98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

any idea how much you could work a stock crank? I saw some posts about getting 351ci outta the stock crank..

is that the most you could offset/grind the stocker?

Race Car Driver

how much what?

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

how many cubes can you get from grinding the stock crank

git_sum

iTrader: (10)

i've heard of a offset ground 366

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

thats what i thought.. but on the searches, I only saw where most offset ground theirs to 351... I thought some had went to 355-356ish with the stock crank ground

Im just doing a budget buildup and looking for power under budget

SPANKY LS1

iTrader: (24)

Budget- Are you planning on reusing stock pistons, or going to go with some forged slugs?

Shawn

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

pretty sure im going with something a lil lighter than stock in the piston department..

I was debating about the rods and whether or not to replace those also...If not, then ill slap arp rob bolts in there atleast

thats why i was wondering about the crank will I was in there

Another_User

It is not a good idea if you are ever going to do forced induction or nitrous.

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

had n20 once.. never planning on going that route again or getting a blower.. Im 99.9% sure im gonna stay NA for the rest of the cars life.. just want as much power as possible outta this lil bottom end without resleeving anything

correct me if im wrong.. bit if i did offset the crank I would thus need new rods also correct?

SPANKY LS1

iTrader: (24)

Well, the problem with offset crank is that you would need custom pistons (I've never seen a set of "shelf" pistons for a offset ground crank) IIRC, TSP was using Nascar takeoff rods for their offset crank 366. So, with the cost of custom pistons, the whole budget thing goes bye bye.

Shawn

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

unless you are bestest of bestest friends hopefully with the machine shop HAHAAHHA

i just wanted some ideas.. the motor's at the machine shop now and just looking at different routes I can go before the bottom end is finished being prepped

FELBER632

If you offset grind the carnk to increase stroke, it's done by going to a smaller rod journal diameter. So that usually means using a common rod size from a different engine platform, and of course since the stroke is increased, the compression height of the piston changes, and you will either need to replace them, or machine the top of them down to compensate for the new stack height. So basically it comes down to the cost of machining a cast crank's cost, combined with new rods and pistons.....All you get is less cubes, and weaker parts for a few bucks less than buying a stroker rotating assembly....Just my 02

Felber

Another_User

PREDATOR-Z

You could use a stock crank with a 6.0 block and get a 370ci. Much cheaper as you can find blocks for around 400$.

To give an idea
370 cid
GM 6.0L Iron Block
Stock 3.62" crank - nodular iron
Manley Sportsman rods 6.100"
Wiseco flat top forged aluminum pistons 4.030" bore

OR

You can get a 402 "iron" from SLP (shortblock)
Features
Built entirely from brand-new parts.
Sold outright—no cores required!
GM LQ9 iron 6.0-liter block (includes block plugs)
4.000" Eagle 4340 forged steel crankshaft, balanced to rotating assembly
4.000" Ross 2618 forged alloy pistons with -6.00cc dish (includes new rings and full-float pins)
402-CID displacement
Eagle 6.125" H-beam rods
Includes new, factory-installed cam bearings; Clevite rod and main bearings
11.3:1 compression ratio (nominal; ultimate compression ratio will depend upon heads and gaskets used)
Designed for naturally aspirated applications
Capable of supporting up to 600hp
Meticulously assembled to OEM tolerances and specifications.
Oil pump, timing chain, camshaft, pans, plates, and covers not included.

Both are in the same price range 3550$$