1 BLOWN V8

iTrader: (17)

Hey all:
I have heard both ways so I want some input please before I do a stall.

Also this will be for my 02 Z-28. Note: In the near future I may be doing a heads and cam.

1st what I am looking for is mid and top end. I probualy wont even make it to the track and if I do it will not be on a tire. I want something when I am going 30MPH and hammer it and it will respond or even on the freeway and hammer it at 65MPH and it will take off like a monster.

Does a stall only help on the takeoff?

Does a stall help both on stop and when normal driving and you hammer on it?

I want to purchase one but not if it wont help for mid and top end
accleration.

Or would a set of gears be the way to go for what I am looking for? I have 273 stock gears in there right now.

5LiterBeater

I believe that converters only help with your initial launch, after that the converter acts normally, but again there are more experienced people than me out there for that info too.

This is mainly just a TTT for ya because I want to know too.

obZidian

iTrader: (2)

from wat ive gathered, any given stall will have a particular trade off that give it its attributes.

First,(and not necesarily in this order) the stall torque ratio should be considered when choosing a stall. A higher stall ratio will give you a tighter feeling stall. You wont have to give it so much for the car or truck to go. However, the higher the stall ratio, the less efficient it will be at the top end. Now, depending on the stall, that drop in efficiency is practically minimal.

Second is the stall rating. Basically where do you want the most efficiency in your powerband. Again that doesnt mean that below or under that rating the stall will just "float" and not transfer power but it is an indication of the sweet spot.

Third, Which now that i think about it, this should be the first one!! Wat is your application. You said that you will barely go to the track. So take driveability into consideration. I personally wouldnt want a stall on the street that would require me to rev it to 1800-2500 to get it moving. That would be to loose!!

If you go to the yank site, the have a great link to all of this stuff in more detail.....its a sponsor--------------------------------------------------------------------->>>

MY personal suggestion would be their ss3600. High stall rating for street use and has of the best effeciency ratings around IMO of course. check them out, Also you could try TCI, they are cheaper and also a sponsor.

I personally went for the yank for my new motor, the ss3600........i'll let you know how it turns out!!

LAterz

Red 01SS

iTrader: (2)

I have a SS3600 and I love it!! Great around town and KILLER at the track.

Scotty-Z

iTrader: (5)

What's your STR with those 3.23s?

GregWS6&z28

iTrader: (8)

a stall will help with some of our "flat spots" in the midrange and it will increase performance up-top since shift extensions are improved tremendously. Thats why we'd be able to hang or beat M6's

Red 01SS

iTrader: (2)

2.5 I believe

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

An efficent 3500+ stall will help big time when racing from a roll. It totally cures the dead spot on the 1-2 upshift and helps a bit on the 2-3 upshift too. My YTP 4200 was awesome from a roll; keeping the rpms well above 5,000 rpm on both upshifts.

git_sum

iTrader: (10)

Yeah it helps all the way through, and really cures that 30-45 dead spot in an auto. I've got an Art Carr 3500 at a 2.4str and i love it, wish i woulda went bigger. Just make sure you get a lock-up style converter so your gas mileage doesn't suck.

1jfuddle

iTrader: (7)

A stall converter will be inherently less efficient than the stock one. Where the converter makes you faster is primarily on launching. It also helps with shift extension which is the dead spot you will feel after the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts. Also, the stock converter weighs more than 20 lbs more than the average stall converter. That is pure rotating mass which will allow your engine to rev faster. As far as top end, converter choice is the key. If you get a converter with a negative pump, it will feel juicier around town and hit harder from a stop, but it will loose efficiency compared with a converter with a positive pump. Another option is to step up to a converter with a big enough clutch that it can handle being locked up at WOT. While a lot of companies advertise that their basic converters can handle this, the clutch is just too small to take it too many times. It will handle it, but after a while, that clutch will burn out leaving you with a bad converter. That is when you need to step to a better converter with a clutch that can handle WOT lockup with serious hp time and time again. Those converters cost more, but with a converter locked at WOT, your efficiency is nearly 100%. With a converter that can be locked like that, you can use a negative pump for punch down low then lock it up top and in effect, you are then faster off the line and up top. So basically, it depends on the converter you get if you will gain top end power or loose it. Either way the converter will make you faster.