Vortech5300

Is it possible to go high 11s, NA with bolt ons only? I mean no heads or cam, just bolts ons, stock weight with a M6? I read on another ls1 site its possible but...seems a little fishy... One of the times was 11.60@118 with just bolt ons and a M6, not sure about the weight but it did have front runners. My car goes 11.50s on spray now, I would like 11.80s-11.90s NA without going into the motor other then bolt ons. Possible?

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

At stock weight, no. 3200 lbs, maybe.

DMcRacer

iTrader: (2)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-racing-results/273788-quickest-stock-internals-list-11-82-bump.html

Vortech5300

DMC, thats a good link. Doesn't show the bolt on choices though, only weight, converter/clutch and date. I am wonder which bolt on combos people are getting the most power out of so I know what to stay away from. Also it seems a lot of those were lightened up some. Not sure what they are stripping off to shed 200-300lbs but.. would like to know.

BlueSix

Headers, 12 bolt, gears, pulley, ported TB, lid, LS6 intake, cutout, clutch, shifter. Also get some race wheels (weld, bogart), ET streets, and a lot of suspesnsion work. You can get there at stock weight if you know how to drive.

DMcRacer

iTrader: (2)

You might want to check out the External Engine section on this website to learn about the bolt ons. When I was running stock internals I removed the following items for weight reduction: front sway bar, spare tire & jack, all seats except the drivers, wind shield washer fluid, floor matts, any loose change, etc. Less than 1/4 tank of gas. That is the basic, easy weight reduction. There is a weight reduction list at the top of this page if want to get serious.

Vortech5300

Ya I guess I will need a little more power then cause I ain't strippin my car except for maybe pollution stuff.

My future mods will include, Long tubes, O/R Y pipe, LS6 intake, ported TB, and maybe a pulley. Plus when the rear end blows I will probably get a 12bolt with 4.10s. I guess I will need to add a cam to the list now. Would like 11.80s, stock weight and street suspension(not drag type setup) on motor. Guess its gonna take a little more then I thought. OR I could just keep spraying it and run 11.50s w/ 1.8 60's on drag radials. LOL Its cheaper

Thanks fellas!


BTW Bluesix, you playin with bikes to huh? I have a busa with a turbo, thats my main money pit, this LS1 stuff is just the daily ride, thats why I don't have lots of money to spend on H/C etc.

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

with 4.10's, headers,cutout, lid, good clutch, stock rims all around and stock size 245 nittos the car went 12.3@113 i think with a 1.8 60ft with some relocation brackets being my only suspension mod, car weighed 3650lbs. add a pulley, ftra kit, ported tb, light weight rims with front runners and some big et radials out back and with halfway decent weather 11's wouldnt be a problem.

Vortech5300

Damn dude, your call is phuckin rollin. Even when it was stock it was rollin, 12.3@113 out of a M6 with no cam or spray, sweet runs. This car went 12.90s a few times but the owner was really babying the car, about 3k rpm launches/bogs, not power shifting, I think the 60' was a high 1.80, maybe low 1.90. I think with some good driving, ET streets if it all holds together it would go 12.80s maybe even a 12.70. Since it was at the track last, he put a McLeod single disk in about 3-4 yrs ago and it only has gotten about 5k miles on it since then and no passes at the strip so the clutch "should" be good to go but... He had a slave crash last summer and had a local dude put a new slave and master cylinder in it, hopefully its the updated one. Now the car is a lot lower though so it may not hook as good. Since the track we put lower control arms, Random torque arm, clutch/slave replacements. I would LOVE for it to go 12.70@108-109 on motor and 11.30@122 on spray but..it will probably pop the drive shaft or rear end first.

Thanks for the tips, gonna check Thunderracing out.

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

gears in a stick car make a huge difference but if you gunna do gears and put it to the ground your rear will die with good tires so theres your next 2 mods

Vortech5300

Hey bro, ? for ya. When I do a 12 bolt I am thinking 4:10 to give this thing some bottom end, but I am worried about running out of gear in 4th when spraying, you have any idea how much mph you can run in 4th gear with 4.10s? I figure eventually I will be going 115-119mph on motor and prolly about 130mph on spray, with 4.10s will it make it through in 4th or want 5th? I will be running 26X10 ET Streets. For right now it will be going around 108-110mph on motor and 121-123mph on spray so... I guess I will go 3.73 or 4.10s but would like 4.10s if possible. What you think?

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

depends on your rev limiter setting, but you never wanna hit 5th

BlueSix

Stock rev limiter with 26" tires with 4.10's is right at 114 mph.

Go with the 4.10's. If you need room for a higher mph then raise the rev limiter if it's still making power, or go to a bigger tire.

Vortech5300

How high can you safely raise the limiter? I know in my truck I went from 6k limiter to 6200 with just a HPP3. Whats the limiter on a 5.7l? about 6200? I thought about going to a 28x10 ET with the 4:10s to leave some room for mph, not to mention it will hook better with a taller tire(circumference). I am assuming the rev limiter can be done at the time of a good tune, say for the headers/intake/!cats etc. This stuff is gonna get expensive.LOL

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

stock vavle springs sucka and much over 6200 you start risking vavle float, if you wanna rev higher just put some 918 springs in it, 28 in tires are a good idea also

12secSS

iTrader: (30)

It is very possible. Our 2001 Camaro SS ran a 12.44@108 with a 1.68 60' (DA = 1800') with the only mods being Hooker LTs & ORY, TSP lid and a Vig3200 converter, on ET Streets and factory suspension (no aftermarket LCAs, PHR, TQ Arm etc ...). And it weighed 3580lbs, full race weight. With more mods, some tuning and suspension mods, it could have gone high 11s!

Vortech5300

Ya flame throwin, I know the autos will, I am asking about the M6s, we seem to lose 2-3 tenths out of the gate to the autos, no torque multiplication etc. Shitty 60's and 330's compared to the big stall autos

12secSS

iTrader: (30)

A buddy of mine (Nine Finger 02 Z28) ran a 12.5 @ 110 with just a lid and ET Drags (26x10x15) in slightly worse weather. With headers and some more bolt-ons he could have had 11s easily. Mind you, it was a hardtop low options Z28.

New Best Today At Fontana Posted by: Nine Finger 02 Z28

Vortech5300

Your buddys is a M6? He must have been leaving pretty hard. I am wondering if the rear end is gonna hold in mine. Don't have the scratch to replace it right now. I would love to go 12.70s as it sits right now with ET streets. It went 108mph on the 12.90s so I think with a decent 60', it will do a .70 if it don't bog or break. Was only going high 1.80s to low 1.90s at 12.90s-13.00s. Since then the car has been lowered, added LCRs, Random torque arm, and a screwy McLeod single, old school clutch. We'll see soon.

Jersey_TA

iTrader: (1)

I went 12.08 @ 115 in my auto with a stock stall. I have some wieght reduction though(no seats, mats, jack, spare, rear hatch divider), and I have BMR front k-member, upper/lower A-arms, with slicks and skinnies.

Stock shocks/springs launching at 1450 rpms. Race wieght is 3490 ish. One of the guys I know went 12.08 @ 117 in his M6, but he was gutted. I think it is possible given the right combo and weather.