Easiest way to pull the engine in a C5?
#1
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Easiest way to pull the engine in a C5?
Top or bottom? I'm inclined to think top will be easier, since I don't have a lift.
One head's already off, so I figure I might as well take off the other, too. Then hook the chains to two of the head bolts situated diagonally from each other? I'll take out the steering rack, cause it's about 1" in front of the pulley.
Maybe this is a dumb question, but will there be enough room if I leave the stuff for ABS in there? I hear you can only bleed the ABS with a special GM tool, so I'd like to avoid it. Especially because if the brakes don't work until I bleed them, I'd need to have the car flat-bedded to the dealer to have them bled.
I coulda sworn I read a post about pulling the engine on an F-Body that said that you don't need to break the seal on the AC system, I can't believe that'd be true of a C5. I figure I'll take the rad and AC condensor out right away. Should I take the water pump and AC compressor off too, or leave them on until the engine's out of the car (wondering if the extra weight on the front might actually be helpful for the CG).
Anybody know of a write-up online? Any and all advice is welcome.
Thanks,
Miles
One head's already off, so I figure I might as well take off the other, too. Then hook the chains to two of the head bolts situated diagonally from each other? I'll take out the steering rack, cause it's about 1" in front of the pulley.
Maybe this is a dumb question, but will there be enough room if I leave the stuff for ABS in there? I hear you can only bleed the ABS with a special GM tool, so I'd like to avoid it. Especially because if the brakes don't work until I bleed them, I'd need to have the car flat-bedded to the dealer to have them bled.
I coulda sworn I read a post about pulling the engine on an F-Body that said that you don't need to break the seal on the AC system, I can't believe that'd be true of a C5. I figure I'll take the rad and AC condensor out right away. Should I take the water pump and AC compressor off too, or leave them on until the engine's out of the car (wondering if the extra weight on the front might actually be helpful for the CG).
Anybody know of a write-up online? Any and all advice is welcome.
Thanks,
Miles
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
The front frame will be in the way if you try to pull it out the top unless you pull back the whole rear/tranny assembly.I don't think I would even try to pull it without a lift.We just take the engine out the bottom with the subframe.
#5
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Out the bottom, on a floor jack with a cradle that I made from steel flat bar.
I took the cup out of the floor jack and bolted the cradle in with one big bolt.
I put the car up high on some big jack stands. I unbolted the motor,
and used another jack to make the car do a wheelie and raise up about 6 inches, the motor slides right out.
Just mark the lines for the ABS and disconnect with a flare wrench.
You probably need to bleed some new fluid in there anyhow.
Go for it!!
I took the cup out of the floor jack and bolted the cradle in with one big bolt.
I put the car up high on some big jack stands. I unbolted the motor,
and used another jack to make the car do a wheelie and raise up about 6 inches, the motor slides right out.
Just mark the lines for the ABS and disconnect with a flare wrench.
You probably need to bleed some new fluid in there anyhow.
Go for it!!
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Originally Posted by racecar
How do you get a hold of it to pull from the top? Where do you bolt on a chain or puller plate? The back of the heads are under the windshield!!
You don't need to have your chains at the absolute front and back of the engine, they just need to be on opposite sides of the center of gravity. Load-levelers are only about $25 at Harbor Freight, and should make things a bit easier.
Thanks,
Miles