ground. Not sure how well that will work on their system, but it's been done before. Also - the hangers will soon be an issue, because under hard torque on a powerful motor, the drivers side hanger will eventually rip out of the floor-board. We had to change our hanger system after seeing that happen too many times. Plus, the little square bushings are too stiff and they transfer a lot of vibration.
Bottom line: Get the system up as far as you can up front, but allow for your fingers to go in between the pipe and frame-rail. Out back, do the same, if not even closer - within 1/2" or so - between the mufflers and floor-boards. Oh yeah, 'flip' the fuel lines on their brackets so that the lines run ABOVE the mounting screws - which are 10mm. This is easy to do, may take some grunt - but will move your fuel lines away from the heat and give you more room to tuck the system higher.
Do that and you should be ok, unless your car is on the ground low...
If you have a gangster cam, you may need a little more room there. You can tuck it up more and 'flatten' the pipe there a bit - which WON'T hurt flow ANY. Or just deal with the scraping - which IMO is better than the pipe hitting the floor-board whenever you get on the gas. Giving you false knock and generally diving you crazy.
The biggest problem I see in the TSP systems is behind the X. The 'tail-pipes' are too far apart and not tucked into the DS tunnel enough. You can have them rebuilt closer together - or just 'squeeze' them closer together on the ground. Not sure how well that will work on their system, but it's been done before. Also - the hangers will soon be an issue, because under hard torque on a powerful motor, the drivers side hanger will eventually rip out of the floor-board. We had to change our hanger system after seeing that happen too many times. Plus, the little square bushings are too stiff and they transfer a lot of vibration.
Bottom line: Get the system up as far as you can up front, but allow for your fingers to go in between the pipe and frame-rail. Out back, do the same, if not even closer - within 1/2" or so - between the mufflers and floor-boards. Oh yeah, 'flip' the fuel lines on their brackets so that the lines run ABOVE the mounting screws - which are 10mm. This is easy to do, may take some grunt - but will move your fuel lines away from the heat and give you more room to tuck the system higher.
Do that and you should be ok, unless your car is on the ground low...
Lowest part is the tube that connects to the driver side header collector. So do you think I should have the hangers welded on- not bolted? My car has a 231 cam and produces 410HP with all the other mods. I love the sound of the system. Very loud. Very very loud and deep. The sound of the cam and the bass is bad ***. The only thing I don't care for is the strong fuel odor that sticks to everything around the car. Don't think I will be taking my little girl for rides in the backseat.
I did have a thought about the clearance issue. Poly spring spacers in the rear might help raise the car just enough to keep the lowered look, but prevent the dual tips from ever scraping.
What do you think?
11-28-2004, 08:14 PM
#9
Here is a pic from the front and from the back before I welded it together. It was clamped at this stage and I drove it around for a couple of days to make sure there wasn't any changes that needed to be made. I used a large rubber mallet to move the pieces around until it was right. It looked like it wouldn't fit right at first but it did. I am not lowered and have QTP headers.
11-28-2004, 10:47 PM
#10
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Beachwood, Ohio
Posts: 486
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by code4
Here is a pic from the front and from the back before I welded it together. It was clamped at this stage and I drove it around for a couple of days to make sure there wasn't any changes that needed to be made. I used a large rubber mallet to move the pieces around until it was right. It looked like it wouldn't fit right at first but it did. I am not lowered and have QTP headers.
11-28-2004, 11:34 PM
#12
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Vertigo
Posts: 955
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by shep28
...The only thing I don't care for is the strong fuel odor that sticks to everything around the car. Don't think I will be taking my little girl for rides in the backseat.
I did have a thought about the clearance issue. Poly spring spacers in the rear might help raise the car just enough to keep the lowered look, but prevent the dual tips from ever scraping.
What do you think?
I did have a thought about the clearance issue. Poly spring spacers in the rear might help raise the car just enough to keep the lowered look, but prevent the dual tips from ever scraping.
What do you think?
). If you haven't gotten a re-tune since the duals - you need to anyway to maximize gains with them. They GREATLY increase exhaust flow over a Y-system and your air/fuel is going to be wacked without adjusting for them. You shouldn't be having the fuel/exhaust smell problem. It's fixable. Instead of raising the rear - I would have the tail pipes redone angling upward into the DS tunnel as close to the TA and DS as possible - but still even(looking) from the rear.
11-29-2004, 07:31 AM
#13
That picture with the pepsi can is the driver side & you can see the torque arm. And no I didn't weld the hangars, I welded all the pipe joints together after I was sure the exhaust was lined up correctly.
